Valence's M66 Gun Ring

[Valence]

Be very careful with the insulation. It'll even stick to the back side of its own backing plastic and will only tear itself coming off (you know, if while peeling it off, the backing plastic gets folded back on itself).

I just screwed up big like a moron. I should have cut it out in straight lines before I tore off the looser chunks.



At this point, you're not getting anything off unless you scrape off the entire sound deadening too (what a mess that'd be).

So I just adhered another layer of insulation and I can see my shame forever. I actually wanted two layers of insulation on the top anyway, I think I'll put a third here so it's less visible.


At least the corners came out awesome (which will be covered by lights of course).

 

[Valence]

I took a couple days off work to, hopefully hammer out this project and have some help re-assembling it when red and some of my family are over.

Today I finished the top (minus the side door window weather stripping and turret opening cover). Here's a before and after:




And the back part of the hard top (minus the rear sliding glass channels and door weather stripping):



Here's a simple video I put together to help demonstrate the effectiveness of the sound deadening:
https://youtu.be/Ks9W6wHtBTA

Finally, one side of the top was in the direct sunlight. The surface temperature of the metal was over 120-123º F. On the other side of the thin sheet of metal was about 103-105º F. Over 15º F temperature reduction from 1 layer of butyl and 1 layer of the closed cell foam insulation. I placed two layers of insulation, but I expect the second layer to only provide a maximum of 5º temperature reduction. Of course this will help with temperature retention in the cold months too.

 

[Jericho]

wish i had realized you were working an old Half track mount, The fron pin only reqires a small reduction on the left from the rear side, , beld sander and paitience takes two min

 

[Valence]

wish i had realized you were working an old Half track mount, The fron pin only reqires a small reduction on the left from the rear side, , beld sander and paitience takes two min

Uh, I'm not sure what you're referring to here. Cross post?

 

[Valence]

I took a couple days off from work and got a lot accomplished but also ran into a few issues too. The tinted sliding glass windows look awesome, but are too tight in the window channel. You can slide the windows, but it takes way too much force. I'm thinking of (yet again), undoing the bolts on top and maybe drilling the holes larger to relieve some of the over-pressure on the windows. It was also definitely needed to bend the window channel wider before installing. The stick-on pile sweep wasn't too tall and held well, but I don't think it quite reaches the other window.



Attached the back section to the cab (yes, it was leaning a bit forward and I had to re-loosen the lower bolts to line up properly with the roof section).


I will have to add some RTV/sealant to the exterior on either side of the welded on corner reinforcement. As seen, the cab-to-top gasket doesn't quite make up the difference in height.


Also, what is nice, is even with one layer of butyl sound deadening, and two layers of closed cell foam 1/6" insulation, there is still plenty of room to bolt the cab and hard top together. Meaning, it doesn't get in the way - though the insulation surface is fairly fragile to damage and marring. I may have to yet cover it with something else.


Finished insulating the cab and notched all the washers for the u-bolts:

 

[Valence]

And the most exciting part:
The actual gun ring install! With much thanks to red, red's wrecker, and my brother for the time spent helping me make this possible! (and especially my dear mother, who's come to visit for three, soon to be four, weekends in a row to help me while I work on this big undertaking). Also, the first time I used the chains I bought from Mr. Gimpyrobb about a year ago.

A little out of order of what I planned (I had wanted to get the cab reinforcement plate in first), but there should be no harm done yet since I'm not currently driving the truck.

It should be noted that the pin listed earlier (ordered from TNJ Murray's) for the passenger front leg is a perfect fit.


I definitely recommend not having the roof in place

2" grade 8 bolts used all around. The gun ring fit 9/16" bolts, but the adapter plate for the driver's rear leg was only big enough for 1/2" bolts.

Installed! (well, the bolts were only finger tight at this point, but it's certainly NOT going anywhere!)


A fun video my mother took. I mean, one's just got to play with the movable ring at long last!
https://youtu.be/QRlQsiUPHEc

 

[Valence]

What didn't quite go as planned:

First, I had bought six u-bolts (3 per rear leg) so that all the cab holes were filled, and just a little bit more support per leg. I judged by the scratches on the back of the cab that the military's previous gun ring installation could make use of all 3 u-bolts per side. However, I didn't think that the passenger front leg would actually be too long for this, requiring raising the rear legs 1 notch - or a hole cut in the passenger fender, or some of the leg cut off. red had to use his 4' pry bar to open up the side leg clamp and we used a 4x4 piece of wood and a sledge hammer to beat the leg down in (and we also sprayed silicon lubricant to help the side leg slide in easier). lol

For now, I opted to see how I liked it without cutting. But if the gun and ring are too high when out shooting, you bet I'll cut some of the excess off the side leg.


Question:
Does there need to be 4 bolts in this side leg clamp? There were only two bolts there from the military (which have been replaced with new, grade 8, 1/2" bolts).


Second, my air pack rebuild did not take. I spent at least 9 hours in the course of two days to meticulously cleaning all the internals and ensure that I carefully followed the rebuild instructions from the TM (provided to me from Erik's Military Surplus, where I bought the rebuild kit). While trying to bleed the brakes today, I had brake fluid spraying out of the brake vent line that's mounted to the engine bay side of the firewall. Thankfully I decided to put air in the tanks (via the emergency glad hand) and test things or I wouldn't have found this until too late. I had enough (and I really need to get this truck road worthy for the 4th!) and I ordered a new short air pack from Erik's. Sadly, when disconnecting my air pack that I just had out, one of the connector's crimping failed and pulled apart so I now need to fix that too. Looks like that MWO was only half-hearted! (good thing this is easy and I have many packard connectors).


Third, and finally (so far), I had already ensured that the front gun ring leg would clear the brackets for my light bar, however, I hadn't taken into consideration the reinforcement to the light bar mounting brackets recently done by the Iron Works. The support brace hit the gun ring leg! I had just enough tools and skill to fix it. I believe it'll still be okay. If not, well, I'll get it fixed again

 

[Valence]

To update this list. T-minus 7 Days and counting

Ambitious TODO list:

• Bleed brakes & test air-pack & NOS master cylinder - air pack rebuild failed. New shorty on order
• Done! Get windshield wipers from red who thieved mine for his wrecker during a rain storm (lol) - Interestingly, the wipers from Erik's are far superior to the ones from Real Custom Trucks (Ted & Amy Frey).
• Done! Sound deadener on vertical portion of hard top
• Sound deadener on transfer case tunnel and transmission tunnels x2
• Done! Insulation on cab back (good news with the insulation, I already have templates for everything - some in the form of the paper backing I saved from the installed pieces)
• Done! Insulation on roof
• Done! Reinstall gun turret ring fiberglass cover with aluminum backing ring on the roof
• Done! Paint camo pattern on exterior of roof
• Done! Insulation on vertical top back
• Done! Paint camo pattern on exterior of vertical top back
• Insulation on transfer case tunnel and transmission tunnels x2 (double layer of insulation if there's clearance enough)
• Reflective tape over insulation on transfer case tunnel and transmission tunnels x2
• Done! Install strap isolators and side window weather stripping to vertical top back
• Done Install new window channels and rear sliding windows in vertical top back (may run them down to the local window tint place if there's time) - but unsatisfactory sliding (still too stiff).
• Done! Install strap isolators and side window weather stripping to roof
• Done! Re-install roof front gasket
• Drill 100 holes in reinforcement plate, and 100 holes in cab (ugh)
  • Drill the 100 holes in cab larger and install 100 nutserts
• Done! Install vertical top back on cab
• Done! Install rear gun ring legs
• Done! Install front right gun ring leg
• Done! Install gun ring
• Done! Install roof
• Done! Bolt light bar back on
• Cut, drill, paint 90 degree brackets for ammo can trays x6 (two per tray).
• Bolt on 3 ammo can trays
• Done! Drill and bolt on new front bumper flag holders (not pictured)
• Prep for parade day (I haven't yet picked what to put on the front this year. Hmmmm):
  • http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?141749-Honoring-The-Lord-and-Nation
• New: Replace air pack
• New: Fix brake switch wiring
• Done! New: Partial repaint of right light bar mounting bracket

Edit 06/27/2016: Updated the TODO list for the items completed below.

Edit 06/29/2016: Door weather stripping installed

 

[Valence]

After fully bolted on, the (yet again) modified passenger light bar mount actually just touches the front, right gun ring leg. I thought when I test fitted it had at least 1/16" of clearance. The top of the light bar bracket is close too, but honestly, this is awesome how well it all fits. Almost like they were designed to go together. I'm very fortunate (i.e. very blessed) that I get to keep my years ago Ibis Tek light bar mod that had zero forethought and planning for a gun ring in mind!

I'm sure the gun ring legs will flex slightly so I'll need to keep an eye on the passenger light bar bracket, but I do think it'll be fine.



I also thoroughly enjoy when I find, what I consider, just the right tool for the job. In this case, fastener. I originally was looking for some sort of pin with cotter pin holes on either end to secure the gun ring back rest in place. Even better are these - I forget what they're called - a screw that screws into the other screw. There not only is no cotter pins to catch on or damage the back rest fabric, but they have a smooth shaft so the back rest completely maintains its natural pivoting design.



Yes, this back rest has corroded buttons, a couple tears and stains. (the internal meta plate has been sand blasted and powder coated though I plan to, later when the fellow is not so busy, have the back rest remade with the canvas from one of those old 2-man tents. With the "US" stencil smack in the middle of the back

 

[rustystud]

You should have used the rebuild manual I posted on the Air-Packs. It is the original rebuild manual showing all the little "O" rings and where they go. You probably left one out not knowing where it was suppose to go.

 

[Bulldogger]

I also thoroughly enjoy when I find, what I consider, just the right tool for the job. In this case, fastener. I originally was looking for some sort of pin with cotter pin holes on either end to secure the gun ring back rest in place. Even better are these - I forget what they're called - a screw that screws into the other screw. There not only is no cotter pins to catch on or damage the back rest fabric, but they have a smooth shaft so the back rest completely maintains its natural pivoting design.

I believe they are called Chicago Screws.

Bulldogger

 

[Valence]

You should have used the rebuild manual I posted on the Air-Packs. It is the original rebuild manual showing all the little "O" rings and where they go. You probably left one out not knowing where it was suppose to go.

I used every part in the rebuilt kit and nothing was "left out" or "left over". I even purchased an additional o-ring that was not supplied (so that I could replace the o-ring between the pressure plates on the air chamber pushrod shaft). Part of the purchase was downloadable rebuild instructions from the Technical Manuals. A person on Facebook claimed that there was an error in the Technical manuals and it showed the pushrod to hydraulic side seal put in backwards, though the original seal was oriented the same way when I removed it.

The instructions I followed are here in my post #5422
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ce-this-week&p=1882856&viewfull=1#post1882856

 

[Another Ahab]

I also thoroughly enjoy when I find, what I consider, just the right tool for the job. In this case, fastener. I originally was looking for some sort of pin with cotter pin holes on either end to secure the gun ring back rest in place. Even better are these - I forget what they're called - a screw that screws into the other screw. There not only is no cotter pins to catch on or damage the back rest fabric, but they have a smooth shaft so the back rest completely maintains its natural pivoting design.

View attachment 630611

I believe they are called Chicago Screws.

Bulldogger

I'm late to your thread here, Mr. Valence, but this is an excellent thread, and an excellent build-out, too. You do it right.

And I hear you about finding the right tool for the job. Funny thing about those screws (and like you I never knew what they were called), but you can get them (in various lengths) at office supply stores. They're used for holding together punched sheets of paper.

It's funny how sometimes you find the solution to a problem in a place where you least expect it.

 

[scboolitcaster]

The ones they use for paper are often aluminum. I buy stainless ones from Tandy for screwing kydex on holsters.
Most places that carry kydex also carry the chicago screws, but mostly they are junk. Which is why I buy them from Tandy.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Another Ahab]

The ones they use for paper are often aluminum. I buy stainless ones from Tandy for screwing kydex on holsters.
Most places that carry kydex also carry the chicago screws, but mostly they are junk. Which is why I buy them from Tandy.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

Does Tandy sell in small lots (like individual), or do you have to buy in quantity?

 

[scboolitcaster]

You can get bags of 25 I believe.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Another Ahab]

You can get bags of 25 I believe.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

That's fair.

Do you know if the Tandy pricing compares fair with like Fastenal?

 

[Valence]

I bought the 2 Chicago screws at the local Ace Hardware store. Sold individually. They carried the aluminum ones too, but I bought the steel ones. 10-24, 1/2" length was a perfect fit.

 

[Valence]

I'm late to your thread here, Mr. Valence, but this is an excellent thread, and an excellent build-out, too. You do it right.

Thanks Mr. Ahab. I appreciate the compliments. It's no small time investment for me to take the time to take pictures and post, but I like to share the journey. I hope enough others enjoy reading it.

 

[Another Ahab]

I bought the 2 Chicago screws at the local Ace Hardware store. Sold individually. They carried the aluminum ones too, but I bought the steel ones. 10-24, 1/2" length was a perfect fit.

I always like Ace Hardware, they seem to have everything moreso than the Big Boxes (HD and Lowes), even though the stores are much smaller.

They're just hard to find sometimes.