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Terrible sound

JKELLS

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Well I am still having trouble starting the deuce. I was tooling around on it last night and I saw fuel running through the lines but it didn't start. Also I heard/read that you have to bleed the injectors? As I was closing the hood after I was fed up I noticed antifreeze in the oil filter canisters housings. So I have that going on now too.
 

jkcondrey

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As long as you have good batteries, turn switch on, let the lift pump run for a minute or so, fuel will push through back to the tank. Bleed the 2nd and 3rd filters as the pump runs to get all air out of those. That should get most of the air out. Then give it a try.
 

gimpyrobb

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Coolant in oil sounds bad. Could be head gaskets, could be oil cooler. Personally, I'd check oil cooler first.
 

Big Tom

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If u have fuel moving and still won't start be shure stop cable is in and it's moving at pump mite be stuck in stop position
 

doghead

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Please explain what you saw, were your oil filter canisters off?

I thought you were cranking it over to try to start it.

Were exactly did you see antifreeze?

Were did you see fuel flowing?
 

JKELLS

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the fuel was flowing through all the lines. just not full flow. it was sporadic. and the coolant was on the canisters. no oil in the block though. I will be able to work some more on it either this sunday or upcoming Monday. no promises but try to get pics and video.
 

doghead

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Do you have a heater?

If so, maybe just the hoses leaking?

If that's the case, maybe your belts were squealing when you started it because they were wet.


Please try to word things correctly and precisely, it helps a lot.
 

rustystud

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https://youtu.be/hmz3G9cGmOs

Here is a video I got today.

First off you have a miss in the engine. Check and clean your injectors. Second you have a belt squealing. It more then likely is the air-compressor belt. Do you make air pressure ? If not then the compressor is bad. It also could be the water pump. Check your coolant flow by feeling the upper radiator hose.
Third you have some serious "blow-by" . After you get it running good, take it out and run it hard. If that doesn't reseal the rings then you have a ring job in your future.
How's your oil pressure ?
 

Scar59

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Also sounds like a piece of cowling/metal panels chipping. Had the same sound on a truck. two pieces of metal were chaffing. Add a little clearance somewhere.
 

doghead

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Often the driver side inner fender panel will touch/rattle on the frame near the rear corner of it.

That can be very annoying.

A little bending or rubber edging can eliminate that issue.

I can't hear any squeal in the video.
 

tie6044

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Also, the fuel you are seeing in the lines (clear lines I assume) is not the supply line, they are return lines from the injectors. The supply lines are the hard lines from the injection pump to each individual injector. It's normal to see gaps or bubbles in the clear lines.
 

JKELLS

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Thanks guys. That is very helpful. I will start on all that. It will be a week or so. Is there a way to bleed the injectors? Is there any other tool you could use to change the air compressor belt. Besides the ones special made for it? I will also post a pic of the oil canisters. that has me bothered. I was talking with someone and said could be the oil cooler?
 

frank8003

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~ Is there a way to bleed the injectors? Is there any other tool you could use to change the air compressor belt. ~
First you get it running, It should make a heck of a mess with just the lift pump ON with the little bleeder valve open between the secondary filters.
secondary filter IMG_0143.jpg

Second, one does not need any special tools to tighten up the compressor belt, see photos. The fine screw mount that the thing adjusts with must be kept lubed up. If that is so then loosen the two and 9/16" bolts and crank the engine without starting it once. That puppy will tighten right up then retighten the bolts. If is all corroded then lube it up and use some tools as in the photos. One has to hold the rusty hex in the center of the photos and pipe wrenches are crude. Pipe wrenches are too wide, use a 1-13/16" flat wrench.
IMG_7241.jpgIMG_7245.jpgIMG_7246.jpgIMG_7247.jpg

Turns out, just keep the fine threads lubed up. The design is rotation of component disallows loosening.
Just bump the engine to position so that one can loosen up good both front clamping bolts with a 9/16” six point socket. One on top one on bottom works good. That is why it is built that way. Disable engine starting by keeping the engine fuel cutoff OUT. Just bump it.
Otherwise, Just stand next to truck and turn the back of the pulley CCW wise and the pulley screw will walk right thru the clamping device. Do not tighten belt too much, just so the belt don’t slip.
So just use the 1-13/16” slim wrench.

Then go retighten evenly both 9/16” head bolts. Done. When adjusting by hand just hold the back of the pulley casting with a 1 -13/16” slim wrench.
 
Last edited:

glcaines

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That squealing noise in the video sounds very much like a compressor belt to me. The squealing is even pulsing like the compressor. If you plan on keeping the deuce, I would recommend purchasing the wrench set for the compressor. You can normally find them for a reasonable price on Ebay or elsewhere.
 

gimpyrobb

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I'd love to help out, the new job is a real pita for any social events. Been getting 70+ hr weeks since Thanksgiving.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
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Gimp, take a run down there and look at this guys stuff.
And He pays you room and board, chee-burgers, beer, and $10.000 for the use of your tools and Your expertise.
I could not entice Gimpy to goto South Florida so anybody else that that gets the Doctors help I am jealous of.............................Just sayin
 
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