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No problem my friend. It was just a trivial question. I can go to the TM’s to check it out. Thanks!
The fuel line going into the Electronic control. The main supply line to the IP is in the center of the rotary pump, or so I understand. What does this line, with the yellow arrow in the photo, do.
That is a return line for the IP.
Ok I am coming up with a plan on that line. As guyf
Ok seeking wisdom/thoughts on best approach to fix the injector return line to the Electronic control. As you noted earlier it looks as though the return line is out of shape and pinched. It is certainly out if shape. See pic 1.
Yes, it appears to be on the low pressure side. Item #2 in the drawing that you posted…does the represent the actual return line from the IP on your engine? It appears by your photos that this line goes up to between injectors #2 & 3. In the drawing it appears that it goes up the front of the engine, over and then down to between injectors # 2 & 3. In either case, I’m not sure that you can salvage that cross threaded fitting at injector #2. I would see if the “T” fitting on injector #2 is available as well as the steel line #2 in the drawing. Do you have a John Deere supplier near by? There should be a data plate on that engine. Take a picture of it and along with your other photos they should be able to hook you up. Good luck!
Sorry, I meant to reference line #3 in the drawing, not #2. Does this line follow the same path as the one on your engine?
Are you seeing it as possibly being cross threaded IE the threads are buggered up?
It appears that way in your photos.
I think I was able to get it on straight and sealed. The way it threaded and sits suggests it correct.
My experience with these 804A & B models is that it does take a little longer cranking time because of the mechanical fuel lift pump as apposed to the electric lift pump on the smaller units. But if the engine does start, follow Guy’s suggestion earlier in this thread and simply loosen the high pressure fitting at each of the injectors. This will accomplish two things. It will help you locate a potential dead hole (the engine will still sound the same with the high pressure line loosened) and it will also bleed out any air that may be left in the lines. But, on that topic if the engine does start and run, just let it run and those high pressure lines will self bleed. My concern with your set is that you previously mentioned “ unusual noises” while it was running but we still don’t know what your oil pressure is? If you have good oil pressure (30 psi and above) and you have the cooling system full, let this unit run up to normal operating temperature by all means. Your engine miss and/or noises may just go away.
Got it. . I ran out of battery before I could get to the bleeding part ie the computer cycled while cranking which would have killed the command for the injection pump to fire. As you pointed out earlier if I get it running again a laser thermometer will reveal any jugs not firing as well. I will double the battery bank to get through the injector bleeding phase.
Again, that would depend on the batteries that you’re using. Size, state of charge and whether or not they’re actually “good” batteries. Do you have access to a carbon pile DC load tester? If not, it’s kind of a guessing game. If you’ve been charging them (and it sounds like you have been) and they’re going flat that quickly from cranking the engine over I would suspect “bad” batteries, they’re not sized correctly or they’re not being charged long enough. A good lead acid battery will reach about 16 volts before it’s fully charged. I’m sorry to be such a stick in the mud when it comes to your batteries, but we always suggest to start with “known good and properly sized batteries” before trouble-shooting a no start problem.
While I’m thinking about it, one of the “signs” of a bad lead/acid 12V battery is that if it was discharged let’s say below 11 volts before going on the charger and that voltage climbs quickly to 15 volts and above while it’s being charged, it’s probably not a good battery. A “good” 12V lead/acid battery that has been discharged below 11V can take 12 hours or longer on the charger to see 15V and above. Without a carbon pile load tester, this is really the only indicator for a good or bad battery. If you have a local auto parts store, most of them have battery load testers.
Good points all. I need to get them tested.
I should have referenced the charging amperage. Most off of the shelf 12V battery chargers will charge at 10 -20 amps, and as the battery voltage comes up the charging amps go down. At that rate it could take 12 hours or longer to charge a good battery with 300 CCA. (Cold cranking amps) Some battery chargers will put out up to 50 amps, but that feature is usually not recommended to actually charge the battery. It’s more of a way to start a vehicle which has a discharged battery. That opens up a whole new conversation about using the vehicles charging system to charge a very discharged battery, or set of batteries. Not recommended either, but I won’t go there on this thread
I am using 12 v 2 amp and 5 amp chargers and just had a 24v 5 amp charger come today. I want to get the ones I am using tested so I know where I am. Batteries go bad and it is not uncommon to see them finally die during winter.I should have referenced the charging amperage. Most off of the shelf 12V battery chargers will charge at 10 -20 amps, and as the battery voltage comes up the charging amps go down. At that rate it could take 12 hours or longer to charge a good battery with 300 CCA. (Cold cranking amps) Some battery chargers will put out up to 50 amps, but that feature is usually not recommended to actually charge the battery. It’s more of a way to start a vehicle which has a discharged battery. That opens up a whole new conversation about using the vehicles charging system to charge a very discharged battery, or set of batteries. Not recommended either, but I won’t go there on this thread
Do you have any feel for manifold temps per cylinder? We did get it running and it smoothed out after running but we noticed one cylinder was at 215 and the others were all 175 after 4 or 5 minutes. With three identical and one oddball we wanted to do a little research. With the apparent signs somebody had worked on the injection system, which may have been gov planet to get it running, we are aware we could have an injector ding interesting things. Any thoughts?I should have referenced the charging amperage. Most off of the shelf 12V battery chargers will charge at 10 -20 amps, and as the battery voltage comes up the charging amps go down. At that rate it could take 12 hours or longer to charge a good battery with 300 CCA. (Cold cranking amps) Some battery chargers will put out up to 50 amps, but that feature is usually not recommended to actually charge the battery. It’s more of a way to start a vehicle which has a discharged battery. That opens up a whole new conversation about using the vehicles charging system to charge a very discharged battery, or set of batteries. Not recommended either, but I won’t go there on this thread
As was mentioned earlier in this thread by “Guyfang” I believe, a notable difference in temperature on the exhaust manifold ports by using your hand would indicate a problem cylinder. A difference in manifold port temperature as measured with an infrared gun may just be incidental. Have you allowed this engine to reach operating temperature yet? If not, I would do so. That is unless the engine oil pressure is low. (We still don’t know what that is yet?) The reason for allowing the engine to operate up to normal operating temperature is because many times these cold engine misses will clear up. Especially on an engine that hasn’t seen any hours on it for a while. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, if it still has a miss, or if you can still feel/see a big difference in exhaust manifold port temperatures, now you can begin the trouble-shooting process on that. With the engine running (again, as Guy has previously mentioned) simply crack open the high pressure line at the injector for cylinder #1. (It’s like removing the spark plug wire from cylinder #1 on a gas pot engine) If there is a change in the sound of the engine with that line cracked open, close it and move on down to cylinder #2 and so forth and so on. When you crack an injector line loose (on an engine that’s up to operating temperature) and the engine sound does not change, that’s where your problem is. Now you get to find out if it’s an injector problem, a valve problem, a problem with piston and/or rings etc. My suspicion is that this engine will clear itself up when you allow it to run up to full operating temperature. (For clarification, that would be at least 180 degrees on the temperature gauge, or until the temperature gauge doesn’t go up any further) Report back, good luck and have fun too! Oh, BTW…please, please wear eye protection when cracking open those high pressure lines on a running engine!!!
