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re-wiring my MEP-004a for different voltages, including single phase
- Thread starter sewerzuk
- Start date
(Sewerzuk)
Just wanted to thank you again for the help. the bar was under the reconnection board. Mission accomplished, just tested the unit, and everything seems to work properly. Do you know where i can get a replacement throttle cable for a 004a, mine is on it's last leg.
Just wanted to thank you again for the help. the bar was under the reconnection board. Mission accomplished, just tested the unit, and everything seems to work properly. Do you know where i can get a replacement throttle cable for a 004a, mine is on it's last leg.
sewerzuk
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You don't need to add the resistors; their function is just to bring the meter readings and safety trip setpoints back into spec. Without installing them, the meters will read too high...not a problem unless you need the full rated capacity of the generator.
212sparky
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Pm gimpyrobb. I believe he had some for sale.
rdspal88
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define what you mean by "deflection" the motor did not labor or anything strange...
Since I burnt up my multimeter two weeks (helping a friend with a home project) I have been without its services so I went today and purchased another. I cranked up my unit after moving the two secondary wires X121EG16N & X12P16N off T12 to T11 I find there is no voltage being produced from the genset. So I must have burnt something up in all my efforts to get the guages to work or the genset stopped producing juice thus the guages may work but just nothing coming from the generator...???
The only thing I have done in the past two weeks is move d X8E16B from T8 to T12 cranked the unit but saw no effect on the guages so I stopped the genset and returned the X8E16B back to T8. Being blind for the last two weeks I can't say when/if the generator quit production during that period, but I do know that prior to my meter dying the genset was putting out 120/208 to a breaker panel I hooked up. So what would you suggest I look for and/or replace to get the generator back producing?
Since I burnt up my multimeter two weeks (helping a friend with a home project) I have been without its services so I went today and purchased another. I cranked up my unit after moving the two secondary wires X121EG16N & X12P16N off T12 to T11 I find there is no voltage being produced from the genset. So I must have burnt something up in all my efforts to get the guages to work or the genset stopped producing juice thus the guages may work but just nothing coming from the generator...???
The only thing I have done in the past two weeks is move d X8E16B from T8 to T12 cranked the unit but saw no effect on the guages so I stopped the genset and returned the X8E16B back to T8. Being blind for the last two weeks I can't say when/if the generator quit production during that period, but I do know that prior to my meter dying the genset was putting out 120/208 to a breaker panel I hooked up. So what would you suggest I look for and/or replace to get the generator back producing?
sewerzuk
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By "deflection" I was asking if you saw any movement on any of the meters during field flash...
If you're concerned that you might have burned something up, remove the jumper wire and re-install it between t12 and the neutral bus (just the way it was wired when it was stock). Return all of the smaller leads back to their original positions so the generator is returned back to 100% stock. Fire it up and see what you get.
Wire movements are much easier to do on the -006a than on the -004/-005a. Should only take you a few minutes...
If you're concerned that you might have burned something up, remove the jumper wire and re-install it between t12 and the neutral bus (just the way it was wired when it was stock). Return all of the smaller leads back to their original positions so the generator is returned back to 100% stock. Fire it up and see what you get.
Wire movements are much easier to do on the -006a than on the -004/-005a. Should only take you a few minutes...
rdspal88
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Sewerzuk,
I did return all wiring back to stock positions and tied the jumper between T13 and T12. What I did see was the hertz guage moved up about three small bar increments I think around 48 hertz. I increased the RPMs and it did not move any more up when I returned the RPM's downward it did not change the guage. Plus Amp metered did display a minor quivere but no movement on voltage or percent power. I went an purchased another meter and checked the breaker panel I had hooked up...no volts coming to the panel nor on T1/T2/T3. I'm figuring I screwed something up just don't know where to begin...You coming to Arkansas anyway soon
I did return all wiring back to stock positions and tied the jumper between T13 and T12. What I did see was the hertz guage moved up about three small bar increments I think around 48 hertz. I increased the RPMs and it did not move any more up when I returned the RPM's downward it did not change the guage. Plus Amp metered did display a minor quivere but no movement on voltage or percent power. I went an purchased another meter and checked the breaker panel I had hooked up...no volts coming to the panel nor on T1/T2/T3. I'm figuring I screwed something up just don't know where to begin...You coming to Arkansas anyway soon
sewerzuk
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The frequency meter will not read accurately until you have voltage; what you were seeing was not anything of note...Sewerzuk,
I did return all wiring back to stock positions and tied the jumper between T13 and T12. What I did see was the hertz guage moved up about three small bar increments I think around 48 hertz. I increased the RPMs and it did not move any more up when I returned the RPM's downward it did not change the guage. Plus Amp metered did display a minor quivere but no movement on voltage or percent power. I went an purchased another meter and checked the breaker panel I had hooked up...no volts coming to the panel nor on T1/T2/T3. I'm figuring I screwed something up just don't know where to begin...You coming to Arkansas anyway soon
The ammeter and load meter won't read anything unless there is a load on the set.
Since you don't see any voltage during field flash, you probably don't have a major problem. Field flash occurs separately from the exciter system...there are only a few components that could have gone bad. Worst case is bad field windings, but you would have noticed something if you burned them up...smoke, smell, sparks, etc. Honestly, I can't see how your single phase mod could have caused this to happen.
No, I'm not coming to Arkansas! But maybe I can point you in the right direction...
Just to be 100% sure we are on the same page here:
You have the set running at "about" normal operating speed. You hold the start switch up in start and see no movement on the set voltmeter (or your handheld voltmeter when attached to the convenience outlet, or the upstream side of the main breaker)?
Are there any lights lit on the alarm panel?
Any other abnormal symptoms?
rdspal88
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Sewerzuk,
"you have the set running about normal" - yes it was running at about normal op speed
"You hold the start switch up in start and see no movement"- correct I held the start switch up between 10-20 seconds and saw no movement in either the voltmeter or hand meter. I tested the convenience outlets and found no voltage. Not tried reading upstream of the main breaker(where would this access point be?)
"Are there any lights lit on the alarm panel" no lights on the alarm panel
"Any other abnormal symptoms?" nope nothing that I have noticed...I did notice that when I close the circuit it has no effect on the engine speed whatsoever
I was just kidding about coming to Arkansas, we have friend living in OR we drove out to visit them last year...it's a long ways out there!
"you have the set running about normal" - yes it was running at about normal op speed
"You hold the start switch up in start and see no movement"- correct I held the start switch up between 10-20 seconds and saw no movement in either the voltmeter or hand meter. I tested the convenience outlets and found no voltage. Not tried reading upstream of the main breaker(where would this access point be?)
"Are there any lights lit on the alarm panel" no lights on the alarm panel
"Any other abnormal symptoms?" nope nothing that I have noticed...I did notice that when I close the circuit it has no effect on the engine speed whatsoever
I was just kidding about coming to Arkansas, we have friend living in OR we drove out to visit them last year...it's a long ways out there!
captain
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I just reconfigured my 004a over to single phase. I just had one question regarding the ground that I did not see elsewhere. I removed the ground from L0. It looks to be X13BN. The ground stud has 2 other smaller gauge wires. One that runs up to the right near the reconnection board and another that goes off to the left. Is everything done right or do I need to move either of those 2 wires? Is there any reason not to run the jumper wire from T12 to T2 on the bottom of the board? On the top the stud is only long enough to get 3/4 of the nut on. Thanks again for all the help. The reconfiguration was very fast and easy.
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captain
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I'm a little stumped here. The gen ran fine before the single phase conversion. I just tried it out for the first time since I converted it. Starts up and runs fine but will not produce power in "run" on the gauges or at the convenience outlet. If I hold it in "start" it produces power at the gauge and at the convenience outlets. I have been looking around on here the past few hours but did not find any answers yet. Any ideas?
Thanks
Thanks
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R Racing
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Not sure I'm understanding your question? Are you questioning the fact that u you had to flash the field ?
captain
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no. It only produces power while holding the switch in start. If I let go the voltage drops off at both the gauges and the convenience outlet. It does not matter if I hold the switch in start for 10 seconds or 30 seconds. Before the conversion it would only take 5 or so seconds of holding the switch in start to get the field to flash and oil pressure to come up before I could let it go and put a load on the unit. So what I'm trying to figure out is did I do something wrong in the single phase conversion or did something die since I ran it the last time last year? Or since you brought it up should it take more then 30 seconds to flash the field and maintain voltage? I did not want to leave it running incase I was causing more damage.
R Racing
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Now I understand !! My reading comprehension needs a jump start some days .
captain
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I checked the reconnection board for about the 12th time. Everything is moved per the video in post 1. I will have to assume then since it worked before the conversion that the other wires are correct and this is a new problem. I will start a new thread for this. Thanks.
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smurph
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Here is a little procedure that I wrote up while converting my 005s. I wanted my 005s to be able to be quickly switched between single and three phase. Single phase for emergency home power and 3 phase to operate my M934 van body with. I use a toggle switch and 1 jumper to convert from three to single phase and back. The one time mods section are wires that can be moved and left in place for either single phase or three phase operation. The toggle switch is 4PDT and is used to switch X8A16B back and forth between T3 and T8. It also cuts in the resistors for single phase op with the the other 3 poles.
It may help you to diagnose which wire is in the wrong place.
One time mods:
1. Cut the bus bar (connecting N, T10, T11, and T12) between T11 and T12.
2. X8HH16B from T8 to T7 - can remain for 1 or 3 op.
3. X12EG16N from T12 to T11 - can remain for 1 or 3 op.
Single Phase 240/120 (L1, L3, and L0 neutral, L2 unconnected):
1. Install #6 gage jumper between T12 and T2.
2. X8A16B from T8 to T3.
Three Phase 208/120 (L1, L2, L3, and L0 neutral):
1. Install #6 gage jumper between T11 and T12.
2. X8A16B from T3 to T8.
Three Phase 416/240 (L1, L2, L3, and L0 neutral):
1. Install #6 gage jumper between T11 and T12.
2. X8A16B from T3 to T8.
3. Position reconnect board accordingly.
It may help you to diagnose which wire is in the wrong place.
One time mods:
1. Cut the bus bar (connecting N, T10, T11, and T12) between T11 and T12.
2. X8HH16B from T8 to T7 - can remain for 1 or 3 op.
3. X12EG16N from T12 to T11 - can remain for 1 or 3 op.
Single Phase 240/120 (L1, L3, and L0 neutral, L2 unconnected):
1. Install #6 gage jumper between T12 and T2.
2. X8A16B from T8 to T3.
Three Phase 208/120 (L1, L2, L3, and L0 neutral):
1. Install #6 gage jumper between T11 and T12.
2. X8A16B from T3 to T8.
Three Phase 416/240 (L1, L2, L3, and L0 neutral):
1. Install #6 gage jumper between T11 and T12.
2. X8A16B from T3 to T8.
3. Position reconnect board accordingly.
captain
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I see you moved X8HH16B from T8 to T7. I moved it from T8 to T11 as in the video. Was that incorrect and should I have moved it to T7?