5 ton bed on a Deuce?

[munnyhendershot]

I've tried several searches on here and haven't found much about this. My Deuce is in good shape, except for the bed. It had some extreme rust going on... I also don't have normal troop seats for it, just some ones I fabricated that I really don't like the looks of.

I have found a local guy selling a 5 ton bed with troop seats and bows, that looks to be in great shape, but need to look at in person. It has drop sides with a short solid section near the front. I really like the idea of having drop sides.

Has anyone ever put a 5 ton bed on a deuce? I imagine it would take some shortening and adding new mounts to match the deuce frame. If that idea is no good, is it possible for the troop seats to be modified to fit a stock deuce bed? The ones on this 5 ton bed have the fiberglass slats.

Thanks for any advice, help, or links.

 

[gimpyrobb]

It should be fine. The 5ton bed is just a tad longer, thats why it has the non-drop side part. The drop sides from a deuce and a 5ton bed are interchangeable. Cut it down to fit or let it hang out past the frame a couple feet.

 

[munnyhendershot]

Thank you gimpyrobb.

 

[dmetalmiki]

It won't look all that different from the (already available) long bed types. Don't cut anything, just fit it, I think you will be pleased with the result.

 

[munnyhendershot]

It won't look all that different from the (already available) long bed types. Don't cut anything, just fit it, I think you will be pleased with the result.

Wow, those look long!

I ended up buying the bed after seeing it in person today. It was in great shape, had very nice troop seats, and the drop down sides are hard to pass up. I plan on at least setting it on the frame as is to see what it looks like, then decide where to go from there. I hope you're correct and I won't feel the need to cut anything.

 

[munnyhendershot]

Picked up the bed yesterday, and removed the mud flaps and old mounts in hopes to reuse them. I put it on the deuce just to see how it looks. My wife could not tell it was any longer, and said no one else out there would notice either...

To get so it doesn't stick past the bumperettes, I'd have to cut about 1'7" off. The bumpers are probably illegal either way...

Gonna think about this week and see if it's something I want to tackle or not. I've seen a lot of guys have shortened these beds. Do any of you have tips or wish you would've done it a different way?

 

[firefox]

It looks great just like it is!

 

[armytruck63]

You'll have problems trying to tow with the pintle hook. The bed looks great, so if you're not planning to use the pintle hook, just enjoy the new look.

 

[98G]

If you shorten it, take a bite out of it such that two of the bottom crossmembers end up just a few inches from each other when rewelded. This makes that portion tje strongest and stiffest, with the most reinforcement.

I don't see a reason to shorten it, unless departure angle is very important to you.

 

[munnyhendershot]

I appreciate the feedback guys. I got a trailer for it a while ago, but haven't even hooked the 2 up other than making sure the lights worked. Decisions, decisions....

 

[red]

I'd say leave the bed as is. If your worried about towing it would not be difficult to lengthen the frame if required.

 

[munnyhendershot]

I went against the general consensus I was getting on here, and this past weekend I ended up cutting the 5 ton bed down a bit. It would have been easier just to leave it, but I knew in the back of my mind that it would bug me. I ended up cutting a 1'-6 3/4" section out near the front. I think the 2' section near the front looks neat (for lack of a better term), so I left that part alone. Cutting the section right behind that also moved the bed's raised cross frame members to be a bit more in line with the wheels.

To cut it I used a 14" quick-e-saw and a 10 pack of cut off wheels on a 4" grinder. I'm sure there are better ways, but it's all I had to use.

I still have to weld on the new mounts to the bed, attach the mud flaps, resize the troop seats, and a lot more grinding and blending to do. I simply ran out of time and primed it until I can get back to it. I'm hoping the rear brake lights' wires are long enough to move up to the bed, but I know it can't just be that easy. I'm also planning on making a hard mount for my spare tire up near the front, just haven't thought about it too hard yet.

I'll post some more pics when I get done this. I think I'm going to be really happy with this new bed!

 

[99nouns]

Duce with a 5 ton bed will look like M927

 

[99nouns]

Thats nice cutting by the way

 

[rustystud]

I agree, good job cutting that section out. Now remember to install bracing underneath on the bed frame. Welding alone won't cut it.

 

[munnyhendershot]

I agree, good job cutting that section out. Now remember to install bracing underneath on the bed frame. Welding alone won't cut it.

Any chance you can elaborate on the bracing or what you would recommend? I'm always up for some learning. To be honest, I hadn't thought of bracing due to the spring mount just in front of the splice and another hard mount behind it.

 

[rustystud]

Any chance you can elaborate on the bracing or what you would recommend? I'm always up for some learning. To be honest, I hadn't thought of bracing due to the spring mount just in front of the splice and another hard mount behind it.

The bed itself is built upon 2 rails that then attach to the truck frame. You need to brace these rails by either adding a flat strap before and after the cut ( about 20" overall length ) on both sides or adding a 'U' channel that itself fits inside the bed rail. The later will be hard to weld so I would go with the flat bar.

 

[munnyhendershot]

Question on the wood spacer between the bed and frame. The deuce ' s is 3/4" most of the way and tapers down to 1/2" near the front. Is it designed this way for movement of has it just word down over the years? Reason I'm asking is the one that came with the 5 ton bed is in better condition and has no taper. I was thinking about using it until I noticed the taper.

 

[rustystud]

Question on the wood spacer between the bed and frame. The deuce ' s is 3/4" most of the way and tapers down to 1/2" near the front. Is it designed this way for movement of has it just word down over the years? Reason I'm asking is the one that came with the 5 ton bed is in better condition and has no taper. I was thinking about using it until I noticed the taper.

It shouldn't have a taper. It's just worn.

 

[munnyhendershot]

I got this project almost complete this past weekend. Took a little more work and time than I originally thought it would, but I'm pretty happy with the results. If I'm ever going to move the rear lights up to the 5 ton location, I'll need to find out where to get those military wire splices at. I also still have to mount the trailer wiring plug and find a different strap or make a mount for the spare. Also shopping around for a cargo cover, but dang they're expensive!

One mistake I made was I measured out where I wanted to put the mud flaps, and only measured the side without the fuel tank...crap! After flipping the bed over, removing the old angle iron that holds them, and rewelding them in place, it was a painful discovery. It's fixed now, but not without a few choice words.