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Nothing. The heads were fully assembled NOS heads. Completely brand new.What valve work has been done?
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Nothing. The heads were fully assembled NOS heads. Completely brand new.What valve work has been done?
Distortion where?That's a hard one Wildchild. I would almost go with the new pistons again and some new rings (check the gaps) . The old pistons could have some distortion you cannot see.
Well, I hate working on engines in vehicle, so I would go route 2 with clean diesel and Deere break in oil. If nothing is cracked, I would not expect to be in that engine again.The cylinders seem glazed. I'm tempted to just hone my cylinders and reinstall the pistons (new style with 2 compression rings) with the same rings to see if the break in was an issue, but that is taking a chance. Do I need need new rings though ASSUMING that a break in was an issue... lets just say that right now for conversation. Do people just hone the cylinders and install everything again? I haven't heard anything about rings glazing, its always the cylinders from what I have read.
74M35A2 brought up a good point. So what do I do with my new style pistons if I abort putting them in and just use my old pistons with new rings? If I put the new style pistons back in after I hone the cylinders and they are still not working, then what? Do I really want to pull it apart again for the third time? No so much.
I can go two ways from here:
Route one: Put these new style LDS pistons back in it after I hone the cylinders and hope that running 100% diesel fuel during break in was the only problem.
Route two: Hone the cylinders and put my original LDT pistons back in it (with new NOS LDT piston rings) and change my oil squirters back to the LDT style. If I did this right off the bat, I would not have had this problem.
I know Route two will be a proven good runner. I don't know about Route one and not sure I trust the new pistons.
Anybody that is rebuilding a deuce engine as a result to blowby, here is my advice. If you pull it apart because of blowby and your pistons look good with only broken rings, dont buy new pistons. measure all the parts to see if they are in spec, chances are they are. Buy new rings ($10 a hole), hone the cylinders with a 240 grit ball hone ($70 shipped to your door), New head gaskets ($120), new intake manifold gaskets ($40) and maybe a pan gasket ($20-$30). So for about $350, you can have it back up and going, running good as long as your valves and such are in good shape. I don't see any advantage of these new style pistons for our application. Don't run the engine over 1200 degrees EGT and I'm sure everything would be fine.
When I took off the rear head, the nuts didn't seem to be as tight as the fronts, but there was not any sign of leakage on the gasket or the head. I am going to assume that isn't the cause of any problem right now. A possible cause of this sludge is the large amounts of blowby in the number 2 cylinder. At 95% blowby, that is a lot of exhaust gasses which carries moisture. When I drained the oil from the pan (it was sitting for a couple weeks), I did not see any coolant at all come out when I pulled the plug.Before you put it back together. You need to find where that coolant was coming from! View attachment 607308
You'll have it right in no time.
I agree. These engines are not crazy complicated and I pay very close attention to detail. I have my buddy helping me and with two experienced heads and 4 eyes looking things over, we would catch something. With everything we see and the DATA we have, the piston/rings/cylinders is where all the blowby is going. The valves are seating great and are not causing the blowby. All the blowby is going past the rings. How nuts is it though that it has 95% blowby and has rings on the piston? It blows my mind how that can even happen.Well, I hate working on engines in vehicle, so I would go route 2 with clean diesel and Deere break in oil. If nothing is cracked, I would not expect to be in that engine again.
You have a LOT more patience than I have ----- the thought of a 3rd teardown and rebuild would make me consider explosives.
Hope this helps.Distortion where?
So say I get new pistons, same ones I h
ad before and put it all together. I basically have the same thing I did before. Now, how do I get it to have less than 10% leakdown after I hit the starter switch? Were the parts junk or was my break in procedure wrong? You look up a break in procedure of a diesel and you can get 100 different answers.
Negative ghost rider. Blow-by past rings does not carry moisture, unless the head gasket is failed and allowing coolant into the cylinder. The only way moisture gets into the crankcase to show what you have under the valve covers is from something failed, like a cracked casting, an oil cooler, but you will see oil in the coolant because oil pressure is greater than block pressure except at hot shut down, a failed head gasket...you stated the nuts didn't seem as tight on the rear head...a coolant cooled intake, or exhaust manifold. Rain water will do the same.When I took off the rear head, the nuts didn't seem to be as tight as the fronts, but there was not any sign of leakage on the gasket or the head. I am going to assume that isn't the cause of any problem right now. A possible cause of this sludge is the large amounts of blowby in the number 2 cylinder. At 95% blowby, that is a lot of exhaust gasses which carries moisture. When I drained the oil from the pan (it was sitting for a couple weeks), I did not see any coolant at all come out when I pulled the plug.
Can't argue with that.I disagree. One of the two primary products of combustion is water. The other is CO2.
We did not pressure check the intake other than when we pressurized the cooling system with 7PSI at the cap. What are your thoughts behind the intake?Negative ghost rider. Blow-by past rings does not carry moisture, unless the head gasket is failed and allowing coolant into the cylinder. The only way moisture gets into the crankcase to show what you have under the valve covers is from something failed, like a cracked casting, an oil cooler, but you will see oil in the coolant because oil pressure is greater than block pressure except at hot shut down, a failed head gasket...you stated the nuts didn't seem as tight on the rear head...a coolant cooled intake, or exhaust manifold. Rain water will do the same.
Did you pressure check the intake manifold?
I forgot the intake manifold is water cooled. Have you had it checked for flatness? Coolant could leak into a cyl if not.We did not pressure check the intake other than when we pressurized the cooling system with 7PSI at the cap. What are your thoughts behind the intake?
How would an exhaust manifold cause moisture in the crank case?
Thank you for ideas.
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