Roadside lug nut tool options...

[Elijah95]

Excellent points! Also, a minor factor to consider there is a major difference between dry torque and wet torque, meaning your best friend is lots of lube coming off and some lube going back on. It’ll help protect threads cutting paint and help achieve proper torque going back on


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[Floridianson]

Thanks to our member juanprado. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/military-vehicle-lug-nut-torque-specs.126879/

 

[topo]

Ken tool 30609 1 1/2 cap nut wrench or called a porkchop . When running dual wheels and the in side nut comes of with the out side nut .

 

[MTVR]

When at a place to buy stuff get a small can of paint remover, your choice, experience tells. If you have painted threads then loose that and run your nuts off and back on to torque before you ever leave the house.

It is not nice to overpower those good threads with paint on them.

I like that!

 

[frank8003]

Bet it is close to 500 foot pounds with just a couple drops of oil.

Yeah all the TM I saw said to use 30W motor oil, new clean stuff, not anything else.
But what do I know. I just do what it is the TM says, even use GAA as that is what it says to use where it says to use it. Doesn't say anything about NAPA .

 

[MTVR]

Lug nut breaker-looser kit showed up today...

 

[MTVR]

The kit came with 32mm and 33mm sockets.


Any input on what works best for a breaker bar? Do you prefer sliding T-handle, or flex head? For this much torque, I'm assuming that I'm gonna need a cheater bar too...

 

[simp5782]

The kit came with 32mm and 33mm sockets.


Any input on what works best for a breaker bar? Do you prefer sliding T-handle, or flex head? For this much torque, I'm assuming that I'm gonna need a cheater bar too...

Cheater for what? The torque multiplier is the Cheater. It turns 1/8 a turn on the lug for every 20 turns of the handle

 

[MTVR]

For tightening them up afterwards...

 

[Elijah95]

For tightening them up afterwards...

Tighten with the torque multiplier or Milwaukee m18 fuel 1/2 1500 ft ib loosen 500 tighten it works i live by it

KISS Keep it stupid simple


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[MTVR]

Wow. Okay. So do I just calculate the correct torque based upon the gear ratio of the torque multiplier?

 

[Elijah95]

I’ve met a handful of people that torque to spec....

You learn pretty quickly to torque by feel, come to georgia I’ll spend a weekend teaching you every single thing you want to know about our trucks. I’ve rebuilt and repaired nearly every moving part on my M923A2, including a head gasket job, power steering pump rebuild, hubs, CTIS systems, the list is massive. Some people will sit here and argue about torque specs but honestly if “500” is the torque spec 450-800 will normally work fine. We can get into metallurgic fatigue and hundred of other factors


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[Floridianson]

Yea with my truck four way and cheater bar I would say I am close to specs. Would seem like what we are looking for is all nuts to be consistent. If we were working in a shop then bring out the correct torque wrench too cover our Donkey. Myself I like cool tools.

 

[simp5782]

Like the marines do it. Well those that aren't gorillas.

 

[Castle Bravo]

I have a Milwaukee 2767 1/2" drive 18v impact gun that is my primary lug nut removal tool.

Both of my trucks have a Chicago Pneumatic 3/4" drive air gun, a 3/4" breaker bar, the BII lug nut wrench with a longer than normal bar, and a cheater pipe to slip over whatever if I need it. Trucks with duals should carry a pork chop. I'm a big fan of having two bottle jacks.

Once the truck is yours, home from recovery, etc - Remove all lugnuts, clean, reinstall correctly, etc. Then you are sure they're not on there tighter than you can manage when the unexpected happens in the future. If your shop tools are not the same ones you carry on the truck, it's probably wise to use the tools you carry on the truck to change a tire at home at least once - make sure everything works correctly.

I don't have much MTVR experience, but something important on the HET and PLS is that the lug studs are so close to the planetary hub, that many regular walled impact sockets do not fit between the lug nut and the hub. I have a Snap-on 3/4" drive 1-1/2" thin wall deep impact socket that fits. Proto, Grey Pneumatic, Sunex, etc make such sockets in many sizes. Given that the MTVR has planetary axles, this may be of consequence.

@simp5782 , the HET is hub piloted and uses 38mm lug nuts.

 

[simp5782]

I have a Milwaukee 2767 1/2" drive 18v impact gun that is my primary lug nut removal tool.

Both of my trucks have a Chicago Pneumatic 3/4" drive air gun, a 3/4" breaker bar, the BII lug nut wrench with a longer than normal bar, and a cheater pipe to slip over whatever if I need it. Trucks with duals should carry a pork chop. I'm a big fan of having two bottle jacks.

Once the truck is yours, home from recovery, etc - Remove all lugnuts, clean, reinstall correctly, etc. Then you are sure they're not on there tighter than you can manage when the unexpected happens in the future. If your shop tools are not the same ones you carry on the truck, it's probably wise to use the tools you carry on the truck to change a tire at home at least once - make sure everything works correctly.

I don't have much MTVR experience, but something important on the HET and PLS is that the lug studs are so close to the planetary hub, that many regular walled impact sockets do not fit between the lug nut and the hub. I have a Snap-on 3/4" drive 1-1/2" thin wall deep impact socket that fits. Proto, Grey Pneumatic, Sunex, etc make such sockets in many sizes. Given that the MTVR has planetary axles, this may be of consequence.

@simp5782 , the HET is hub piloted and uses 38mm lug nuts.

Yea I think I rember having to use a 1-5/8 or something like that on the PLS when I went up with Ron. Cause thats all I had

 

[MTVR]

I’ve met a handful of people that torque to spec....

You learn pretty quickly to torque by feel,

Yeah. I'm probably not gonna be using a torque wrench set to 500 pounds to do the final torque. I've been torquing lug nuts by feel for decades- but I've always done it with a breaker bar, not a torque multiplier.

So are you using the torque multiplier to try to torque them by feel, or are you using a breaker bar?

 

[Elijah95]

I’m probably going to get the peanut gallery blasting on me again, but how I’ve torqued with one of them is start all nuts, snug up in proper sequence, tighten 1 & 2 in sequence down tight; how I find “tight” where it’s a deuce, 5 ton, 7 ton, is the same. Tighten until that tool gets tough to turn, don’t go crazy, at a certain point it will begin to not turn the socket as fast, you’ll feel it binding more, stop turning and see if the handle wants to kick back opposite. If it kicks back 3/4 of a handle turn stop, do that with all nuts, then start back at 1 and go through them all making sure they are uniform.

You’re exploiting the bolt stretch point and stopping before the max yield. Doing this method and checking with a torque wrench has GENERALLY netted me a 50-80 ft ib over spec. It’s a touch-feel thing, and if not done correct, you’ll stretch studs and lose a wheel when they break.

**I don’t recommend my method, but it works great for me, and I’ve never had a problem. Your mileage may vary**


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[MTVR]

Thanks, Elijah...

 

[MTVR]

...I'm still gonma want something faster than the torque multiplier, for spinning them on and off after they're broken loose. What is the tool of choice there? Star wrench? Flex-head breaker bar? Sliding T-handle breaker bar? Ratchet?