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Wheel removal for wheel cylinder replacement advise

VPed

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Clint, TX
Most of mine broke loose with a loud pop instead of squeaking from movement. I positioned the cheater pipe above and hung my weight on the end, being ready to stay clear once it popped and the pipe fell.

"Give me a lever and a place to stand and I will move the world." Archimedes of Syracuse.
 

Jeeper10

Member
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5
Location
Freeville NY
I really appreciate all the replies. I think I'm going to go the traditional route and take the wheels off. It looks like I should be buying some seals, grease and gaskets too. I read the tms regarding the job and it really requires some parts removal. I just want to get my truck so it's safe so I can drive it.
 

two.fiveM35

Active member
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Location
Victoria , Texas
The TM's may not mention it but don't forget to add the small square cork seal to the keyway on the rear axle. It has covered here several times and in PS magazine. You can get them on eday or any of the suppliers on this site.
 

Jeeper10

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Location
Freeville NY
Hey all I managed to get some work done on the deuce today. I managed to get one pair of wheels off. The only problem I had....... well in reality I had lots of problems but they were poor planning and bad luck. Anyhow the problem I had was two of the budd bolts are stuck on the wheel as they came out all together instead of just the nut coming off. Anyone have experience removing them? I thought I may need to cut them out but run the risk of damaging the wheel. Any ideas are appreciated and thanks for the all the help.
 

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FLYWHEEL

Member
131
7
18
Location
Daventry Northamptonshire U.K.
Hey all I managed to get some work done on the deuce today. I managed to get one pair of wheels off. The only problem I had....... well in reality I had lots of problems but they were poor planning and bad luck. Anyhow the problem I had was two of the budd bolts are stuck on the wheel as they came out all together instead of just the nut coming off. Anyone have experience removing them? I thought I may need to cut them out but run the risk of damaging the wheel. Any ideas are appreciated and thanks for the all the help.
Hi do a search for a pork chop spanner, this will hold nut whilst loosening the thimble. Hope this helps. Mark
 

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Tow4

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Orlando, FL
If the wheel is removed with the thimble and nut still on like your picture shows, you put the pork chop on the nut and tighten the thimble to screw it out of the nut.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
I have never seen a pork chop spanner before but whi wouldn't a box end wrench do the same job
The "pork chop" wrench has a 90 degree end to catch into the wheel. Since the wheel is already off you can just use a long wrench to go through one of the wheel holes and an impact gun to take off the "square drive" stud.
 

Welder1

Active member
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Location
Albany Ga
If you would have used the military gear reduction lug tool this could have been avoided. It drives off of the square thimble head to turn the hex nut. The gear reduction makes it reasonable to loosen most wheel nuts. I am a believer in that tool. I made my own extended handle out of a high tensile steel rod and it's a breeze even on stubborn nuts.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
If you would have used the military gear reduction lug tool this could have been avoided. It drives off of the square thimble head to turn the hex nut. The gear reduction makes it reasonable to loosen most wheel nuts. I am a believer in that tool. I made my own extended handle out of a high tensile steel rod and it's a breeze even on stubborn nuts.
The military lug tool is an amazing piece of engineering in my opinion. I would just add that if you use a jack-stand to hold the wrench up it works much better. That way when your applying force against it you don't have it fall down and off the lug nut.
PM magazine did a article on this.
 

99nouns

Member
816
17
18
Location
Ocala, FL
I'm a stubborn newbie to larger vehicles with a lot of shade tree mechanic experience on normal civi vehicles looking for advise. I have a leaking wheel cylinder rear passenger side. I have an adequate jack and will be purchasing some 6x6 lumber in place of jack stands per the advise of a fellow member as I will be on grass/gravel. I'm debating on the best way to remove the lug nuts. I've considered purchasing a large impact wrench, renting one (if available locally), or purchasing one of those torque multipliers. Anyone have an opinion on these options or other ideas? I intend to soak the heck out of the lugs as they appear to have been on there a while. I don't find any good videos on YouTube on any of this type of work. The wheel cylinders look normal enough. Thanks for the advise fellas (and ladies too). Cheers
I learned the hard way, what ever you do, do not heat the studs if you are having difficulty removing nuts off the studs, it could cause death or serious disability right then or later.
 

Jeeper10

Member
97
0
5
Location
Freeville NY
Thank u. I ordered a 13-16" square drive as I have the dual 1 1/2 and square in one and couldn't see any way of doing the job with it. I hope to dig in to the drum over the next few days. From what I can tell I need to remove the cover, seal and bearings first in order to get to the wheel cylinder. Is that right?
 

bchauvette

New member
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0
Location
Easley SC USA, 29640
I'm sorry rosco, but a "real" mechanic would not be using this trick. He would know the dangers of damaging the seals and his BACK if something went wrong. With the cheap price's of Harbor Freight tools anyone can remove their tires and brake drums the correct way. Plus you don't want grease of any kind on your tires !
I used a used greased metal plate for years but only for duels. The grease on the tire is negligible. Pretty much only small patch on the outer surface. Gets slung off in short order. You'd get more contamination diving through an oil slick. Worked at a heavy truck brake shop. Getting brake drums only to turn was very rare. Usually got tire, hub and drum as an assemble singles and duels.

BTW this works good to:
1017141435.jpg

so far had to replace 5 of the 6 seals on the M944.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
. Getting brake drums only to turn was very rare. Usually got tire, hub and drum as an assemble singles and duels.

BTW this works good to:
View attachment 607056

so far had to replace 5 of the 6 seals on the M944.[/QUOTE]

Most shops remove the whole wheel assembly. It is faster and cheaper to do it that way. We also do it this way "sometimes" if we really need a bus to get back into service fast. The best way is to remove everything so all the parts can be checked.
 
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