• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Charlie's Deuce Thread

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
Monday update: Waiting on seals to come in I decided to pull in the other Deuce and replace the leaking wheel cylinder. Pulled the wheel and it was not the cylinder but the axle seal. What are the odds that both trucks right rear would leak. This one isn't as bad though. Lucky I ordered 6 seals! Both had the cork and OEM style seal. How do you tell if the seal itself is bad?
 
  • Like
Reactions: HDN

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
Forgot to include pics.
This one was clean as the hub holes were clear.


This was the mucked up one. I am still trying to figure out how the brakes are working with no air pressure. Looking at the cam adjusters I turned them in to get the hub off but they are not retracting fully? I only have to press the pedal an inch or so and I have brakes. If the Air assist chamber is stuck, how does that affect the brakes?
 

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
Friday update:
Both deuces I greased the bearings and installed new seals on the right rear. Test drive everything seems to be working OK. Need to look further into the brakes on the white deuce, I guess I need to pull the air chamber to see if it is stuck.
 

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
I needed to replace my wiper blades and at Carquest I found some Trico 11-1 blades that I thought would work.
The carrier that attaches to the support arm has a slot in it that would slide over the metal end that the OEM blade attaches to. I used a dremel to remove a small piece of plastic on either side of the slot and bam! They slide on and snap. No need to modify the OEM arm. I am sure you all figured out this long ago!
These were $8 a piece so pretty cheap
Here is the piece with the plastic that needs to be removed


Finished piece


Mounted!
 

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
Sorry for the delay, Covid hit my family before Christmas and we have been under the weather for a while.
Took advantage of the warm weather here in VA and power washed both trucks again. Amazing how much grime there is on them.
The Red truck I cleaned and sealed any holes in the Cab top and painted it with Por15. Used a small foam roller that worked well. Sprayed the entire underside and bed with a catalyst for rust. Set that truck aside for later.
Brought the white one in to the shop (Wish I had a big enough shop to put it inside) and decided to tackle the front boots. They were toast. This truck has a lot of clingy sand on it that is a pain to deal with but at least its not clay!
Both UV joints had grease and it was grit free and water free amazing enough. From the amount of grease slung around I thought they would have been dry. I was hesitant to do this job but it hasn't been bad so far. Waiting on new boots from Rockwell Offroad.
Axle oil was milky though so I drained that and put in new 80-90w. I need to get a small pump for oil transfer.
These trucks are Nickle and Diming me! Make me wonder if I should have purchased the nicer truck instead.

 

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
Forgot to mention I rolled down the driver window and it went clunk and the hand crank just free wheeled. I could pull the window up but it wouldn't engage. Took the access cover off and couldn't see much but eventually got the scissor frame down and one of the sides was off. Put that back together and it cranks now all the way up but only comes half the way down. It like it gets jammed. I can't see much so I have no idea what is getting stuck. The TM diagram shows the parts so I guess I will have to tackle that when it gets warmer again, snow today so back to winter!
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,724
19,772
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Sorry for the delay, Covid hit my family before Christmas and we have been under the weather for a while.
Took advantage of the warm weather here in VA and power washed both trucks again. Amazing how much grime there is on them.
The Red truck I cleaned and sealed any holes in the Cab top and painted it with Por15. Used a small foam roller that worked well. Sprayed the entire underside and bed with a catalyst for rust. Set that truck aside for later.
Brought the white one in to the shop (Wish I had a big enough shop to put it inside) and decided to tackle the front boots. They were toast. This truck has a lot of clingy sand on it that is a pain to deal with but at least its not clay!
Both UV joints had grease and it was grit free and water free amazing enough. From the amount of grease slung around I thought they would have been dry. I was hesitant to do this job but it hasn't been bad so far. Waiting on new boots from Rockwell Offroad.
Axle oil was milky though so I drained that and put in new 80-90w. I need to get a small pump for oil transfer.
These trucks are Nickle and Diming me! Make me wonder if I should have purchased the nicer truck instead.

.
Dang... Yessir, I do believe those boots were due for a change-out.

I saw somebody here post the old adage about boats: "A Hole In The Water Into Which You Pour Money". Seems sometimes that these big green (and white and red) are the same way. Looking at those boots, your truck is a lot like mine. They have been neglected over the years - and it will take years to whip them back into shape.

Thing is, with lots of time and a short stack of money they will be ready to go play one day soon... On a lighter note, at least you and I can fix our trucks. Some of these folks that hire that work would really be paying the big bucks to fix some of these things!
 

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
And I have used a roll of shop towels and several used bath towels to clean both hubs out. Gobs of grease! Cleaned and Labeled and separated each sides parts. Also ordered a 5 gallon pail of Lucas tacky red grease. $139 ouch.... Add that to the $80 for 5 gallons 80-90w and $88 worth of parts cleaner
 

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
True, I don't mind working on them, just have to figure things out and do it. It will be done one day and less of a hassle. Luckily I had saved up my fun money from doing odd things for people, so that it funding this project!
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,724
19,772
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Forgot to mention I rolled down the driver window and it went clunk and the hand crank just free wheeled. I could pull the window up but it wouldn't engage. Took the access cover off and couldn't see much but eventually got the scissor frame down and one of the sides was off. Put that back together and it cranks now all the way up but only comes half the way down. It like it gets jammed. I can't see much so I have no idea what is getting stuck. The TM diagram shows the parts so I guess I will have to tackle that when it gets warmer again, snow today so back to winter!
.
At least the window is in the hole!

Those window regulators can generally be cleaned up, greased really well. There are two circular clips that hold the window to the regulator. Those rust away over time... Might need to find new ones - or you might find the old ones in the bottom of the door. A splash of silicone spray in the tracks will help a lot too - if there is any felt left in the track.
 

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
Most of the felt is gone. I have found some odd parts and pieces of stuff at the bottom but those didn't match anything on the diagram. One day my goal is to remove everything and redo it.
 

ldmack3

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
849
1,740
93
Location
N. Central Idaho
I pulled my doors off last winter so I could work them inside. Covered the truck with plastic to keep the snow out. Made it much easier to work. Replaced the regulator, lock, wiper, both tracks, weather stripping and cleaned, lubed and painted. Did some rust repair on the bottom of one. Shot a final coat on the outside once reinstalled when I did the balance of the front end. Also replaced hinge bolts and installed a zerk in the middle section.

Unless you run into issues getting them off, I think this is faster than trying to work in place.

Good luck either way!
 

Attachments

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Sorry for the delay, Covid hit my family before Christmas and we have been under the weather for a while.
Took advantage of the warm weather here in VA and power washed both trucks again. Amazing how much grime there is on them.
The Red truck I cleaned and sealed any holes in the Cab top and painted it with Por15. Used a small foam roller that worked well. Sprayed the entire underside and bed with a catalyst for rust. Set that truck aside for later.
Brought the white one in to the shop (Wish I had a big enough shop to put it inside) and decided to tackle the front boots. They were toast. This truck has a lot of clingy sand on it that is a pain to deal with but at least its not clay!
Both UV joints had grease and it was grit free and water free amazing enough. From the amount of grease slung around I thought they would have been dry. I was hesitant to do this job but it hasn't been bad so far. Waiting on new boots from Rockwell Offroad.
Axle oil was milky though so I drained that and put in new 80-90w. I need to get a small pump for oil transfer.
These trucks are Nickle and Diming me! Make me wonder if I should have purchased the nicer truck instead.

Remember that when you replace the DUST boots to open up the grease "goesoutagh" plug before you grease it. It is the designed GAA outlet hole.
They are dust boots not grease boots. Less grease on the inside of them and the longer they will last.
 

Attachments

Charlie175

Well-known member
192
409
63
Location
VA 22849
Remember that when you replace the DUST boots to open up the grease "goesoutagh" plug before you grease it. It is the designed GAA outlet hole.
They are dust boots not grease boots. Less grease on the inside of them and the longer they will last.
Thanks for the pictures, I will look for that hole.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,724
19,772
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Remember that when you replace the DUST boots to open up the grease "goesoutagh" plug before you grease it. It is the designed GAA outlet hole.
They are dust boots not grease boots. Less grease on the inside of them and the longer they will last.
.
Those are great pictures frank8003 !

The ring that holds the outside of the boot is clearly shown there too Charlie175 .

.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks