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803a hours

DieselAddict

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Well, you'll find out whether they are REALLY rated for 1klbs. My luck with ones from NTool or other bargain tool place has been less than satisfying.

I don't have photos of mine since they are far away but I build a dolly that fit the frame rails nicely on the 80x series. Used some 4" (maybe 5", can't remember, they are larger than normal) industrial casters with some scrap lumber. Everything is bolted together with a bit of glue between the wood joints for some extra strength. Its very easy to move them around on the larger casters.

Go with the largest wheels you can. It makes a BIG difference in how easily the thing is to move around.
 

TrailLifeBill

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Congrats on the generator! Mine was almost the same situation - 8700 hrs on Hobbs, but Reset sticker outside and new paint and dataplate on the engine. A little forklift damage to non critical areas on one side. Mine went for around $800, and I'm thrilled with it - ran 40 hours during Irma without a hiccup. I'm sure you've downloaded all the documentation for it - now's the time to start learning your generator. Enjoy!!
 

CMPPhil

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Temple, NH
Picking unit up today, have got the boat prepped to exit garage under tarp for winter, does anyone have any recommendations for a dolly to move the 803a around?

My plan was to stick it on two of these furniture dollys (they are rated @ 1000 pounds each)
I've had poor luck with those furniture movers, the plastic wheels are not ment for constant load they develop flat spots both on the wheels, and the axle. If you want to leave the load on the platform go with solid metal wheels.

My experience was with storing engines under 500lbs. When building engine test/storage stands been using metal wheels after trying various plastic wheel casters. Non of the plastic worked, all replace with metal some of the stands have had 1000lbs engines on them for ten+ years and the engine roll around just fine.
Cheers Phil
 

NATCAD

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I've had poor luck with those furniture movers, the plastic wheels are not ment for constant load they develop flat spots both on the wheels, and the axle. If you want to leave the load on the platform go with solid metal wheels.
My experience was with storing engines under 500lbs. When building engine test/storage stands been using metal wheels after trying various plastic wheel casters. Non of the plastic worked, all replace with metal some of the stands have had 1000lbs engines on them for ten+ years and the engine roll around just fine.
Cheers Phil
Hi Phill and DA - I'd like to use some pneumatic ones rated to 300 pounds each

How would I mount this?
8442469.jpg
 

CMPPhil

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Hi

Question do you need to roll the unit on to soft ground, gravel, etc. or will it be on hard surface like concrete at all times? The wheel unit you show would work better on soft ground but I think will still take a flat spot if the generator stands in one position for any length of time. Tracktor Supply has caster units for wheels like this and will probably have the fixed position to go with the caster. To get an idea of how I'm using heaving casters take a look at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/Engine Test Stand.htm. All of my stand units run around on plywood and concrete floors. I use 2X2 inch steel box tubing to fabricate my shop stands pictures show them being used as for engines but also use it to move axle assemblies for my 3 tons.

Cheers Phil
 

NATCAD

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Port Huron Michigan
Hi
Question do you need to roll the unit on to soft ground, gravel, etc. or will it be on hard surface like concrete at all times? The wheel unit you show would work better on soft ground but I think will still take a flat spot if the generator stands in one position for any length of time. Tracktor Supply has caster units for wheels like this and will probably have the fixed position to go with the caster. To get an idea of how I'm using heaving casters take a look at http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/Engine Test Stand.htm. All of my stand units run around on plywood and concrete floors. I use 2X2 inch steel box tubing to fabricate my shop stands pictures show them being used as for engines but also use it to move axle assemblies for my 3 tons.
Cheers Phil
I want to store it in garage, out of elements and move to its pad for running (about 10 feet from garage) and I have grass to cross (I do not have soft ground, gravel/sand with a bit of clay.

I could also patio stone that 10 feet for a walkway/generator runway.
 

Chainbreaker

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Oregon
I'm thinking about this set - do you think the weight 1200 pounds will do it?
I've used those type before. The problem is the Chinese rubber (both tube and tread) does not last very long. You will soon get checking (dry rot) and will notice a tire is low on air, then when you go to air it up the tube will blow out or the tread will separate. You will find this to be the case with pretty much any foreign made tire that is not DOT (non-hiway) approved. I guess with those they can use any cheap rubber compound they want since they don't have to meet any standards.

There are solid rubber tires (same style) but they are often pretty pricey as compared to pneumatic. I have not tried them so can't comment on how well they last or perform.

If you could find the flat wide metal old style wheels like was used on rolling metal scales, old push carts and dollys you would be set. Often you see them at old farm garage sales and they are very reasonable and will last a lifetime.
 

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
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If you can't find a wide all metal caster type wheel then these would be better than the one you referenced above (higher weight limit and solid tire). Although, they might take a flat spot after setting a while with as much static weight you are going to have setting on them: https://www.amazon.com/Marathon-9x3...rd_wg=2yZHS&psc=1&refRID=H99EN6H4WNXYBW7B3SQX

These would probably be even better: https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Heavy-D...rd_wg=wmmiG&psc=1&refRID=M2J6JTRFGT61TNCJ1BY7

These would definitely support weight no flat spots, just a matter if you think you could roll them across your path. You could always put down some plywood to roll across: https://www.amazon.com/Swivel-Caste...rd_wg=rPNUp&psc=1&refRID=PYTTG576R1Q1FYCDVDAN
 
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steelydan

Member
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Location
Somewhere, NH
When I bought it, my 803A had 18 hours on it (unit was reset) and it's a 2007.
I'm considering buying a higher hour or older unit for replacement parts. Are there certain year ranges that have near 100% compatability of parts for my 2007?
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Va
When I bought it, my 803A had 18 hours on it (unit was reset) and it's a 2007.
I'm considering buying a higher hour or older unit for replacement parts. Are there certain year ranges that have near 100% compatability of parts for my 2007?
Howdy,
A MEP-803A is a MEP-803A, through all the years they are the same.

NOTE: there are some updates, such as fuel pumps to the Airtex round units, and the quad winding fuse update.
 

NATCAD

Active member
241
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Location
Port Huron Michigan
Hello and good morning,

I completed my recovery of the 803a last night. Photos to follow, she is a 'looker' as far as I am concerned. I hope she is a runner.
I have fresh oil, fuel and air filters to install and then will follow procedure to start. My plan is to load test with an electric range.
clamping amp meter comes in shortly.

I lucked out with the following bonuses:

-both red top batteries measured at 12.25 V (I have the out and on an AGM charger overnight)
(solargizer and panel must have been helping out)
-I have a grounding rod!
-I have an auxiliary fuel line!
-I have a hard copy technical manual, and several laminated sleeves (will post photos later)

What else... whoever worked on this last loved the dielectric grease there was no corrosion under the half inch of grease on the terminals!

Lot of dust inside the non oil filter side of engine (engine oil filter side was very clear (surprising?)

I see some weeping of black goo around the exhaust manifold to muffler connection... I'm guess this is the wet stack good I have heard about.

After moving this beast with a 3/4 tank of fuel and all fluids, I have abandoned my plan to try and build an off road carriage or wheels for this.
If I did ... I think I would get a small trailer axle and customize it (maybe mount thru wood blocks in the fork lift slots)

I was looking at the threading on the exhaust pipe - I'd consider threading a small pipe extension onto it, and running a flexible steel exhaust line out of garage
s-l1000.jpg

I could also install a fresh air inlet as well MakeUpAirSystem.jpg


My garage is about 20 feet away from house, I like the idea of having the generator out of sight and out of weather, and the noise could be alot quieter.

I could also buy a small tractor to move generator out to pad for usage. But then the tractor would take up generator space in the garage and then I'd need a new garage, and that garage would need this or that... and that quickly spirals out of control.
 

robson1015

Active member
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Location
New Concord, Ohio
You did real good....looks like you got the gauges with the light bulbs in them, and the fuse mod looks in place. You need the MOV mod. I just went through it when I got mine not too long ago. Nice score !!
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Howdy,
The unit looks good. Clean straight panels, taken care of, and maintained unit

NOTE; you will need to replace the fuel return lines. They shows signs they are at the weeping-leaking time

A good 4 hours at 100% load will help with the wet-stack goo

MEP-8xx wet stack info
 
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