Fuel shut off solenoid Bad?

[stationjj]

I think the solenoid on my IP is going bad?

I have a problem where the engine won't shut down after you turn the engine off.

From I can determine the gp system is in good shape, and is operating as normal. The -20 TM talks about the ground wire to the ignition, but I don't think that's it. The IP was replaced by the previous owner in early 2012.

I can force a shutdown by pulling pink wire to the IP solenoid. I have power on pink wire with engine running as normal. With the key off no power normal as well. I cleaned the connector. This leads me to think the IP solenoid is bad.

Can you replace the solenoid without pulling the whole IP? I suspect you can? Not sure.

What is a good source for a replacement? I looked at a few sites, but I am not sure exactly sure what I am asking for?

This is new to me. I am no mechanic by trade, but I am trying to learn. Is my thinking on this wrong?

Thank You,

stationjj

 

[cpf240]

With the key off, there should be no voltage on the pink wire at the IP. If there is, then you have a wiring / ignition switch problem.

My understanding is that the IP solenoid can be replaced fairly easily. Some people on this site have put 6.5L HUMMWV engines in their CUCVs and just replace the IP cover to get the 12v IP solenoid from the 6.2L CUCV engine. Would probably need a gasket or two, as well as a new solenoid of course!

 

[stationjj]

Thank You. So my thinking on this isn't wrong.
During my looking around I saw some 6.5L HUMMWV solenoids for sale. I didn't think they would work.

Can anyone give more information on using a 6.5L HUMMWV IP solenoid?

stationjj

 

[dependable]

You can replace the IP shutoff solenoid without removing the IP. I swapped one once from a core. They do not fail that often.

 

[cpf240]

The HMMWV IP solenoids are 24v, so won't work in the CUCV.

 

[walkerhunter]

I can get u a solinoid And tell you how to install i do it every day.

 

[86m1028]

You can replace the IP shutoff solenoid without removing the IP. I swapped one once from a core. They do not fail that often.

I'll disagree with that statement.
I've had a few bad ones in the last couple years.

 

[SouthernSteel]

Ignition key switch problem is what your issue is station.I know i just ran into that with my m1008. I swapped out columns and havent had a problem since.The original Cucv columns are old and probably were seriously abused.My original column was going thru ignition switches after the last one when my truck wouldnt shut down i had enough.I replaced my column with a column out of a 90 suburban and its been awesome ever since.Not to mention these replacement switches are cheaply made in taiwan or china anyways but i have an orginal gm column and key ignition switch and my issues disappeared.

 

[truck1]

Yes the IP fuel shut off solenoid can be relaced without removing the IP. Just did it on my '85 1028. Part is readily available from Standyne. Cost is about 120.00$.They do go bad with symptoms such as truck will die in hot weather. Pouring cold water on solenoid housing will restart usually. Your problem sounds like a faulty ignition switch. I ran the IP (pink wire) circuit direct fused from battery to hidden toggle switch (ash tray) to faciltate vehicle start up ,shutoff and theft deterent. My problem solved.

 

[stationjj]

Ok I am a bit confused here. Please bear with me if I ask something stupid. Again, I am no mechanic. I am learning as I go.

Several folks believe my problem is actually the ignition. I don't understand why?

My thought is that with the switch off the IP wire (pink wire) has no power. What am I missing here?

Many of you have more experience with this than I do. I am missing something.

Oddly, I have noticed several times after switch is off and key out. I am preparing to pull wire to IP. Then suddenly the engine dies. This doesn't happen all the time.

Can someone please enlighten me?

Funny thing is that when I placed my first order with CUCV Electric I bought an ignition as a spare. A mechanic told me they are a pain to replace. Since I have a spare ignition. I may try it?

thank You,

stationjj

 

[walkerhunter]

The plunger is sticking in the shutoff simply remove top cover "3bolts 5/16 head" don't remove the solenoid just take the small spring loose pull the plunger out of the barrel and use some scotch bright on it, blow out the barrel and reinstall I have fixed many of them like this.

 

[pedormont]

walkerhunter
Do you have a part number for the IP fuel shutoff solenoid from Standyne?

 

[walkerhunter]

Not of hand...Monday I can get it

 

[pedormont]

walkerhunter
Do you have a part number for the IP fuel shutoff solenoid from Standyne?

I think I may have found some good numbers but I would still appreciate an input from you if you have the time. Thanks for the quick response!

 

[brazengoat06]

so I'm having the exact same symptoms however when the key is off and engine is still running I have 1 volt. did the OP test for voltage with key off and engine still running. I'm curious if he has the 1 volt as well.

 

[brazengoat06]

Bump

 

[drewzee87t]

Bump...I just started having same issue. Mine will shut off about 5p-10 seconds after key is off. I am going to try the "clean the plunger" route and let you know.

 

[Chaski]

If anyone needs to buy a rebuild kit to get new seals one option is a Interstate-McBee M-24370

Also the solenoid is a Stanadyne 26214

 

[brazengoat06]

I'm still hoping to get a response from the OP before I make a repair decision.

 

[drewzee87t]

I had to go on a long trip to pick up a brush hog and more than usual errand trips since my last post. I think I may have just been sticky from not a lot of use. It started to get better, but was intermittent with shutting off right away. I took it apart per walkerhunter and cleaned it with carbie spray, quick scuff to shiny and put back. Now working properly. Not sure if I had a fuel issue, but running it a lot really helped. Cleaning it was what finally fixed it thought. Thanks to walkerhunter for the good info.