Fan Clutch O-Rings - 24 volt fan options?

[McSpeed]

Noticed my otherwise flawless fan clutch is weeping fluid. I've found a possible rebuild kit around $200 and noted these things tend to be out of stock or stupid expensive in the $500 plus range, When I replaced the water pump I put a close fit o-ring from in my shop in the front nose where the hose bolts in as the original was cracked and dead. It clearly didn't work long term. I took the truck on a very long ride last week that likely finished it off.

So...does anybody know where to get just the o-rings? And or - let's talk about a 24 volt electric fan. Plenty out there. Should be room to mount it in the opening once the stock fan and clutch are gone, I just hate doing that if I could come up with $20 worth of the two front o-rings and be done with it.

Thoughts?

 

[frank8003]

Post the TM with the fan in it
Is this the 19" ten blade fan?
O-ring "packing" is probably 50 cents each but I need numbers of the TM.
The o-ring cross section is 0.139"

Ross wants 5 bucks each for an o-ring

https://store.rossairworks.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=3018-01265-01&catlist=10&parent=3

There is 10 on the eBay but they want $2.59 each but $8.25 shipping.
Gee I wish I could pad the shipping like that.

 

[McSpeed]

Post the TM with the fan in it
O-rig "packing" is probably 50 cents each but I need numbers of the TM

I’m sorry frank. Not sure what you mean. You think the oring size is in the technical manual?
I am terrible at locating info in those.

 

[frank8003]

Everything is in the TM's EVERYTHING
Goto TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 figure 34 and the next page gives the ID of part #6 and its NSN and part number
If you would like to know how I did that in 3 minutes send a conversation and I will tell you.
O-rings are not rocket science but wherever one is used anywhere in anything anywhere in the world the replacement must be the exact same flavor as the original.

This might be it P/N: 5740249
Dimensions: 2-3/8" outer diameter, 0.139" ring diameter
It may be a "metric" O-Ring

 

[McSpeed]

Everything is in the TM's EVERYTHING
Goto TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 figure 34 and the next page gives the ID of part #6 and its NSN and part number
If you would like to know how I did that in 3 minutes send a conversation and I will tell you.
O-rings are not rocket science but wherever one is used anywhere in anything anywhere in the world the replacement must be the exact same flavor as the original.

This might be it P/N: 5740249
Dimensions: 2-3/8" outer diameter, 0.139" ring diameter
It may be a "metric" O-Ring

I will send you a note tomorrow. I’d love to learn how to search and use the TM.

 

[Coug]

I will send you a note tomorrow. I’d love to learn how to search and use the TM.

Using Adobe reader makes it pretty easy, you just have to use the "find" function and type in the word you are looking for. It helps if you know the actual military name, but if you know a basic description or the name of a part in the assembly it narrows it down a lot.

 

[McSpeed]

I'm not feeling confident that I can match an O-ring from that TM info. I can of course take them out and go to Napa and see if they have anything to match up. There are only two on the front cup as I remember - one pretty small and one bigger one. I can also unplug the relay and just lock it all the time where there is no flow so the leak does't create any more immediate mess. About the time I was thinking...finally...the truck is working flawless and I can rely on it and not worry about it for a while...it starts leaking.

 

[McSpeed]

I've looked at various 24 volt fan kits. It doesn't seem any of them move the CFM that would be needed. Most appear best to be used as fan assist as a pusher on top of the cooling stack. I'd prefer to put one large one in the current opening of the mechanical fan. It would be quieter and smoother and zap less power. But could also overheat. I'd only know after spending the $$$ and making the mods to install.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Thinking out loud here

To spin the fan on a HmwV that can move the air needed to cool it takes about 8 horse power. (read that somewhere)

It's no wonder it sounds like a "wind tunnel" when it kicks in and with the drop in HP. (8 HP leaf blower)

All components working as they should (key word) one can see the temperature drop quickly when engaged.

The electric fan concept sounds good at first. One sees it everywhere on modern cars by design (another key word)

You see this in hopped up race cars. Expensive aluminium radiators and electric fans to do the cooling to recover the engine HP to win the race.

Short or long race to the mall, they are moving FAST. HumV not so fast, tippy toeing around land mines or in the slow lane.

To maintain equal cooling CFM with an electric fan set-up (here's where the kicks in) one would need 8 HP of fan motors or a bigger more efficient radiator or both. $$$$$

Thinking spinning 8 HP of electric motors to get the CFM needed has got to come from somewhere. engine = electricity. Nothing is free.

So that HumV system has been around the block a few times and understood by most ???

That two dollar "O" ring sounds like a bargain. IMO

It would be a good project, don't get me wrong, CAMO

 

[McSpeed]

Thinking out loud here

To spin the fan on a HmwV that can move the air needed to cool it takes about 8 horse power. (read that somewhere)

It's no wonder it sounds like a "wind tunnel" when it kicks in and with the drop in HP. (8 HP leaf blower)

All components working as they should (key word) one can see the temperature drop quickly when engaged.

The electric fan concept sounds good at first. One sees it everywhere on modern cars by design (another key word)

You see this in hopped up race cars. Expensive aluminium radiators and electric fans to do the cooling to recover the engine HP to win the race.

Short or long race to the mall, they are moving FAST. HumV not so fast, tippy toeing around land mines or in the slow lane.

To maintain equal cooling CFM with an electric fan set-up (here's where the kicks in) one would need 8 HP of fan motors or a bigger more efficient radiator or both. $$$$$

Thinking spinning 8 HP of electric motors to get the CFM needed has got to come from somewhere. engine = electricity. Nothing is free.

So that HumV system has been around the block a few times and understood by most ???

That two dollar "O" ring sounds like a bargain. IMO

It would be a good project, don't get me wrong, CAMO

You are not wrong. There is a reason for the way that it is. However, I do also have to wonder if there was a high quality electric in place that kicks on around 180 instead of over 200...if that early run on it would be enough to keep the area cool even as the temps around rise.

Also, popping in some o-rings is easier by far than changing the whole assembly.

But, none of us would likely disagree that overall...NOBODY likes the stock set up. It is clunky, load, even dangerous when hood open and working around a running engine...and prone to goofy leaks and failures.

 

[McSpeed]

I also found a full rebuild for the unit on Ebay for $200. But...at least for now I only need the o-rings. Like you said - $2 for o-rings or $200 for the whole kit and the better half of an afternoon to install it - I'll go for the $2!

 

[McSpeed]

Everything is in the TM's EVERYTHING
Goto TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 figure 34 and the next page gives the ID of part #6 and its NSN and part number
If you would like to know how I did that in 3 minutes send a conversation and I will tell you.
O-rings are not rocket science but wherever one is used anywhere in anything anywhere in the world the replacement must be the exact same flavor as the original.

This might be it P/N: 5740249
Dimensions: 2-3/8" outer diameter, 0.139" ring diameter
It may be a "metric" O-Ring

By the way, this is a good part number. Looks to be about $9 - but there is a second one in there I'm not finding. This one is no problem at all. The other one is smaller by far.

 

[frank8003]

Going from very small bit of information and never seen one and trying to help it still took about 7 minutes. Do want my notes?
I found the rebuild kit entire for 26 bucks in the eBay.
Then I stopped all this, golly, I have so much stuff to sell and giveaway.
Send me an email so I can send what I found in the eBay and other places.

 

[DREDnot]

I've looked at various 24 volt fan kits. It doesn't seem any of them move the CFM that would be needed. Most appear best to be used as fan assist as a pusher on top of the cooling stack. I'd prefer to put one large one in the current opening of the mechanical fan. It would be quieter and smoother and zap less power. But could also overheat. I'd only know after spending the $$$ and making the mods to install.

Have you considered retrofitting a conventional viscous fan clutch off of an H1?

Thats my plan if my OEM hydraulic ever cacked out.
I bought a NOS H1 clutch and a derale 19" blade that fits the shroud opening to be installed when the time comes

 

[McSpeed]

Have you considered retrofitting a conventional viscous fan clutch off of an H1?

Thats my plan if my OEM hydraulic ever cacked out.
I bought a NOS H1 clutch and a derale 19" blade that fits the shroud opening to be installed when the time comes

I looked into that. But if memory serves me I needed to have the serpentine belt pulley. Maybe I’m wrong.

 

[frank8003]

Yeah, same thing on a Pontiac I worked on for me one time.
Boy oh Boy if that don't look the same.

It was always good drivin around with all my fixes, until I pulled the boat then she over-heated. Engineers designed things to work like they said it would work,
If it was as they designed it and/at the application specified.
Gee, How much is a whole new one?
I should have just put a new one in that car but I just wanted to go fishin and didn't understand. That car would have done it, gobs of torque but insufficient cooling due to me cutting costs.
Perhaps there is a lesson.

 

[frank8003]

For the amount of money You guys got into these things just ad a few more bucks and put it back stock. Stock PLUS an electric fan of 746 watts wouldn't hurt, You know like one HP all the time for the downsides.
When I was driving the Sunbeam Tiger I knew it needed more cooling and I did research a lot [pre-internet] but cheap applicable DC fans did not come out until years later. Enjoy/install the good stuff We can get now. Additional cooling is cheap now.

 

[frank8003]

You are not wrong. There is a reason for the way that it is. However, I do also have to wonder if there was a high quality electric in place that kicks on around 180 instead of over 200...if that early run on it would be enough to keep the area cool even as the temps around rise.

Also, popping in some o-rings is easier by far than changing the whole assembly.

But, none of us would likely disagree that overall...NOBODY likes the stock set up. It is clunky, load, even dangerous when hood open and working around a running engine...and prone to goofy leaks and failures.

.............and they sent our people off to war with that.

 

[TOBASH]

I've had enough of the fan clutch. I will be removing all the fan hydraulic lines and allowing my fan to go full time. I will cap the portals.

I don't care if I lose a few HP, I won't be at risk for losing hydraulic fluids.

I also won't be installing a visco-elastic fan clutch as previously considered. I don't ford water so why bother?

For the few HP I lose I won't care, and I can get rid of a hydraulic fluid loss risk.

I have run other Diesel engines with full time fans, and I see no real downside as I never drive below 20 degrees F in NYC, and never below 10 degrees F in Vermont and Pennsylvania when I go skiing.

I can always place a plastic board limiting air ingress in the Winter.

Stupid hydraulic system with an easy fix.

In the future, if I go water fording, I can place a visco-elastic fan clutch with a reverse spin-off fan that is easily removable, like what is on My '03 Durango.

Best,

T

 

[Milcommoguy]

You are not wrong. There is a reason for the way that it is. However, I do also have to wonder if there was a high quality electric in place that kicks on around 180 instead of over 200...if that early run on it would be enough to keep the area cool even as the temps around rise.

Also, popping in some o-rings is easier by far than changing the whole assembly.

But, none of us would likely disagree that overall...NOBODY likes the stock set up. It is clunky, load, even dangerous when hood open and working around a running engine...and prone to goofy leaks and failures.

Back with the thinking cap on

Shouldn't be a problem to add an electric fan to the HumV. Lots of room on top or even in the fan shroud box. Adding another temperature switch of your design range easy too, even a manual override switch.

Again not so sure why Diesel engines like, need, are happier (scientific terms) when operating at design temps. Sure heat can be the destroyer of any engine. The HumV system IMO and after a couple of go around - headaches is like you said "is what it is". Could have been better designed, but now that "WE" understand each other (lol) I LIKE IT.

In my world (scary) driving down the road is more like "piloting" down the road. Eyes on the road, eyes on the gauges, eyes back on road and repeat. OH... left off... check the turn signals, listen for the thump, clinks and clanks, smell for the smoke, while trying to smile big for the Karen that cut you off !!!

Best to have fully functioning, trusted and verified accurate gauges. That sentence could be an oxymoron, but is doable. As for the temperature gauge get one with the over-temp red LED and matching sender.

Other little modification, screw in a 250 degree temp switch, wired to a loud buzzer or a light. That could work YEP.

And to the ".............and they sent our people off to war with that". I wondered that too. Have read many books on it. Looked good at the time. Overtime ...not so much.

So I am I better quit while ahead, CAMO