SHC35 and SHC60 Battery

[Poccur]

Found this. It allows a SHC heater with a dead battery to jump it from a 24v NATO connector on any MIL vehicle...or you can use another 24vDC supply...

You connect cable between battery and SHC heater, once it is up and running you can disconnect and reconnect the battery directly and continue to use the heater. It fools the heater into starting and away you go...

 

[Mullaney]

Found this. It allows a SHC heater with a dead battery to jump it from a 24v NATO connector on any MIL vehicle...or you can use another 24vDC supply...

You connect cable between battery and SHC heater, once it is up and running you can disconnect and reconnect the battery directly and continue to use the heater. It fools the heater into starting and away you go...

.
That's Cool!

Even more so if I had the Jump Box and a 35k or 60k space heater.
Simple civilians called them a torpedo or bullet heater.

Most likely I would choke when I got a price - but it really is a neat idea!

 

[Third From Texas]

These guys will run off a couple 12v 8ah batteries. I have to spoof the battery temp sensor and the battery heater (working on a solution that will use the same components, but as those who have these know the batteries are epoxied into the pack along with the sensor and heating element).

I have to wait until after dark to work on mine. The thing refuses to start above 90 degrees, LOL

 

[Third From Texas]

The battery pack consists of two rows of 6 x 2v. It's still only a 12v pack (two 12v batteries that are not even in parallel) .

It is NOT a 24v system!

There are separate leads to each battery (r+, blk- and w+ grn-). Two white wires for the heating element, and two brown wires for the temp sensor.

Powering the unit is a simple task (12v 8ah to red+ and blk- and a 12v 8ah to white+ and green -).

The kicker is that you can extract the heating element of temp sensor from the epoxy. Replacing the two items shouldn't be difficult if we can sort out the specs on them.

I fired both of mine up this evening (my neighbors are freaking that I was running a jet engine, LMAO). Plus it was like 95 here today, so I may be nuts but I'll be damned if Texas freezes again and I'm not ready). ;p



Here's the battery guts. You can see I simply clipped the leads and bypassed to my two 12v 8ah Interstates. The temp sensor and heating element are technically still there (just not on the operational batteries). The orange divider running down the center is the heating element.




And here are the leads. Red, big white are pos; blk and grn are neg; the brown are to the temp sensor (it monitors the batteries ambient temp and tells the controller to fire up the heating element as needed); and the two small white leads go to the heating element itself.

 

[Third From Texas]

I also need to figure out the output on the internal charger. These things keep the batteries topped off via a thermal generator that spins with the generated heat. Pretty cool stuff. But I'm not sure what effect various sized batteries would have on the charging system (that's why I stayed with smaller amp hour batteries). Well that and they will fit in the tray.

But I think it will be doable.

1) Find/fab an enclosure for the new batteries
2) Find a temp sensor that will work
3) Find a heating element
4) Confirm that the charging system can maintain the provided batteries
5) Install fuses (each battery has it's own fuse in the batter pack but in-line will do)

 

[Third From Texas]

.
That's Cool!

Even more so if I had the Jump Box and a 35k or 60k space heater.
Simple civilians called them a torpedo or bullet heater.

Most likely I would choke when I got a price - but it really is a neat idea!

They've been selling for around $100 on GP. Many with very low hours (both mine have under 20). The buggers are the ones with no controllers, but most coming out of NVegas have shown to be intact.

Ideally, I'd have a 35K if I could find one (the 60K is a beast to lug around). I love the fact that they are 100% self-contained, though. I looked at a lot of types of various surplus heaters and settled on these. A lot of tech in them that can fail, though.

 

[ZiggyO]

You know I already make a battery adapter for these-- it addresses the temp sensor and heating element issues----- I don't advertise as much as I should but several members here have bought them......

Anyway, battery size does not matter as long as they are matched relative to one another (i.e. don't use a group 31 with a lawnmower battery)---- the heater looks at charge rates and if it sees an imbalance, it will throw a code and shut down-- it may not do it right away but it will happen sooner or later.

Z

 

[Third From Texas]

You know I already make a battery adapter for these-- it addresses the temp sensor and heating element issues----- I don't advertise as much as I should but several members here have bought them......

Anyway, battery size does not matter as long as they are matched relative to one another (i.e. don't use a group 31 with a lawnmower battery)---- the heater looks at charge rates and if it sees an imbalance, it will throw a code and shut down-- it may not do it right away but it will happen sooner or later.

Z

I didn't know you made those. PM me a price if you will. No sense reinventing the wheel if I can afford it.

 

[Third From Texas]

Tinkering with bits.

Here's the specs on the heating element

14.5v 105w

It's far more wattage than I would have imagined for a "battery heater". I have some 7w pads coming and they should do fine for when it sits out in a South Texas Winter (aka the month of February) but there are all sorts of wattages available.




My heat sensor is dead so I can't check the resistance, but I did what someone in another thread said and ordered a sensor from a 2005 Ford E-series. Will just have to see if it works. The Ford sensor looks to be sitting at 17 ohms.

 

[Mullaney]

Tinkering with bits.

Here's the specs on the heating element

14.5v 105w

It's far more wattage than I would have imagined for a "battery heater". I have some 7w pads coming and they should do fine for when it sits out in a South Texas Winter (aka the month of February) but there are all sorts of wattages available.

View attachment 842431


My heat sensor is dead so I can't check the resistance, but I did what someone in another thread said and ordered a sensor from a 2005 Ford E-series. Will just have to see if it works. The Ford sensor looks to be sitting at 17 ohms.

View attachment 842432

.
That is interesting! We have pads like that to fit into a plate processing machine. In the machine we have, it isn't very deep but the heating element sits in a chemical (water and other stuff). These heating pads are submersible. Attaching these particular pads to power will "smoke" them if they are not completely covered with liquid. That is a $125 + Shipping mistake in our case.

Can I be nosy and ask what size these battery heating pads are?
Then based on my other babbling above - what happens if the battery heater gets wet?

 

[Third From Texas]

The pad that was in the battery box was just slipped between the two rows of cells as in the pics above. Once I pried the batteries lose the pad didn't have much footing in the epoxy.

This is the 7w element I ordered. My plan was to use one under each battery.

Icstation 12V 7W Flexible Polyimide Heater Plate Adhesive PI Heating Film 25mmx50mm (Pack of 4) - - Amazon.com

Icstation 12V 7W Flexible Polyimide Heater Plate Adhesive PI Heating Film 25mmx50mm (Pack of 4) - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[Third From Texas]

My plan at this stage is to place the two SLA batteries in a Harbor Freight case. I'll re-purpose the box-mounted fuse holders and connector from the OEM battery.

I kind of like the idea of keeping the battery box external to the heater (the damned thing is heavy enough to drag around w/o the battery).

1800 Weatherproof Protective Case, Small, Black

Amazing deals on this 1800 Weatherproof Protective Case Small at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Mullaney]

The pad that was in the battery box was just slipped between the two rows of cells as in the pics above. Once I pried the batteries lose the pad didn't have much footing in the epoxy.

This is the 7w element I ordered. My plan was to use one under each battery.

Icstation 12V 7W Flexible Polyimide Heater Plate Adhesive PI Heating Film 25mmx50mm (Pack of 4) - - Amazon.com

Icstation 12V 7W Flexible Polyimide Heater Plate Adhesive PI Heating Film 25mmx50mm (Pack of 4) - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

.
Guessing you have a plan for a controller on the elements below the batteries?
Max Temp of 212f might be a little warm without something to control them.
Would be interesting what you picked for that job.

 

[Third From Texas]

.
Guessing you have a plan for a controller on the elements below the batteries?
Max Temp of 212f might be a little warm without something to control them.
Would be interesting what you picked for that job.

Still reading up in the Op and Repair manual how the unit regulates the exiting OEM pad.

For one of my two heaters I will use the OEM element (it's still good).

 

[Third From Texas]

Annnnnnd


Horror Freight was out of the small knockoff Pelican cases.

I was looking at alternatives there when It dawned on me, I have lots of them in the supply room. A 50cal can is just wide enough to hold a pair side-by-side. An 7.26 can is the perfect width for the batteries, but not long enough for two.

LOL

 

[Deals7]

You know I already make a battery adapter for these-- it addresses the temp sensor and heating element issues----- I don't advertise as much as I should but several members here have bought them......

Anyway, battery size does not matter as long as they are matched relative to one another (i.e. don't use a group 31 with a lawnmower battery)---- the heater looks at charge rates and if it sees an imbalance, it will throw a code and shut down-- it may not do it right away but it will happen sooner or later.

Z

Hi ZiggyO, my Friend and I are really in need of a couple of these battery/bypass setups. We just want heat, doesn't matter if we need to charge the battery once in a while. Can we buy 4 of these from you? Sure would appreciate it.

I can buy any parts you need and have them sent to you if it helps.....

Thanks, Scott-
Santa Rosa, CA

 

[Deals7]

The battery pack consists of two rows of 6 x 2v. It's still only a 12v pack (two 12v batteries that are not even in parallel) .

It is NOT a 24v system!

There are separate leads to each battery (r+, blk- and w+ grn-). Two white wires for the heating element, and two brown wires for the temp sensor.

Powering the unit is a simple task (12v 8ah to red+ and blk- and a 12v 8ah to white+ and green -).

The kicker is that you can extract the heating element of temp sensor from the epoxy. Replacing the two items shouldn't be difficult if we can sort out the specs on them.

I fired both of mine up this evening (my neighbors are freaking that I was running a jet engine, LMAO). Plus it was like 95 here today, so I may be nuts but I'll be damned if Texas freezes again and I'm not ready). ;p

View attachment 842024

Here's the battery guts. You can see I simply clipped the leads and bypassed to my two 12v 8ah Interstates. The temp sensor and heating element are technically still there (just not on the operational batteries). The orange divider running down the center is the heating element.


View attachment 842025

And here are the leads. Red, big white are pos; blk and grn are neg; the brown are to the temp sensor (it monitors the batteries ambient temp and tells the controller to fire up the heating element as needed); and the two small white leads go to the heating element itself.

View attachment 842026

Hi , about to start wiring 2 12v batteries and all the wires. Thanks for the connection list but where does the charge controller plug in, it has the same size plug as the one on the heater itself, male or female. Does it need to be spliced into the wiring or added standalone to the batteries?

 

[Third From Texas]

You need a 9-pin male Molex plug:

Making your own Shc-35 battery pack? This helps!

Heres the connector and sockets for the battery pack you can get from Mouser electronics 538-36648-0006 and 538-02-08-1004, I will make a drawing of what wire goes where later but if you open the lid on heater you can see it pretty easy, there is a grayish/white which is pos of battery one, and...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Deals7]

Shutting down after spinning the fan with an error code. Could be no fuel but not sure that I have the heat sensor and the heat element hooked up right,.

Dang, all day.

 

[Third From Texas]

Wire it according to the info up-thread and in others (either with the heater/sensor combo or the resister which will delete the heater/sensor).

Battery 01: 14 gauge red+/blk-
Battery 02: 14 gauge wht+/grn-
18 gauge brown is the thermo sensor loop (sensor or resister inline)
18 gauge white is the heating element loop (inline if used)

I'm not certain if the pinout is in the TM but it looks like this on the battery plug.

*this is how mine is wired but I take no responsibility if it's not correct for others


*viewed from the connector-side (front)