preventable rear suspension failure

[rustystud]

I'm in the process of cleaning up the springs for paint,but noticed severe corrosion here and on the u bolts. Any problems here? Thanks

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Your going to want to remove the "U" bolts and possibly replace them. I drill out this hole area myself so that debris doesn't collect there anymore. This has always been a major problem area on all deuces. The bolts rust out due to all the debris holding moisture against the bolts. I have two sets of NOS "U" bolts I keep on hand at all times due to potential rust issues.
Though since I drilled out the holes I haven't needed to replace them. But "you never know" !!!

 

[russojap]

Ok, thanks Rusty. I was afraid that might be the case but I'm glad there doesn't seem to be any problem with the trunnion/housing? I'm not sure what the name of the part is the bolts go through. It looks like there used to be something else down in those openings that has rusted away though.

Can somebody recommend the best place to get replacement bolts?

 

[rtadams89]

For those of you talking about adding a grease fitting: did your trucks have a threaded hole for a fitting, and the fitting was just missing, or did they lack the threaded hole altogether?

 

[rustystud]

For those of you talking about adding a grease fitting: did your trucks have a threaded hole for a fitting, and the fitting was just missing, or did they lack the threaded hole altogether?

There should be a threaded hole with a pipe plug in it. Your suppose to remove the plug, install a grease zerk and then lube it. Afterwards your suppose to remove the zerk and install the pipe plug. I installed a grease zerk in the cap and a pressure relief valve in the old plug hole.

 

[rtadams89]

I installed a grease zerk in the cap and a pressure relief valve in the old plug hole.

To clarify, you drilled/taped the dust cover to install a zero and put a pressure relief valve like the axels have in the original zero/plug hole? Nifty

 

[gringeltaube]

For those of you talking about adding a grease fitting: did your trucks have a threaded hole for a fitting, and the fitting was just missing, or did they lack the threaded hole altogether?

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ir-and-upgrade&p=496552&viewfull=1#post496552

 

[rustystud]

To clarify, you drilled/taped the dust cover to install a zero and put a pressure relief valve like the axels have in the original zero/plug hole? Nifty

Yes. Except the relief valve is a high pressure grease relief valve. I cannot remember where I bought them, but if you look-up "high pressure grease relief valve" you should find them. They cost about $5.00 each.

 

[rustystud]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...ir-and-upgrade&p=496552&viewfull=1#post496552

The last post here was mine showing the relief vent I installed. I bought them from www.oringsandmore.com . They are called "1/4-1 PSI Top Vent Relief" plugs.

 

[orren]

Rusty,

It looks like in some pictures that grease squeezes out back end and relief
valve shouldn't be necessary. With just the cap zerk installed and the plug
in the bottom I would think grease would work its way all around OK.

Your thoughts?

 

[russojap]

Your going to want to remove the "U" bolts and possibly replace them. I drill out this hole area myself so that debris doesn't collect there anymore. This has always been a major problem area on all deuces. The bolts rust out due to all the debris holding moisture against the bolts. I have two sets of NOS "U" bolts I keep on hand at all times due to potential rust issues.
Though since I drilled out the holes I haven't needed to replace them. But "you never know" !!!

If it's not too much trouble could you take a picture of that, how big is the hole? Thanks

 

[Eliteweapons]

The last post here was mine showing the relief vent I installed. I bought them from www.oringsandmore.com . They are called "1/4-1 PSI Top Vent Relief" plugs.

Rusty,
I called them about those yesterday after reading your post. It is their sister company Zerksplus.com that sells them under pressure relief vents. I am going to need to pull my caps to drill and tap them too.

Thanks
[h=1][/h]

 

[rustystud]

Rusty,

It looks like in some pictures that grease squeezes out back end and relief
valve shouldn't be necessary. With just the cap zerk installed and the plug
in the bottom I would think grease would work its way all around OK.

Your thoughts?

No. The seal would get blown out due to the pressure of the grease. You need a way for the grease to escape to prevent that. The hole also needs to be closed during use or crap will get in there. That's why I went with a pressure relief valve. No worries about removing the plug and then reinstalling it. Just grease and go. Quick and simple.

 

[rustystud]

Rusty,
I called them about those yesterday after reading your post. It is their sister company Zerksplus.com that sells them under pressure relief vents. I am going to need to pull my caps to drill and tap them too.

Thanks

Glad to help. It's also good to know that the company "Zerksplus.com" has them now. Thanks for sharing that information.

 

[cucvmule]

Ok, thanks Rusty. I was afraid that might be the case but I'm glad there doesn't seem to be any problem with the trunnion/housing? I'm not sure what the name of the part is the bolts go through. It looks like there used to be something else down in those openings that has rusted away though.

Can somebody recommend the best place to get replacement bolts?

If these are like leaf spring u bolts are some what like I have mine made at St. Louis Spring, made to any measurement I give them or they may even have the specs on hand.
Very Reputable Operation, Professional. Spring packs made to order, or rebuild yours also.
314-533-2132 Cars to Heavy Trucks, Equipment

 

[gringeltaube]

No. The seal would get blown out due to the pressure of the grease. You need a way for the grease to escape to prevent that. The hole also needs to be closed during use or crap will get in there. That's why I went with a pressure relief valve. No worries about removing the plug and then reinstalling it. Just grease and go. Quick and simple.

Hey Rusty, please.... think - then post! Orren has it right.

That seal that you say "would get blown out..." It is the very same seal as the inner ones on the wheel hubs: NSN 5330-00-891-7826.
I think it was in the late sixties when they did that upgrade with the sleeve bearings, to replace those (weak) #392 tapered bearings. But the seal itself remained unchanged, even for the M35A3.

Due to its design it already acts as a big relief valve in itself, so there is no need for any extra relief valve.
The only thing that will happen if you pump too much grease in - either at the original spot or via an additional zerk on the cap - is that all excess will come out in between the seat and the bracket. And actually that helps to flush the whole assembly and carry any accumulated moisture and debris back out. It also ensures that the felt packing stays oily and the shaft doesn't corrode so fast.

 

[frank8003]

I pumped a whole tube of GAA into each side and never seen any of it again.
Still wonder where it all went.

 

[cattlerepairman]

I can confirm that, after pumping what seems like much too much grease in with the pneumatic grease gun, it came out on the back, pushing all the old grease and gunk out. I did that after taking the caps off and installing a grease zerk and inspecting the bearings (were fine). I had the axles hanging free and thought this would be the ideal time to shoot grease through the trunnion bearings.

I cannot contribute to the discussion on needing a pressure relief. I simply assumed that the joint was constructed in a manner that was similar to other greaseable joints.

 

[Floridianson]

I pumped a whole tube of GAA into each side and never seen any of it again.
Still wonder where it all went.

Maybe not enough. Since I have only been able to keep up the work on what trucks are working good I have left my first Deuce go down hill. She needs a restore but has some new stuff. I got this first Deuce from my friend that was like a son to me when he passed. His wife gave it to me and told myself I would make it a good looking job when I was done and never sell it as it has to be passed on to my son or family. Well I have had the truck since 2008.
Back to Deuce yes when I can get started back on it I will a said above I will pull caps look sea then decide if I want a zerk on the cap. I to believe it can be serviced with just using the zerk that is on the bottom. If you look sea and everything looks good guess you cap /reseal and could just go with zerk on bottom and just hand pump and if it starts to get tight stop pumping if the grease looks good and not water/trash is seen. If your lucky and all looks go on the look sea then what then were topping off so to speak not trying to change out the grease. Myself to do it right as said above by catterepairman lift the whole back end and retorque. When I pull the caps I do hope it is looking good and just needs new grease and retorque. Would seem like a zerk in the cap would be the way to push /change the grease better than the stock set up. I could take the zrek out of the cap after greasing and see if I could find a small rounded head screw if I was off roading / realy worried about knocking it off. If I do get the truck up to spec she will be just a garage queen but looking good and ready too go so the cap zerk will stay if I decide to put one in.

 

[rustystud]

Hey Rusty, please.... think - then post! Orren has it right.

That seal that you say "would get blown out..." It is the very same seal as the inner ones on the wheel hubs: NSN 5330-00-891-7826.
I think it was in the late sixties when they did that upgrade with the sleeve bearings, to replace those (weak) #392 tapered bearings. But the seal itself remained unchanged, even for the M35A3.

Due to its design it already acts as a big relief valve in itself, so there is no need for any extra relief valve.
The only thing that will happen if you pump too much grease in - either at the original spot or via an additional zerk on the cap - is that all excess will come out in between the seat and the bracket. And actually that helps to flush the whole assembly and carry any accumulated moisture and debris back out. It also ensures that the felt packing stays oily and the shaft doesn't corrode so fast.

Well I did think before posting. I blew out that seal when I first did the conversion. Without the "relief" the seal blew out like a cork in a bottle of seltzer when I was pumping in the grease.
So why in the world would you say to me "think before posting" ? You got something to say to me ? Or you just like dogging me ? I have a picture I can post if you don't believe me, which I'm sure I will have to dig out as you don't seem to believe anything I say anymore.
Just another thing for you to consider Gerhard. Why in the world would the military say to install the zerk in the bottom of the trunnion and then "LOOSEN" the cap before pumping in grease ? If as you say no damage would happen to that seal then WHY go to all that bother ?
As it was I had to remove all my wheels and trunnion assembly to replace that stupid seal !
I guess I had a defective seal according to you.

I forgot to add my seal was a hard "plastic" type seal. Not some felt seal.

 

[frank8003]

Found some things that apply to this, maybe?


another from"G"