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LT. Dan M35a2 Modification Thread

welldigger

Active member
2,602
16
38
Location
Benton LA
Ouch. That sucks on the cracked knuckle. I had a busted hub on my truck. Really screwed up my hub flip project. I know your pain.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Yeah thanks guys. I appreciate the compliments. She's a real sob sometimes. But thanks to a good friend I'll have a knuckle tomorrow at some point.

Also just been getting tired of some of the crap here. There is a awesome fb group. The guys there are great. I have made quite a few new friends and all pretty local to me. There are about 4 guys that we all talk on a daily bases. I have been posting there in depth alot more.

The hope of having it done by 4th of July isn't going to happen I don't think. I'm shooting for reading fair on the first week of August. Atleast if it's running and mechanically sound and not painted I'll be happy. There is a private mud bog in September I plan on making and the gilbert show the week after and then the fall rally. Plus I plan on doing alot of wheeling at Rausch this winter. Then in the spring I'm going to locking up the front and rear axles and winches hopefully. It will get there. **** my truck will be practically new once it's done.

Oh another thing I got rid of those stupid axle vents I'm running two vent lines to the air box. One line will be from the air pack and both axles and the other will be from the fuel tank. Then once I get time I'll figure out how I'm going to vent the transmission and transfer case.

I also have this crazy idea (and it might actually work) for moving the transfer case back a smidgen and putting a np205 transfer case in between the transmission and transfer case instead of the little driveshaft that way I'll have 3 ratios. Pretty much 1 to 1 - 2 to 1 - and 4 to 1..... Now that would be freakin awesome
 

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bonedoc

New member
502
1
0
Location
Bangor, PA
Hang in there Dan, I know it is frustrating and I'm sure I can speak for most of us about it just not going fast enough. Unfortunately all of us are working on trucks that are generally 40+ years old and lacking in the maintenance and care department. Truck looks great and your efforts will be rewarded when the truck is complete and you have a healthy dependable runner and not a bandaided timebomb.
 

barefootin

Member
271
0
16
Location
South East PA
Bubby, If it is the front drive (t-case to axle) shaft universal joints you are looking for;

5-1410X Dana Spicer 1410 U Joint Non Greasable 5-801X
51410X, 5801X, 5-801X, BC3Z4635B, F81Z4635AB

D1 BEARING CAP DIA:1.188
D2 BEARING CAP DIA:1.188
G1 SNAP RING DIM: 4.188
G2 SNAP RING DIM: 4.188
OEM MFG:SPICER
OEM SERIES:1410

I've also used part number 330 (4.1875") which cross reference to the 1410 (4.1880") and available at local Advance Auto parts stores for around $28 for the heavy duty version. You will still need a press or big hammer to get them in on a good shaft. They are nice and tight.....
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Yeah i knew the front axle was a 1410 but I need the u joints for the rear driveshaft from transfer case to front drive axle.

I still haven't forgotten about that oil. If you can give me a few more weeks maybe I'll be able to bring the deuce to get it.

So I spent the day pressure washing everything the truck is now ready for reassembly. The whole front end and underneath of the truck and rear frame rails were all pressure washed. I also got a knuckle today from a great guy. So I'm all set I just need the axle lock washers and waiting on a brake line so I can bleed all the lines.
 

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barefootin

Member
271
0
16
Location
South East PA
Is this the u joint your talking about?

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...ts-u-joint-330/10086907-P?searchTerm=330+moog

If so $16 plus I'll get $5 off and it's lifetime warranty I can handle that lol
Yep, My local store had two Moog choices, both grease-able and one was a heavy duty.

The oil is still here waiting for you, but it might cost you a 9.00x20 or two :)

I don't know if you have this cross reference link, it is helpful. The U-joints are on here as well. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?82427-Deuce-Parts-Quick-Reference-Spreadsheet. Below is the 5-115X and its cross reference numbers. 332 should be available locally as well.

This should be the tab type;
Neapco 3-0055 U-Joint 1500 Series
Please use the online catalog to select your part numbers

30055, 5-115X, 5115X, 15DS68, 332, 201SJ73, 647869R91, 608194, 2378954, B2TZ4635A, 952371, 73028862

MFG/SERIES:SPICER 1500
A1 LOCK UP:4.55
A2 LOCK UP:4.55
B1 BEARING CAP DIAMETER:1.560
B2 BEARING CAP DIAMETER:1.560
BEARING TYPE:ROUND W/PLATE
CONVERSION:
LUBE FITTING:W/ 1 Lube Fitting In Cross
 
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862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
I could find a 332 moog on advance autos website. I want to get a u joint out first and measure to confirm because there is like 5 threads on here that all have a different u joint for the driveshaft
 

barefootin

Member
271
0
16
Location
South East PA
I could find a 332 moog on advance autos website. I want to get a u joint out first and measure to confirm because there is like 5 threads on here that all have a different u joint for the driveshaft
Sounds wise to measure. All except for the front shaft were tight on mine, so I haven't had to replace any of the capped ones yet. The oil will be here for you :)
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
I'm considering using the tandem driveshaft for my bobber driveshaft. It uses the same 1410 u joint like the front axle. I also found out that a moog 295 is the same as the 330 but is a moog super joint. They also have them in stock at advance auto for $20. Idk why but they are supposed to be much stronger then the 330.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
So the front axle is done I just have to adjust the brakes. Then I'm going to run my remote reservior and bleed the system. I have to run the fuel tank vent line and tidy up a few more little things and I'm going for a test drive tomorrow. Wish me luck!!!!!

I also got the new u bolt plates made just have to do a little welding and I also got my water pressure gauge in for the water injection system.

Oh and one piece boots are a mother f'er to put in by yourself lol but I got her done. All new brake lines too
 

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862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
In the one picture you can see I put a grease zerk in the top of the knuckle. I didn't pack my knuckles full of grease because I don't think it's needed other then to make a mess. This way I can put a few squirms from time to time to get the thrust washers and all should be good
 
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