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Bought my first CUCV M1009, need radiator

Duke Nukem

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So after looking off and on for a while, I found a M1009 that seems to be in good shape. A few minor issues, but I expect that I'll become a regular here as I try to sort through them. For now, my radiator has sprung a leak. It was fine driving home for a few hundred miles and parking overnight, but when I took it to work tonight, I saw antifreeze dripping down. Am I better off replacing the radiator or getting this one recored? If replacing, any particular brand to look for? I expect it will be quite expensive either way.
 

Tinstar

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Welcome to the addiction!

The originals aren't made anymore of course.
I would give a radiator shop a chance to see if yours can be saved.

If not, search the old threads about new replacement discussions.
Lots of threads about this exact issue.

These are old trucks
There will almost always be something to repair/replace on these.
Somerimes it's a PITA, but boy are they fun to drive!
 

Haoleb

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Sounds like you are in the same boat i was with my M1028A2. Worked great for the 4 hour drive home then took it to work the next day and the thing started pissing coolant all over the parking lot. I opted for a new one from Napa just for ease of getting the job done. It was something like 350 dollars and it is aluminum with plastic end tanks. Not as good as the original but welcome to the modern era I guess. From what I have read on here but no personal experience, is that getting it re-cored will probably run almost twice as much as getting a new one.
 

Drock

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Welcome to the hobby.. My personal rule of thumb with these trucks is this (all soft parts are dry rotted and will need replacing) Most of these trucks problems are not do to OVER use, but LACK of. They sat parked for 30 years so all rubber parts, gaskets, belts, and such will start to fail as you start driving them. But it's not a big deal, they're easy to work on, parts are still available at local parts houses, and you'll be known around town as the guy that drives the Army truck. So get ready to have a lot of gas pump conversations about your new hobby:driver:. I replaced my Radiator with an ALL aluminum one from genesis auto parts $198.49.. Here's a link...http://www.genesisautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator-chevrolet-suburban-1983-6.2l_v8_379.htm.IMG_20160606_075349.jpg
 
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fitz

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Sounds like you are in the same boat i was with my M1028A2. Worked great for the 4 hour drive home then took it to work the next day and the thing started pissing coolant all over the parking lot. I opted for a new one from Napa just for ease of getting the job done. It was something like 350 dollars and it is aluminum with plastic end tanks. Not as good as the original but welcome to the modern era I guess. From what I have read on here but no personal experience, is that getting it re-cored will probably run almost twice as much as getting a new one.
Do you have the part # from the 1 that you used?
How did the shroud & oil lines fit?
Any pictures?
Just trying to plan ahead.
Thanks
 

Haoleb

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Do you have the part # from the 1 that you used?
How did the shroud & oil lines fit?
Any pictures?
Just trying to plan ahead.
Thanks
NR2098 is the Napa P/N, But its a CU850 Radiator if you shop elsewhere. I thought I was getting one with brass tanks like in the photo but it was not. Instead it was a made in china plastic tank piece of junk but so far its working fine. Everything fit properly. I drilled out the ID of one of the fittings that is for the heater core bypass because it was just a small hole. I also replaced the O rings for the oil cooler lines. Don't have a P/N I just got some that fit perfect. I've had back luck with all aluminum radiators in my Jeep (on my 3rd mishimoto right now) so I stayed away from those.

The only issue I had was that the support brackets did not hold the radiator tight. If I had to do it all over I would have purchased new radiator rubber supports from LMC truck before hand and replaced them while I was in there. Instead I just added in pieces of some foam to make up the difference.

I also decided to replace the water pump,tstat and hoses since it was already apart and drained. I replaced the harmonic balancer and belts as well at the same time.
 
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swiss

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Don't overlook the simple items. Mine was leaking from the drain petcock. Sometimes it is the small things we overlook.
 

gringeltaube

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Drock

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OOPS sorry about that I linked to the wrong one, I fixed it, and in my defense I think when I ordered mine it was much cheaper:shrugs:.. And it did fit good but definitely needed the new urethane isolators..
 
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Duke Nukem

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I'm definitely concerned about ordering one online even with a lifetime warranty since there's no store to be able to exchange them with, and if something goes wrong, I'd have to manage to ship the thing back and wait. Right now, I checked the prices locally. Autozone is $325 for a Spectra brand radiator. My mechanic told me that they're good radiators but they look like junk to me from the pictures I've seen. Napa is $420 for the one Haoleb recommends. I think first I'll pull it out and take it to the radiator shop and see if it can be repaired economically, and if not, how much a re-core costs. Does anyone have long-term experience with a re-cored radiator and how they compare to replacing it with a new one over the long run? Thanks for all of the information, I appreciate the advice. I'll keep this thread updated with how it goes when I have time to pull the radiator, hopefully Thursday morning.
 

Haoleb

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I'm definitely concerned about ordering one online even with a lifetime warranty since there's no store to be able to exchange them with, and if something goes wrong, I'd have to manage to ship the thing back and wait. Right now, I checked the prices locally. Autozone is $325 for a Spectra brand radiator. My mechanic told me that they're good radiators but they look like junk to me from the pictures I've seen. Napa is $420 for the one Haoleb recommends. I think first I'll pull it out and take it to the radiator shop and see if it can be repaired economically, and if not, how much a re-core costs. Does anyone have long-term experience with a re-cored radiator and how they compare to replacing it with a new one over the long run? Thanks for all of the information, I appreciate the advice. I'll keep this thread updated with how it goes when I have time to pull the radiator, hopefully Thursday morning.
The napa one is the same spectra one you will get at autozone... I am not sure how Napa does their pricing. When I look at my local store they have it for $304.20 but other stores have it for $420 and then other stores have it for $304 again?!?
 

cucvrus

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The Autozone ones are great radiators. I have installed a few dozen of them. What makes a radiator look like junk? It either cools the engine and holds the coolant or it over heats the engine and leaks. it is not a cosmetic item. I have several that I have had in use for many(10) years and have not had any issues with them. I had one last year that was about 8 years old and it leaked slightly at the right seam and I contacted Autozone and they had one ready and it was an even exchange. It was an opportunity to change the fluid and hoses on a snow plow truck that takes a noble beating year round. the seam was leaking because the lower idolators had basically disintegrated from age. I have been using idolators that are the poly type. But fear not the Autozone radiator it is a Mexican radiator and has been discussed many times on this site. Do as you wish. I am a happy customer with Autozone products and I don't care where they are made. If they fit and work I use them. For the most part with great results. Others opinions may vary. But so be it. Have a great Day.
 

Drock

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Aluminum radiators will be more efficient, an ALL aluminum one will be more reliable. Also you need to be careful, some of the plastic tank ones are only 1 core. The 2 core is the one you want.
 

cucvrus

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My personal preference is the Harrison OEM plastic and aluminum radiator. They went top the plastic aluminum 4 core after they dis continued the copper brass GM. But the old tried and true brass and copper are fine also. I have a few of the OEM ones that did not leak but I replaced them during rebuilding them. Some told me to hang onto them for the end tanks. Re-coring is out of this world in pricing. But I did save a few for diehard restorations.
 

Duke Nukem

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Well it looks like the jury has spoken. Unless my radiator can be repaired short of re-coring, I'll go with the $325 spectra. I notice from searching that a lot of people had problems getting the oil lines to fit on them so hopefully it works for me.
 

Duke Nukem

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I think I'd rather pay the extra $25 to have a local place to exchange it if it ever leaks. I just hope Autozone is decent about honoring their warranties, I've had bad luck at Advance where they basically tell me to go f*** myself knowing it's nowhere near worth it to take them to small claims.
 

cucvrus

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Just make sure you open the box and check the radiator thoroughly for damage before you leave the store. Do NOT accept one that has any damage. I have bought several and have had to wait a bit to get a damage free one. And I went the Amazon way twice and that was worse. They were dropping them off when I was not home then it was longer wait time to resolve the damage issue. At Autozone you are standing at the counter and you don't pay if it is damaged. But I never had any issues at Advance with warranted parts either. If you have proof of purchase they will honor the warranty. But MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING A DAMAGE FREE RADITOR BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE STORE. The oil cooler lines not fitting is an easy resolve. You just need to buff/sand off the extra tubing that is protruding into the radiator fitting. It does nothing anyway the seal takes place at the oil ring. So it will hurt nothing. It does not happen every time but it does happen. Good Luck and report back with your results. Change all the hoses while you are t it. And I always recommend changing the mounting isolators every time the radiator is out. The polyurethane ones are available.
 

Rvitko

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I was surprised by the fact the copper/brass are no longer available. I bought a spectra 4 core copper about 18 months ago. As far as the oil cooler lines. They mushroom out and won't reinsert in the new radiator. Patiently sand them down until they just fit. I got impatient on one and I have to use lock tite thread sealant to keep it from a slow drip. Best is to have everything out and fit it before installing
 
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