My new LMTV is blowing water pumps and loosing alternator brackets!

[coachgeo]

yeah agreed. I need to find the root cause.

keep us posted what the root seems to be. Seems that root..... tends to show up more often that not is these older trucks we got.

 

[Duckworthe]

So I received my drive shafts back from the shop yesterday and installed them. They always look brand new when Todd rebuilds shafts. They went right in. I use a $10.00 bottle jack to remove or install my shafts. Just as easy and way cheaper then the $250.00 tool and I carry the bottle jack to change a tire anyway. I also carry 2 longer bolts to put through the caps to make sure the bolt holes line up correctly when installing them. If the are off, you will have to remove them again. So it is just an easy way of making sure they go in straight/correctly. So, now that they are new shafts there obviously ZERO lateral/ hinging movement in the splines. I took it for a test drive and it is so much nicer. There was vibrations before that are not there now. My truck had noises and vibrations from the day I got her and I knew no difference. But now I can tell that the shafts were a source because it isn't there anymore. I also built a new upper alternator mount to replace the second one that broke. We will see how this one hold up. I know it will as now the vibration is gone and I also made it a little better and better quality then original. I will be heading out on the 21st through the 2nd on a trip through Arizona. I will give everyone an update upon return. I will also start a new thread about fixing my Alternator that broke the 24 volt stud off. What a pain! Merry Christmas everyone.

 

[pontiac62]

View attachment 712806So I received my drive shafts back from the shop yesterday and installed them. They always look brand new when Todd rebuilds shafts. They went right in. I use a $10.00 bottle jack to remove or install my shafts. Just as easy and way cheaper then the $250.00 tool and I carry the bottle jack to change a tire anyway. I also carry 2 longer bolts to put through the caps to make sure the bolt holes line up correctly when installing them. If the are off, you will have to remove them again. So it is just an easy way of making sure they go in straight/correctly. So, now that they are new shafts there obviously ZERO lateral/ hinging movement in the splines. I took it for a test drive and it is so much nicer. There was vibrations before that are not there now. My truck had noises and vibrations from the day I got her and I knew no difference. But now I can tell that the shafts were a source because it isn't there anymore. I also built a new upper alternator mount to replace the second one that broke. We will see how this one hold up. I know it will as now the vibration is gone and I also made it a little better and better quality then original. I will be heading out on the 21st through the 2nd on a trip through Arizona. I will give everyone an update upon return. I will also start a new thread about fixing my Alternator that broke the 24 volt stud off. What a pain! Merry Christmas everyone.

Wow those look great. I’m jealous . That is good info. About how that took the vibrations out. Curious if the stock alternator bracket would be good enough.


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M1081 LVAD

 

[Aernan]

I use a $10.00 bottle jack to remove or install my shafts. Just as easy and way cheaper then the $250.00 tool and I carry the bottle jack to change a tire anyway. I also carry 2 longer bolts to put through the caps to make sure the bolt holes line up correctly when installing them.

Could you describe that procedure? I can imagine using a clamp to squeeze the ujoints together. Do you crib the jack up high enough to push from below?

 

[snowtrac nome]

Could you describe that procedure? I can imagine using a clamp to squeeze the ujoints together. Do you crib the jack up high enough to push from below?[/QUOTE
You set the shaft with the joints up and down, than remove the bolts on the cap, jack on the yoke and it will push the cap out, than rotate the shaft jack on the joint again, and push the other cap out. There have been times corrosion has required a tap from the BFH to get the cap to start moving.

 

[Aernan]

Wow. That's really clever.
Then how do you get the caps back in for re-install.

 

[snowtrac nome]

If you clean up the bores with sand paper and use anti sieze you can usually push them by hand, or tap them with a hammer, worst case you can push them with a jack again but push on the caps this time.

 

[Aernan]

well that saves me buying a special tool to take care of that. Thanks!

 

[Duckworthe]

So last night I took the truck for a drive again. I can't explain the difference of how the truck drives with these new shafts in place! Noises that I thought might be normal are no longer there. I highly recommend getting your drive shafts rebuilt. My shafts were within the tolerances for lateral/hinging measurements but WOW what a difference it makes having no vibrations! price of rebuilt shafts vs. damage to the truck= best money I have spent!

 

[Adventure Driven]

I am in the process of changing my 100 amp alternator to a new 200 Amp alternator, I also have a new water pump from CAT to install while I am at it as a preventative maintenance measure, I just checked my stock alternator and sure enough my two top bolts on the bracket the thread into the water pump were missing and one bolt that goes to the block is snapped off, I was probably minutes away from disaster

Seth

Good morning all. So I posted a few pages back that I had my bracket issue fixed. Well it was for about 3000 miles. I was just out in the mountains near Idlewild Ca and I noticed that my belts were loose. I looked at the mount that I had built and noticed that it had broken the welds. all the bolts were still tight but the ear of the bracket broke off. I haven't had a weld break in over 40 years. Everything else was fine luckily. I think I am going to sit down and see about a better system for this mount. Probably just mill it out of a single piece and see if it can be double shear also. This is obviously a serious problem that many of us are having. It should have more than a single top ear supporting it. Maybe one in the top rear also. I will let you all know what I come up with as soon as I can. I need to be on the road soon so I need to get busy! For now, I'm glad I carried a small ratchet strap. Have a great day!

 

[aleigh]

I am in the process of changing my 100 amp alternator to a new 200 Amp alternator, I also have a new water pump from CAT to install while I am at it as a preventative maintenance measure, I just checked my stock alternator and sure enough my two top bolts on the bracket the thread into the water pump were missing and one bolt that goes to the block is snapped off, I was probably minutes away from disaster

Seth

I can tell you all about it... ha ha ha

 

[coachgeo]

I am in the process of changing my 100 amp alternator to a new 200 Amp alternator, ...

Look forward to a thread on this topic. Story thus far says the Military 200amp won't fit cause it is too long. It hits the turbo. One Fire service comapny supposedly did the swap on their LMTV, but it was an second hand remark though... and never could find more info on it and I did try.

 

[Awesomeness]

Look forward to a thread on this topic. Story thus far says the Military 200amp won't fit cause it is too long. It hits the turbo. One Fire service comapny supposedly did the swap on their LMTV, but it was an second hand remark though... and never could find more info on it and I did try.

Me too. Don't the military 200A alternator kits come with a whole new set of mounting brackets and stuff? I think that's the key - it doesn't just swap in place. The kits also come with upgraded wiring and other relevant electronics, I think.

 

[coachgeo]

Me too. Don't the military 200A alternator kits come with a whole new set of mounting brackets and stuff? I think that's the key - it doesn't just swap in place. The kits also come with upgraded wiring and other relevant electronics, I think.

Apparently you are correct. Got this from a CLOSED Ebay ad. Suprman from here was the seller.

... alternator upgrade kit for the LMTV trucks. NSN 6115-01-432-2684. It has the alternator and everything you need to install it with manual, there are some duplicate parts the kit is designed to do several variants. 200 amp output, the current rating is for both 12 and 24 combined. The original 100a alt operates the same way. You can see the first pic I installed the same kit in my M1078 with the CAT 3116 engine.

 

[Awesomeness]

View attachment 712806So I received my drive shafts back from the shop yesterday and installed them.

Did Todd tell you how bad your shafts were before he fixed them?

 

[pontiac62]

Did Todd tell you how bad your shafts were before he fixed them?

That’s was answered in thread #82 of this post.


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M1081 LVAD

 

[Awesomeness]

That’s was answered in thread #82 of this post.

No it wasn't - I read all Duckworthe's posts before asking. He just says they were really bad. I was hoping when he got them back he would have some actual numbers.

 

[DiverDarrell]

I have one of suprmans 200 amp kits installed. Yes new brackets, different L bracket, new wires and new protection block. Was a bit of a pain to figure it all out. Afterwards it turned out my bad 100 amp was only due to the maintenance people swapping the pos and neg leads. My guess was to sideline the truck to get the new ones.

 

[Adventure Driven]

I would love to talk with you about this, I am getting ready to mount the 200 amp alternator and wondered if I really need the protection block, I wanted to go from alternator straight to batteries, but if its a bad idea then I will go ahead and use the protection block, the blue prints are not very good as far as a wiring guide, love to see how you did it

Seth

I have one of suprmans 200 amp kits installed. Yes new brackets, different L bracket, new wires and new protection block. Was a bit of a pain to figure it all out. Afterwards it turned out my bad 100 amp was only due to the maintenance people swapping the pos and neg leads. My guess was to sideline the truck to get the new ones.

 

[coachgeo]

.... getting ready to mount the 200 amp alternator and wondered if I really need the protection block, ...

Is this the Reverse Polarity Box that usually sits somewhere below spare tire? Suprman has mentioned it can be eliminated on the A0's if I recall right. For some reason part of me remembers it can't be on A1's. But, IMHO.... if you have it use it. Only takes one stupid moment to get confused during a jump start (with all those batteries.... easy to do) and fry things. Kinda like... The box is like us checking driveshafts to protect from costly repai$ of Alternator's, water pumps, transmissions etc. etc.