Issues with my New Truck.

[Rustyshackelford]

Issues with my New Truck. Update pg 6 with new questions.

Hi
im new to the scene.

Item #1
When I was working on my m1009 today I noticed this cut cable coming out from under this black shroud. Can someone help me understand what it is? (Pic attached)

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

That is the glow plug resistor. It's possible it has been bypassed, is there a wire running from the relay to the 12v buss bar on the firewall?
Like pictured in post #4 of this thread.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?121398-GP-Resistor-Bank-Bypass

 

[Warthog]

Be careful as the end of the wire is live with 24v. A big fireworks show can happen if it ever touches anything.

You should disconnect the wire from the other side of the resistor pack (black shroud)

 

[number9er]

You might as well remove the whole resistor pack. No use carrying dead weight around. Disconnect it from the 24v bus bar first though. Best to unhook the batteries before you touch a thing.

 

[cucvrus]

Why not just hook it back up the way it was supposed to be? My opinion. Worked for me for 20+ years without fail.

 

[Westech]

Dasie chain effect on the glow plugs that is why some bypass it.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

That's simple: There are no benefits to keeping it that way unless you see a need to get jumped from other military vehicles.

There are many downsides to it.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Slow to start after sitting

Item #2

Hi all thanks in advance for your help on this one. My m1009 starts great if it's been running, but if I let it sit for a few hours or overnight, it is slow to start and sometimes I need to use starting fluid. Once it's running it runs great.

Is this a known problem and are there any fixes?

 

[Westech]

Have you inspected your glow plugs? Are some burnt out?
Are the batteries in good shape?
I would start there and also replace the Glow plug temp sender on the rear of the drive side head.

 

[Westech]

You are still able to get jumped with the nato plug.

 

[eme411]

keep using the starting fluid if you want to replace your engine , sounds like your glow plug system is a mess , get the TM's and start reading , since someone else has made a mess of the truck you will need to figure out what they played with,

 

[brasco]

Hi all thanks in advance for your help on this one. My m1009 starts great if it's been running, but if I let it sit for a few hours or overnight, it is slow to start and sometimes I need to use starting fluid. Once it's running it runs great.

Is this a known problem and are there any fixes?

I have a similar issue with my M931A2... it appears to be losing prime in the fuel system. If it sits for a few days and I prime the fuel system before tryng to start, it starts right away. Otherwise I need to crank for a long time to get the thing to start. I'm guessing there is a way to prime a M1009 too.

 

[Skinny]

Based on your resistor bypass, someone did a hack job. I would avoid using any fluid starting assist until you understand proper GP operation and how to completely disable it if using ether. It can safely be done IF you understand how it all works. Like it was mentioned, get the system properly converted to 12v operation without the resistor, go through it for maintenance, then see what you get without using ether.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

The truck turns over great and runs great once it's started. The problem seems to be the presence of fuel after it sits. One squirt of starter fluid and she fires right up.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

I have a similar issue with my M931A2... it appears to be losing prime in the fuel system. If it sits for a few days and I prime the fuel system before tryng to start, it starts right away. Otherwise I need to crank for a long time to get the thing to start. I'm guessing there is a way to prime a M1009 too.

how do you prime it?

 

[CUCVLOVER]

You might need to change the lift pump. If I remember correctly it has a small valve to hold full pressure so its not so hard to start.
My dad has an 83 GMC that has a 350 SBC and a edelbroc carb he said that if you pump the throttle a couple times it makes it spray fuel down its throat for easier starts. The only reason this works is because of that little valve in the lift pump and from what I've read the pumps are the same. Its possible I'm wrong so don't shoot me if I am.

 

[Skinny]

The valving inside the LP just keeps the system primed and is part of the design of the pump itself. Prime could be lost realistically anywhere you you have an o-ring or rubber hose that is why you want to replace as a precaution instead of as a repair.

A carb squirts fuel into the engine when you pump the pedal because of the accelerator pump. Most auto carbs have this so when you romp the gas, you don't get a sudden surge of air without fuel which would cause the engine to bog. That valve injects fuel at the same time. It just so happens that during a cold start, you typically are giving it one full pedal pump which sets the choke and squirts fuel in as well.

 

[brasco]

On the M931A2 there is a "vent" on the IP that can be cracked open with a 10mm wrench... then use the manual pump on the engine driven lift pump...pump it by hand until fuel comes out at the IP vent and close. Check your TM for a similar procedure.

 

[Warthog]

This is a CUCV discussion not a M939 series discussion.

 

[Skinny]

The OP's second post was discussing a starting issue related to GP's and using fluid. I'm confused, are you looking for the OP to start a second thread? If so, please advise so I can delete my posts.