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What do you guys replace gov.lock with?

rsh4364

Active member
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Location
greensprings ,ohio
Looking to upgrade frnt. and rear diffs.with 3:42 gears,and thinking about limited slip unit in front,and a new locker in rear,Its a 85 M-1009 with 10 bolt 8.5 with 28 spline axles,Whats a good rear locker that is pretty much a bolt in ? Also any advice on frnt. diff.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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galveston/Texas
Why upgrade a 10 bolt? If you abuse it to the point that the gov lock breaks, you probably need to upgrade the axle.
I would put my money into a D60 and 14bolt instead.
 

Mainsail

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What are our options up front? I don't mind the gov lock in the rear for the type of mild 4WD that I do, but the open diff up front bothers me. What's a good inexpensive fix for it, if any?
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
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Location
galveston/Texas
I do not beleive there is a cheap option. for the front you really need a locker you can switch on and off so an air or electric locker would be your choice. electric can be cheaper since you do not have to add a compressor. I beleive ARB and eaton both make a locker for the 10 bolt but I think they start around $700 plus install cost.
 

Mainsail

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Look on Rock Auto. Part# SLGM8528. My brother just got one for his.
$250 with shipping!
This is very intriguing. Just a couple of questions for anyone who has used the Spartan locker before-

Is that part number for the M1009 front diff? I see a few youtube videos but mostly for M1008s
With the front hubs unlocked, and in 2WD, is it even noticeable?
If one's experience with diffs were little more than pulling the cover off and putting it back on (successfully), would this be difficult to install?
 
225
1
18
Location
edmonton ,alberta
the lunch box lockers (Spartan , lockright etc) are pretty effective.functionally they are very much like a Detroit locker,just not nearly as strong.they act just the same as a Detroit under power...so, don't put one in the front axle.they are far to positive under power,and you'll have all sorts of fun trying to steer...in other words,you can't.keep the positive dog clutch style lockers in the rear axle...use a clutch or gear type in front.tru-tracs work excellent in front,just a bit pricey.
 

Big69C20 Toy

New member
10
0
1
Location
Roscoe, IL
For the front you can run a truetrac by eaton. I have one in mine and it is quite nice. With the Detroit in he back and the true trac in front it seems pretty stout. Not a d60 for beefy level just due to equipment sizes and all.

As was said a locker in the front won't behave well at all and will want to force you straight all the time.
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,487
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113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
For the front you can run a truetrac by eaton. I have one in mine and it is quite nice. With the Detroit in he back and the true trac in front it seems pretty stout. Not a d60 for beefy level just due to equipment sizes and all.

As was said a locker in the front won't behave well at all and will want to force you straight all the time.
.
$250 was a maybe, $400 is out. I guess I'll just stick with the open dif
 

rsh4364

Active member
1,372
15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
I plan on adding a factory type posi unit to my front end,they put 8.5s in everything,look for 72-81 z-28s and trans ams,80s buick grand nationals and olds 442s,lots of perf. cars had 8.5s,there are lots of guys running 600-700hp thru an 8.5. at the strip,
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
22
20
Location
CT
Why upgrade a 10 bolt? If you abuse it to the point that the gov lock breaks, you probably need to upgrade the axle.
I would put my money into a D60 and 14bolt instead.
Well said. Toss that 6 lug junk and upgrade. It's no fun watching your wheel AND axle shaft pass you on the highway and the 6 lug wheel studs are not nearly strong enough for anything but stock.
The 1 ton stuff goes for a few bucks but you can buy a late 70s early 80's whole rustbucket truck for a few hundred bucks
. Nothing wrong with a D44 up front as long as it's 8 lug.
 

Mercunimog404

Banned
352
0
0
Location
Carson City/Nevada
Well said. Toss that 6 lug junk and upgrade. It's no fun watching your wheel AND axle shaft pass you on the highway and the 6 lug wheel studs are not nearly strong enough for anything but stock.
The 1 ton stuff goes for a few bucks but you can buy a late 70s early 80's whole rustbucket truck for a few hundred bucks
. Nothing wrong with a D44 up front as long as it's 8 lug.
There isnt much difference between a 1/2 ton Dana 44 and a 3/4 ton Dana 44. The brakes are bigger. That's about it. The actual Dana 44 is the same.
 
Last edited:

acesneights1

Member
1,449
22
20
Location
CT
There isnt much difference between a 1/2 ton Dana 44 and a 3/4 ton Dana 44. The brakes are bigger. That's about it. The actual Dana 44 is the same.
Yeah but the rotors and 8 lug wheel studs are MUCH stronger. The base axle is exactly the same. You can actually use the rotors and backing plates off an 8 lug. IIRC the spindles and bearings were the same. ( 8 ) 9/16 stud vs (6)7/16.
Not to mention the GM14 bolt is practically indestructible. The Dana 44 was a pretty tough diff. I would take that over a 10 bolt anyday although when talking front Diffs atleast with the front on a 10 bolt no worries about the wheel and axle falling off...
 
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