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axle shaft questions.

121
8
18
Location
Metairie, LA
I have some gear oil leaking from my passenger side front axle, on the axle side between the axle shaft and the u joint connecting to the spindle. I have only researched this in the tms, and never tore one apart(yet). The diagrams dont show a seal fitting around the axle shaft, although I am assuming I am missing something, as gear oil is very slowly leaking from this area. I have planned on doing the bearings anyway, now I guess I must dig in there deeper. Is this a seal issue? If so, what am I Not getting? The tm 34 and 34parts seem to just show the axle shaft sliding in and out of the axle.
 
121
8
18
Location
Metairie, LA
Got it, Thank You. Is that seal accessable by opening the diff cover then? Can I just pull out the axle shaft, open the diff. cover and put in a new one,
 

steve6x6x6

Well-known member
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37
48
Location
Winter Haven, florida
No, you will need to pull it down to get the two axles out then remove the cover and
the bearing caps to remove the carrier to reach the tube seals.
 
121
8
18
Location
Metairie, LA
Forgive me if I sound confused, but what exactly do I need to pull down? Once I get that far, doesnt the axle shaft slide out? I see in the tm where removing those bearing covers is explained. Does removing that cover then free the axle shaft?
 

steve6x6x6

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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48
Location
Winter Haven, florida
Tear down, remove locking hubs, remove the hub&rotor, remove the spindles, pull the axles out. Remove diff. cover, remove bearing caps, pull the differential carrier out. Now you have reached the tube seals behind the carrier bearings. Using a 1 1/2" shaft or pipe drive the tube seal into the center to remove. Using a large socket to drive the new seal in with the long shaft.
 
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121
8
18
Location
Metairie, LA
Got it. Thank You for your patience steve6x6x6. Ive had my m1009 sitting for about a month as I have been working crazy hrs. I never would have probably noticed the leak as quickly otherwise. Ill get after it.
 

85CUCVtom

Active member
712
25
28
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
Its not that bad of a job. I've never done it on a CUCV but I did it on my Jeep. Just make sure that if there are shims in the differential, they go back the same way they come out.
 

steve6x6x6

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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48
Location
Winter Haven, florida
On this axlel the shims are under the bearings. This 10 bolt front would have thick shim on each side of the carrier bearing (under the bearing cap), you must keep them right and left. Dana would call this housing savers.
 
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121
8
18
Location
Metairie, LA
I found the process in tm 9-2320-289-34 figure 6-5. During reassembly, the tm describes the use of a bearing preload gauge, bearing strap tool, prussian dye and a feeler gauge to assemble the differential properly and in spec. This is uncharted territory to me, but thats good, I love learning this vehicle. If thats what it takes, then I'll do it. That being said, in conversations with others about the subject, the process does seem much simpler. Is this an example of the tm making a mountain of a mole-hill, or are these tools and process absolutely vital?
 

gringeltaube

Staff Member
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Montevideo/Uruguay
(let me get this one, Steve...:))

Erik: by just pulling the whole carrier assy and putting it back in (all parts and shims nicely marked and clean!) you are 1) not "disturbing" the original ring & pinion adjustment; 2) not changing anything that would affect the bearing's preload. So you will not need any of the above mentioned special tools.

Now if you had to replace any of the bearings, or even a ring & pinion set, that would be a different story.


Side note: ideally one would use a "housing- or case spreader" to easily get the carrier in and out. In your case, two good-sized pry bars will do the trick, also.


G.
 
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