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Mav’s M1088A1 Conversion

coachgeo

coachgeo

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Mavcaster said:
yeah just gonna see if I can get a copy printed off on base, these should have a USAF T.O. as well and vehicle maintenance should have access
Click to expand...
if they can... print it to Thumb drive. so you have the files and can share them. Would help sooooooo many people. That is assuming the files are of the models that are approved for public release.
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

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Mavcaster said:
well thumb drives will be a no go but might be able to get some printed then scan them
Click to expand...
yep that would work. Takes a little finageling with settings of scanner... or scan software to scan all to one pdf document with the pages... and a good scanner that can scan front and back but put it all in the right order. Some do this by scan ones side.. use flipper mechanism then scan other (which is more liable to jam) where others do it by software... but those get things out of order when their is blank pages etc.

Then there is software out there that you can then take the single doc pdf and add searchable capability and links. Like in the contents page if you click on a page number it will jump you to that page.... same for index etc.

anyway... glad for you to have that connection. I'm guessing the staff their though may poo poo sharing any of it. Understandably.
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

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GeneralDisorder said:
The A1 and even the A1R TM's do exist in normal PDF format without requiring EMS-NG, etc. It's a matter of finding them and that's not that hard as a veteran if you speak with the right people.
Click to expand...
that is good to hear.... pretty much only PDF have come across outside of EMS-NG is the Operator TM... and its the older A1's. So glad to hear they are in PDF somewhere beside there.
 
Mavcaster

Mavcaster

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So still having an issue with low power and rough idle at times. Sometimes it starts and runs rough and other times it fires right up and runs great. I thought new fuel filters and some new fuel with additive might clear things up but it hasn’t. When it’s running right sometimes it will stutter for half a second and then regain but then could just randomly die but then starts back up normally though. I have replaced the batteries and bled the fuel system multiple times.

For S&Gs I rigged up a pressure gauge and tapped into the fuel port just aft of the fuel filter housing. Priming the bulb I can get up to 10psi as expected but while idling it jumps all the way to 90-95 psi which seems like it could be high? Curious if this could be indicative of a stuck fuel pressure regulator?

Really need to figure out the CEL but waiting on the hardware to read it, just trying to test what I can in the meantime.
 
Last edited:
R

Ronmar

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Mavcaster said:
So still having an issue with low power and rough idle at times. Sometimes it starts and runs rough and other times it fires right up and runs great. I thought new fuel filters and some new fuel with additive might clear things up but it hasn’t. When it’s running right sometimes it will stutter for half a second and then regain but then could just randomly die but then starts back up normally though. I have replaced the batteries and bled the fuel system multiple times.

For S&Gs I rigged up a pressure gauge and tapped into the fuel port just aft of the fuel filter housing. Priming the bulb I can get up to 10psi as expected but while idling it jumps all the way to 90-95 psi which seems like it could be high? Curious if this could be indicative of a stuck fuel pressure regulator?

Really need to figure out the CEL but waiting on the hardware to read it, just trying to test what I can in the meantime.
Click to expand...
oh yeah thats a bad/fouled pressure regulator. You should get 10PSI cranking, 25 PSI at idle and it should shift up to a stable 60PSI as you ramp up the RPM. At any given RPM the pressure should be very stable(once you cancell out the pulsations from the pump with a snubber/restricter. Below is a video of what a small air leak does to the primary fuel pressure.

It is located right on the aft end of the cylinder head. If you remove the output fitting adapter from the PRV block, you should be able to remove a spring and a sliding plunger assembly, and any crud behind that can be pushed out into a bucket by using the primer bulb and or cranking the engine…

 
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