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MEP-803a "click" no start

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emndive

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Hi all,
I've been reading several other posts and this seems to be a somewhat frequent post but I still can't find by answer. Just took delivery of a MEP-803a re powered engine with 4.6 hours. Clean machine! I am unable to get it running with the "S1" switch. Fuel pump kicks on and I noticed the fuel shut off solenoid stays in the CLOSED position. I can manually start with the engine crank switch in the engine compartment- hold the fuel solenoid open (pushed on) and then switch the engine switch to NORMAL and machine runs fine. I poked around circuit breaker and fuse are good. I read on another post about S1 pin 7 having 24 volts. I'm only getting 12ish volts with fully charged batteries. I can put S1 in run mode and jump the starter solenoid and it starts right up and it also pulls the fuel shut off solenoid in and runs fine. Suggestions...... "S1" switch? As always thank you
 
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emndive

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Boston
Pulled the top off and tightened/ cleaned everything. Everything looks nice and new. The solenoid (silver much like a ford starter solenoid) under the top cover is getting 24V in and only about 15V out. I'm still unable to get any voltage to the starter "trigger" wire #113B12.
 
J

jamawieb

Well-known member
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Usually S1 is the problem. Which version of the switch do you have? There were 3 different styles, 2 that included a blue plastic housing and 1 (the best) that is round and all metal.
 
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emndive

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its The all metal switch. Any idea where the white starter solenoid wire come from? Does it run from the dead crank switch?
 
Last edited:
J

jamawieb

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Ok, more than likely S1 is not the problem. The fuel cutoff solenoid does not retract until you go to start, then it retracts and the starter engages. Are you 100% sure the batteries are good. I 've had a couple with similar problem and figured out it was a dead cell in a battery. The initial amperage to retract the fuel cutoff solenoid, power the fuel pump and engage the starter is tremendous. They will start with the dead crank switch fine but when using the main switch (S1) it would just click.
 
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emndive

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Boston
I’ll report back in AM. I have both batteries charging over night. Didn’t realize the dead crank start was less draw verses S1 but makes perfect sense now. Thank u. I’ll lost first thing tmr
 
B

Bmxenbrett

Member
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NY
If you have 24v going into a component and 15v coming out i wouls say thats a good place to start and you most likely dont have a dead cell.

There are diodes that supply voltage to the s1 behind the gauge pannel.
 
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emndive

New member
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Location
Boston
WELL.......... I feel like an idiot. After charging batteries overnight it was obvious one of them was bad. Installed a new battery this AM and she started right up. Thanks for all the help guys, you're like tech support on steroids! Hopefully I won't need this generator this winter!
 
Light in the Dark

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
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You aren't the first to experience befuddlement due to low voltage on batteries, wont be the last either. Make sure you keep them topped off during the cold months ahead. Also you should really consider rodent proofing your set, if you have not done so yet.
 
Light in the Dark

Light in the Dark

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I use 1/4" hardware cloth on the underside, with self tapping sheet metal screws. If you want to bullet proof it, do the air intakes on the sides, and figure out how to delete the 'sock' at the wire entrance with something that a rodent cant climb/chew through.
 
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