Looking For Opinions On This Transfer Switch

[CT-Mike]

So I have finally decided to pull the trigger on a -003 or -803 in an upcoming auction.

I am am wondering if this transfer switch setup would be sufficient for one of these 10KW generators:

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-EGD-Q510KIT/p13512.html

Would I be better off just going with a 200A service rated DPDT and do manual load management?

I have a 200A service with two heat pumps, two fridges, well pump, and a chest freezer for large loads. Heat and hot water are via a propqne boiler so minimal current draw there.

I also have a hot tub but I know that I would have to seriously step up the generator to be able to power that monster (7.5 KW total heater load and 3 2.5 HP pumps).

Thanks,

Mike

 

[m-35tom]

for about the same money you might consider a 805. 100 amp available, fuel consumption about double at 1.8 gph

 

[CT-Mike]

I'm not against an 805, it would be much easier for the wife if she loses power in the middle of the night when I'm at work.

I guess I will have to see how the outcome of this auction goes.

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

Im wondering why load management is an issue as your just switching where the power comes in from I think of it as a water valve in all your doing is diverting the flow of power from power line feed to generator feed right?

So whats wrong with just using the same breakers that the powerline feed made use of down stream from where the power comes in ie just past the --< split

 

[CT-Mike]

Bunkerbuilder,

If I go with an -803, load management is clearly an issue. It would be easiest to install a 200A DPDT manual transfer switch between my meter and service panel and use the existing breakers.

But if you look at what I listed for loads (forgot to mention electric range and dryer), there is no way for a 10KW genny to power all of that.

By load management I meant manually stripping off loads like the range, dryer, hot tub, and maybe one of the heat pumps before transferring to generator power.

 

[m-35tom]

for that matter, a 806 is also a valid choice as they are pretty cheap and no load issues.

 

[DieselAddict]

If you think the generator will be used by someone that doesn't understand load management then absolutely put in a generator load center that properly segregates what the generator can support.

 

[m-35tom]

the beauty of a MEP is that it will just drop the load

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

Well no not power everything at the same time.


You Can't Plug in a 2 with a 6.

This automatically came to mind.

http://ia.media-imdb.com/images/M/M...MDU4OTU2MjE@._V1_SY264_CR87,0,178,264_AL_.jpg

http://m.imdb.com/title/tt0592812/

Bunkerbuilder,

If I go with an -803, load management is clearly an issue. It would be easiest to install a 200A DPDT manual transfer switch between my meter and service panel and use the existing breakers.

But if you look at what I listed for loads (forgot to mention electric range and dryer), there is no way for a 10KW genny to power all of that.

By load management I meant manually stripping off loads like the range, dryer, hot tub, and maybe one of the heat pumps before transferring to generator power.

 

[Floridianson]

http://www.interlockkit.com/

 

[PeterD]

So I have finally decided to pull the trigger on a -003 or -803 in an upcoming auction.

I am am wondering if this transfer switch setup would be sufficient for one of these 10KW generators:

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-EGD-Q510KIT/p13512.html

Would I be better off just going with a 200A service rated DPDT and do manual load management?

I have a 200A service with two heat pumps, two fridges, well pump, and a chest freezer for large loads. Heat and hot water are via a propqne boiler so minimal current draw there.

I also have a hot tub but I know that I would have to seriously step up the generator to be able to power that monster (7.5 KW total heater load and 3 2.5 HP pumps).

Thanks,

Mike

I have a similar transfer switch (I have both a 10 circuit and a 6 circuit one, and use both) and I'd strongly recommend a proper transfer switch over this system. Yes, it works, but I'm not 100% comfortable with it now that it is done. In fact, I now have a proper transfer switch, and when I do a rewire of my circuit box next summer (I hope) I will include the new transfer switch (and a conversion of my MEP-004 to single phase) and have a setup that is better.

 

[rhurey]

For the heat pumps... is the defrost heat supplied by propane?

 

[DieselAddict]

During emergencies you can disconnect the defrost and emergency heat coils so you don't OL the generator during the defrost cycles. The HP will blow cold air during the defrost cycle but won't be harmed.

 

[m-35tom]

Well no not power everything at the same time.


You Can't Plug in a 2 with a 6.

This automatically came to mind.

http://ia.media-imdb.com/images/M/M...MDU4OTU2MjE@._V1_SY264_CR87,0,178,264_AL_.jpg

http://m.imdb.com/title/tt0592812/

Bb, that is called load management. best not to need to do it.

 

[m-35tom]

http://www.interlockkit.com/

a cheap way to do transfer, but does nothing for load management.

 

[m16ty]

I've got a 2,000 sq ft house 200amp service, gas heat, gas hot water, gas dryer. Everything else is electric.

Just for fun, I hooked up the MEP-003a, turned every light in the house on, and turned on the range. The fridge and the deep freeze were also running. The MEP handled it fine. I don't think I need to worry about load management.

When warm weather gets here I'm going to try a test with the A/C. I suspect I may have to do some managing then but it will be something as simple as not to run the range when the A/C is on.

 

[rhurey]

During emergencies you can disconnect the defrost and emergency heat coils so you don't OL the generator during the defrost cycles. The HP will blow cold air during the defrost cycle but won't be harmed.

Yeah. but I gotta open the air handler to do that. Our fan and one bank of heat coils share a circuit. Not a wife compatible option.

 

[DieselAddict]

Yeah. but I gotta open the air handler to do that. Our fan and one bank of heat coils share a circuit. Not a wife compatible option.

Install a switch you can reach on the outside. The coil side of the relay is low current.

 

[CT-Mike]

For the heat pumps... is the defrost heat supplied by propane?

I don't use the heat pumps for heat in the winter time. I have large pellet stoves upstairs and down to handle winter heat. I am more concerned about having AC in the summer - SWMBO has severe asthma and heat and humidity is a trigger for her.

 

[Ratch]

I would not use that switch, the 50amp, with a 10kw genset for my house. It is a good way to control load, but with a 10kw generator that can overload to 13 or so, I'd use a 100amp switch minimum and maximize what you can get from it without tripping a breaker or potentially overheating the switch.
If you're willing to rewire your emergency circuits to that switch, you could get a standard service rated switch and a separate emergency panel. So you'd split your utility feed to two panels. One is normal loads, the other emergency. Put the switch between the split and the emergency panel.
I don't know if you can do all that for under $660, but used equipment is not bad if it works well.