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EESS PCB replacement for the HMMWV ?

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Brentwood, Calif
I have S3 EESS boxes with new temp senders for $350.00
the boxes are used takeouts that have been tested...I know, cuz I tested them.
I have new in the box for 600.00
 

tigertank

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angleton texas
ok ive been reading and reading on these boxes all dif brands colors smart staer omg how do u know what u have or what u need if urs goes out? 1990 m998 and have no idea what box I have
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Brentwood, Calif
ok ive been reading and reading on these boxes all dif brands colors smart staer omg how do u know what u have or what u need if urs goes out? 1990 m998 and have no idea what box I have
and neither do We. you need to post a pic of your box. As far as what you need if it goes out? Again...I have no idea...need to know what you have. But here it is in a nut shell.

IF you have a KDS yellow label box with a yellow banded TSU, most likely both KDS labeled and the Box is a semi-gloss black....that's good

IF you have an S3 EESS, the easiest way to tell is that the casing is CARC green and it has an additional unused Data port on the front of it that is not used....these are made by KDS and Nartron.
I have not seen any of the trucks from GP with an S3 EESS yet. Most I have seen have Nartron or KDS yellow and silver label.

I would tell anyone if they want an ID? Post a pic of your Box and TSU.
 

Mike82ndABN

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Tampa/Florida
It's up and under the driver dash, top left corner, above where your left foot is when driving. Just shine a light up there and look for a rectangular box with a big connector going to it. It sits pretty much below the windshield wiper fluid reservoir, but on the inside of the cab.
 

gcbennet

Member
221
7
18
Location
Trenton, ON
That's the temperature sensor unit that screws into the water crossover on top of the engine. It senses the coolant temp and tells the box whether or not to activate the glow plugs. The S3 comes with a matching TSU and it's not a good idea to mix brands.
 

gcbennet

Member
221
7
18
Location
Trenton, ON
I don't inmagine the TSU's fail all that often. However, the one in your truck will have to be replaced when you choose to replace your current box with an S3.
 

CATONY

New member
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Location
Hermosa Beach
I have a 1992 M998 HMMWV
And I'm having the same issue many others have. Car would not start and there was no wait light. I changed all the glow plugs and one was definitely bad. That didn't fix the issue. I replaced the PCB with a new S3 EESS Natron smart start white label box and the GPC that came with it. Now the Wait light just blinks and goes off between the 10th and 23rd blink. Car still won't start and the starter just goes click click click.
I have two new batteries in the car as well.
Do you have any advice?
I have read the white label smart start box I bought doesn't work sometimes for whatever reason.
What PCB boxes Should I look into? Could it be the starter?

Thanks,

Tony
 

Wile E. Coyote

Active member
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Location
Lynden WA
You're good on your PCB and GPC if your starter solenoid is clicking, so you have other problems. This is probably a stupid question, but are you sure you've hooked your batteries up in series, and that those batteries are charged? Sounds like it's trying to run on 12V instead of 24. There are diagrams on the web, but basically, the cable coming off the block with fins mounted on the side of the battery box goes to the negative [-] of Battery 1. The cable coming off the stud going through the battery box wall towards the front of the battery box goes to the positive [+] on Battery 2. Then jumper the remaining two terminals to one-another (one will be +, the other -, and obviously on different batteries.)

You also could have the Infamous Ground Problem, so check all your connections. Go underneath and check the physical connections to the starter and make sure both ground and battery + are good and clean. Also make sure the starter bolts are in their tight, and that the fore-end mounting nut is there and tight (sometimes that falls off, or is left off by lazy mechs, and the starter will torque under load and sort of jam.)

Go under the hood and run a jumper ground (set of decent jumper cables works) between a nice, paintless piece of engine metal and one of the studs/ bolts that mounts the PCB. After you've done all that, try start it again.

There is lots and lots of information on Steelsoldiers already concerning this and other common HMMWV problems. Check the 'Stickies' first. I've had starter problems before which were basically just tired starters, and/or solenoids with contacts that were worn out 15 yrs ago.
 

CATONY

New member
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Location
Hermosa Beach
Thank you very much for the advice. I would imagine there is a ground issue because the blinking Wait light is representative of a error code right?
I will start going thru the connections.
Until the wait light is fully operational the car won't even start right?
Thanks again.
 
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