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m35a2 advice needed

CUCVLOVER

Active member
I have found a duece I like and I had a couple questions and I was hoping y'all could help.

1: the ad says its a 1954 AM general m35a2 with the white LTD 465 multi fuel and whistler turbo. My question is, is this even possible did Am general even build these trucks in 54?
2: The owner says the air pack needs to be rebuilt and they just bypassed it but it still has brakes they are just weak. How much brakes can the truck really have without the air pack?
3: how long does it take to swap out a air pack and what is involved? I figured I could just swap it out with a good one and drive it home so....
4: what should I really scrutinize if I go look at the truck?

I'll try to ad some pics.

Thank you all in advance.
 

m16ty

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1. No. It can either be a AM General or a 1954. It can't be both. AM general didn't even come to be until the early '70s.
2. Brakes can still work, they just won't have any boost power. You'll have to press the pedal really hard to get much braking.
3. It's not terrible but it is pretty tight in there.
 

WILDBOY6X6

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Hi yup m16ty is right ,in 54 it would be a reo with a gas eng and single wheels I have one an M34, if its an M35 it will still have gas eng.
 

m16ty

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It's definitely a A2 but it still could be a '54 model that has been upgraded to a A2. Best way to tell is by the frame VIN.

There are some other body differences to tell if the truck was originally a gasser. The front inner fenders is one. Does the truck have a air-shift or sprag transfer case?

Also, for some reason somebody has swapped the drivers and passenger seat with one another.
 

WILDBOY6X6

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Hi yup that is a M35A2 turbo eng it will be late 60's to mid 70's or so depending on builder.
The older ones were Kiser jeep corp. newer might be AM gen , cant tell a lot about pack.
The truck will stop with out air just will be harder to do, as long as fluid is full.
The 1st thing to do is check the fluid, if master cyl is empty then plan on big brake work.
 

Jeepsinker

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I'm betting on a 74' am general. You can tell the inner fenders are later style. They could have been swapped, no telling really. Who cares? As long as the title is clear and the numbers match I'd buy it. I've seen much worse. Airpack looks like any other airpack that has been under a deuce for any length of time. It is the long style. They aren't bad to change. 2-3 bolts and a couple of lines. I wouldn't drive it home though. If they won't fix the airpack, I bet money that the wheel cylinders are in dire need of attention too, as well as the hubs. Have it towed or find a friend with a towbar and a deuce or 5 ton to help you get it home.
 

rustystud

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Yes, defiantly a later model. I have 2 early M35's and the inner fenders are almost vertical. I also would have it towed home. Even if the brakes still functioned, without the air-pac I wouldn't trust it on the open road. All it takes is one idiot jumping in front of you and you having to make an emergency stop and that is "all she wrote !" Can you say law-suit !
 

nchittendon

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That looks to be the one for sale all over facebook in Missouri. I think it was now down to $3500? Doesn't seem like a horrible truck for that price. The Facebook post says something about the blinkers not working either.
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
M16ty. It is air shift from what I was told. I'll ask for the frame Vin.

Wildboy. What type of big brake work?

Jeepsinker. How bad could the wheel cylinders be and what about the hubs? Why would the rear brakes be hooked up and not the front?

Rustystud.
I was thinking about having it hauled home I don't like the idea of weak iffy brakes.

Nchittenendon.
I found it on Craigslist in Missouri. Ya it says the blinkers are not working that's another reason Ill think I'll have it towed or put on a low boy.

The ad says it has a 12 ft bed should I keep looking for a longer one?
Also does anyone have the dimensions on one? Like overall height, weight, length, width?
If its not noticeable I'm a complete newb when it comes to these. I'll talk to the guy later today and I'll ask some more questions and report back here.
Thank you all.
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
Here are some more pics.nopics
As far as I know those polls in the bed are not there anymore.
 

Attachments

porkysplace

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M16ty. It is air shift from what I was told. I'll ask for the frame Vin.

Wildboy. What type of big brake work?

Jeepsinker. How bad could the wheel cylinders be and what about the hubs? Why would the rear brakes be hooked up and not the front?

Rustystud.
I was thinking about having it hauled home I don't like the idea of weak iffy brakes.

Nchittenendon.
I found it on Craigslist in Missouri. Ya it says the blinkers are not working that's another reason Ill think I'll have it towed or put on a low boy.

The ad says it has a 12 ft bed should I keep looking for a longer one?
Also does anyone have the dimensions on one? Like overall height, weight, length, width?
If its not noticeable I'm a complete newb when it comes to these. I'll talk to the guy later today and I'll ask some more questions and report back here.
Thank you all.
The dimensions are covered in the -10 TM ( which should be read before you look for a truck )or easily found with a search .
 

Warthog

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"Holely" cow. That truck has some rust issues.

Things I see:
airshift transfer
heater - some duct work is missing
box and springer seat
standard bed
turbo - can't tell is C or D
winch - big plus
bad top
a lot of rust that has been painted over.

While it will be a good project/messing around truck it would not be my first choice. The price is okay.

With the condition of the truck I would suspect that the brakes need a total rebuild. Each wheel/hub will need to removed and all the brakes shoes inspected. I would replace or rebuild each wheel cylinder. Airpack and master cylinder will need to be rebuilt also. Brake lines may also need to be replaced.

While you are doing each wheel plan on replacing the seals and repacking the bearings.

While it isn't a hard job it is labor intensive

Hey what is that thing behind the exhaust stack?!?!?!? What is that extra hole in the bell-housing?!?!?!? ;-)
 
Last edited:

CUCVLOVER

Active member
"Holely" cow. That truck has some rust issues.

Things I see:
airshift transfer
heater - some duct work is missing
box and springer seat
standard bed
turbo - can't tell is C or D
winch - big plus
bad top
a lot of rust that has been painted over.

While it will be a good project/messing around truck it would not be my first choice. The price is okay.

With the condition of the truck I would suspect that the brakes need a total rebuild. Each wheel/hub will need to removed and all the brakes shoes inspected. I would replace or rebuild each wheel cylinder. Airpack and master cylinder will need to be rebuilt also. Brake lines may also need to be replaced.

While you are doing each wheel plan on replacing the seals and repacking the bearings.

While it is a hard job it is labor intensive

Hey what is that thing behind the exhaust stack?!?!?!? What is that extra hole in the bell-housing?!?!?!? ;-)
Sounds like fun. NOT.
Its supposed to be a whistler which if I'm right it a C.
 

Floridianson

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Did you drive it. You need to and you need to be able to get it in high range and apply the throttel pretty good and then let off. The transfer case lever should stay in high range and not try or not fall out of range.
 

Jeepsinker

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He just barely has a $3500 truck there. If it didn't have that winch it would be a $1500 truck all day long with the issues it has. Doesn't matter if it has fresh paint when there is so much rust! Then you add the brakes and blinkers, then other possible problems. Just pay the man and go get it. I have a good cab and one fender when you need it.
 
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