Starter Holes

[YatYas1833]

Hello,

DPO left me with a problem to deal with on my m1008. The outside starter bolt hole is worn out, its about 3/8 at the deepest point and 1/2 worn at the bottom of the hole. Im aware of the front brace and have one now, so no worries. But they had a helicoil already in this hole that failed, leading me to believe the hole is too far gone for that. Options being,
,,
1. Utilize EZ lock threaded inserts in the hole with an ID of 10x1.5 and an ID of 1/2
2. Rejam an m10x1.5 helicoil and hope they did it wrong
3. Buy the Time Sert m10x1.5 kit and try. It drills the hole out to 15/32, so it may suffice for deep in the hole. Just don't want to spend the 100 dollars for something that MAY work.
4. Mig weld the hole up? Ive never done cast iron, but i suppose i could heat it up and fill it back
5. Buy the m11 Time Sert kit and drill the starter housing to fit the larger bolt.

There is a ton of threads on this, but none mention the EZ lock or what to do if the helicoil doesn't work out. Any ideas, no trashing the engine isn't an option

 

[Welder1]

What ever you do don't try and weld up the block. You will just make a mess and ruin it. Welding cast iron usually never goes well.



Eddie

 

[cucvrus]

I have encountered this a few times. Only once it was on a truck with a badly damaged hole. I pulled the engine put it on a stand and delivered it to an automotive machine shop. It was there 3 days and cost $475. but it was perfect and I used the truck for 20 years as a snow plow truck. So it cost a few bucks and a few hours work up front but I never had an issue with it again. Just imagine it chews 2 flywheels/flexplates. With starters at about $200. each it quickly becomes a no win. Do it right or pay someone to do it right. No half fast work. It always lets you down. Magic Wand not included. Good Luck.

 

[dependable]

How far did they get helicoil up in hole? I had to install one on a old 6.2, and I drilled hole a little deeper and got helicoil up further, if I recall, had plenty of thread engaged.

I know someone who attempted to drill his out bigger, and he ended up trashing the motor. It is possible to drill strait and true from under the truck, but also easy to mess it up.

Not familiar with some of the other products you mentioned, but safest bet is to pull the motor, even if a pita.

If you do manage to repair it, suggest you use a gear reduction starter with its proper end brace, and new bolts of course. Not to argue gear reduction is better(plenty of threads for that) but the lighter weight is worth it if you have damaged starter mount.

 

[gringeltaube]

I was able to save an otherwise good engine, after someone had already buggered up one of the holes, trying to remove a broken bolt.
No helicoil in the world would have worked, in this case. But drilling out/threading both holes to accept 9/16"×18×L 1-1/2" full-thread bolts (pre-drilled & threaded to M10×1.5) did the trick.
Bolts were installed with Loctite 271 of course and then cut and filed flush to the block surface.
The whole job was done on a fully assembled engine, put upside-down on a pallet jack. Holes were enlarged with just a hand power-drill, with the help of a fixture to ensure correct C-C distance and perpendicularity.
This is not something I would like to do with the engine still in the vehicle, though...

 

[cucvrus]

I see you had the engine pulled out. That is a very smart move. Best way to get the best job. Looks like that is how they should have been attached in the first place. That little pair of M10 bolts has its work cut out for it on a diesel. Considering that is the same size bolt they used on a Chevette 1.6 starter. And the Chevette had a flange mounted starter. Huge difference to this V8 block mounted starter. Good deal.

 

[nyoffroad]

I was able to save an otherwise good engine, after someone had already buggered up one of the holes, trying to remove a broken bolt.
No helicoil in the world would have worked, in this case. But drilling out/threading both holes to accept 9/16"×18×L 1-1/2" full-thread bolts (pre-drilled & threaded to M10×1.5) did the trick.
Bolts were installed with Loctite 271 of course and then cut and filed flush to the block surface.
The whole job was done on a fully assembled engine, put upside-down on a pallet jack. Holes were enlarged with just a hand power-drill, with the help of a fixture to ensure correct C-C distance and perpendicularity.
This is not something I would like to do with the engine still in the vehicle, though...
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NICE!! great way to save a block, make your own threaded sleeve. Excellent idea and work. I've got a good engine with a broken starter ear that was welded back on just a tiny bit off, guess how I'm going to fix it?