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A Frame Crane(s)?

74M35A2

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Anybody done one?

Attempting one on my 925A2 utilizing the medium duty tow bar with 10'-12' legs substituted for the inner tubes of the same dimensions (2-1/4" OD x 0.250" wall). Will have tow bar clevises welded onto the ends, pin to front bumper shackle mounts, tied back with rear winch up and over cab, and load lift with front winch.

Any show stoppers I am not considering? Have all parts now, just need to assemble.
 
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73m819

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There is/was a A frame kit for the M series, watch out over weighting the front axle and springs.
 

NDT

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Pay real close attention when you are hoisting up. I have pulled the A-frame over onto the hood three times and my buddy did it twice. When the hook reaches the block, it will pull the whole mess over with lightening quickness.
 

74M35A2

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All good points. Should be able to lift some weight, as the 8.3 is much lighter than the 855, with same front springs I believe. Will check tire load rating also, but I think we are ok there. Don't plan on lifting much, but it could be useful to pluck engines, move logs/rocks, etc... I'll post pics when done. Thanks.
 

74M35A2

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Thanks. They seem to be lifting more load than I plan to, and with smaller trucks/winches, so it confirms feasibility for what I'd like to do.
 

73m819

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In vn, we had some m52s with behind the cab winches, with telescoping gin polls that were used to self unload. The polls pined on to the rear lift brackets, the stays hooked into brackets in front of the winch. When not in use, the polls fit in brackets on each side of the frame, under the 5th wheel. This set up could lift quite a bit of weight when stranding at about 80 deg.The whole set up reminded me of the deuce pipe line truck. We had 5 or 6 of these m52s, ALL were the same, same brackets, ect., this was the way we received them, all had Army markings (we were AF, at that time the AF had almost no tactical trucks so we got a LOT of Army trucks "on loan"to the AF)(this was a legal loan as compared to other forms of loaning that took place.) .
 

Recovry4x4

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Since it's unlikely that you would go down the road with a load, slightly overloading the tires should be OK. As far as front springs, you could put a removable block on the bumpstops to lock out the springs on a heavy lift. All very doable.
 

74M35A2

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Since it's unlikely that you would go down the road with a load, slightly overloading the tires should be OK. As far as front springs, you could put a removable block on the bumpstops to lock out the springs on a heavy lift. All very doable.
Good points. I like it when people are reasonable. We'll see how much weight it takes to press the front springs to the stops and go from there. At that point, I will probably just say that is the limit.
 

74M35A2

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Picked up the 12' extension tubes today at lunch. Same ID/OD as the inner tube of a medium tow bar, since I will use the outer tow bar portion as the endmost crane piece. Real US steel made to ASTM specs. A deal at $200 cash total for both pieces. This is 1/4" thick wall structural tube. Need to test fit, mark, drill pin hole in each leg, and then weld the forged tow bar clevice portions onto the end of each tube (portion which "foot" fits to).

These will fasten inside the bed along one wall under the troop seats to store. Tow bar same but on the opposite bed wall.

So we have bumper height off of ground, plus 12' extension tubes, plus tow bar outer tube length, minus tube overlap where they join. That should be tall enough, maybe about 14' of total tube length or so at a 45 degree angle. Simple geometry with this shows the crane peak to be 11.9' up from the bumper (maybe 15.9' up from ground) and 7' out in front of bumper (remember your Sine, Cosine, and Tangent?). Cab top pulley for crane tieback line of rear winch should just be needed to pick crane up off of ground since it will have a downward slop when first assembled and one end sitting on ground.


Tubes.jpg
 

74M35A2

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So I bought some cut off forged tow bar knuckle ends to weld onto these 12' tow bar extension tubes. Dropped those off this morning at a pipe welding facility, who is welding them on in exchange for morning bagels. I could have done it, but I'd consider myself a hobby level welder, and I have seen welds from this place and would be fabulous to have when hoisting things up like my Detroit Diesel 6-71T 2 stroker motor. Pics of the welded tubes tomorrow, and possibly an initial setup attempt also (temporary boom tie back with tow strap just to demo the layout).
 

74M35A2

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Picked up the welded knuckles/tubes. They beveled both surfaces then filled it with weld and said it won't come apart. Fabulous what a dozen bagels gets.
 

Attachments

74M35A2

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Laid the pipes against the bumper just for a visual, yes, the wrong way. That is just how they came out of the car. Each is 12' long. Towbar will slip over the ends of these, and that should complete the crane frame once the feet are pinned on. Next pic I'm going to tie it back with a 30' tow strap at a 45 degree angle and see what we have.

AFC.jpg
 
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74M35A2

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Not really, but the crane portion is done. Next is to get the rear winch mounted. Will use that cable up and over the cab roof somehow to act as the tie-back for the crane frame. Then the front winch on my 925 will lift the load. Your avatar shows a 923 (no winch). What are your intentions for load lifting and tie-back?
 

peacemkr

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Trying to get a winch set up for the front ( was thinking of one for the rear also).
Will be used to move stuff around the homestead for the wife and some mechanical lifting, engines and such.
 

Artisan

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RE A-Frame mounting alone;

Many trucks have Shackles at the top AND bottom on the front fender.
I wonder if you could mount the A-Frame poles at the bottom
and use the top for support chains and eliminate that pita cable
over the top to the rear?

Edit, or better yet, loose the chains and use a bar/pipe so it
is solid and will not come back on the hood and you could
drive w/ it w/o it bouncing.
 
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