MEP-802A Fuel System issue.

[kayak1]

I have attempted to look at the PDF's to see if they would help with the issue. I may need a pointer to the correct page as I didn't see a fix.

My 802A is not currently running. It cranks and will run on starting fluid, but it will no longer run on it's own.

I have verified that the full cutoff selenoid moves when attempting to start.



If I disconnect the hose from the location of the red circle, fuel will spray out.

I am open to ideas of other things to check. The generator was running last weekend.

I appreciate any help you can provide.

 

[kloppk]

Possibly the fuel rack is stuck in the Stop position. Have had that issue a few times with my 802. Seemed to be due to one of the IP pins jumping out of the rack causing it to not move or a gummed up IP.
You'd need to remove the hex plug in the governor body to see it the rack moves to the right when the fuel solenoid retracts.

 

[kayak1]

Possibly the fuel rack is stuck in the Stop position. Have had that issue a few times with my 802. Seemed to be due to one of the IP pins jumping out of the rack causing it to not move or a gummed up IP.
You'd need to remove the hex plug in the governor body to see it the rack moves to the right when the fuel solenoid retracts.

I have fire department tonight (scba and truck checks) I will take a look at it Thursday night.
Thanks again!!!

 

[Digger556]

I had the same problem and it was exactly as kloppk described. One IP was rotated too far CW and the pin/lever jumped out of the rack and jammed it.

ETA: I found my old post with a gif showing the problem.

Help, 802a cranks but won't start. Possible injector pump / rack issue

Hey all, I've had this MEP-802a for several years now and it has been very reliable. I try to load test every month, but honestly I forget and sometimes it goes 2-3 months between tests. Well I pulled it out yesterday after sitting 2 months and it cranks but won't fire. Electrically...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[kayak1]

Thanks for the thread. I attempted to look at the issue but may be over my head in this one.

I pulled the plug and didn't see anything obvious to move.
Attached is a picture of what I as able to see.

 

[kloppk]

Look to the right in the hole. When the set is stopped you should see the end of the fuel rack.
Now, while watching it use you right hand to retract the fuel solenoid to the run position. As you do the end of the fuel rack should move to the right out kind of out of sight which would be opening the IP's (assuming their pins are in the rack slots).

It looks like this...

 

[kayak1]

Thanks, I will take a look again in the AM.

 

[Denvercaitland]

This is a posted video from a member which may assist you

 

[kayak1]

This is a posted video from a member which may assist you

The video is great. It pointed me to the following video that also looks helpful:

I am going to have to open the tin up on it again to be able to get enough room to work. That and possibly remove the radiator.

Thanks for the help. When I disconnect the output pipe from the injector, nothing currently sprays out.

The part that @kloppk asked me to look at doesn't seem to move.

 

[Guyfang]

Do not be in a hurry to go so far as taking out the radiator. I would first pull out the IP's and see if the rack will move. To do that, look into the IP hole, and pull/push the fuel cut off solenoid linkage back and forth.. You should see the rack move back and forth. Then you need to get the IP's back in right, in the right place and tightened down. Then try to start it.

 

[kayak1]

Do not be in a hurry to go so far as taking out the radiator. I would first pull out the IP's and see if the rack will move. To do that, look into the IP hole, and pull/push the fuel cut off solenoid linkage back and forth.. You should see the rack move back and forth. Then you need to get the IP's back in right, in the right place and tightened down. Then try to start it.

I started to go down another path.

I started to go down the path of swapping the good stator and radiator from the green MEP-802A to the tan MEP-802A.
I figured that once I made the tan one work, I would push it back onto the pad and work on building a roof for it.

This will leave me with a generator that has ~20 hours on the hour meter and an engine that looks new. The green one's hour meeter is under 100 hours but looks like it has years of use, as much of the paint is missing. I don't trust the motor as much and will have time to look at it without a radiator in the way.

In any case, I have taken much of the shell off the tan one and pulled the mounting bolts for the stator. I attempted to use my 3-jaw puller to find that it wasn't a good fit (it doesn't fit with the windings). Should I be using a 3-jaw puller? If so, can someone share a recommendation of one that they would recommend for this? If not, what's the correct way to remove the stator body?

Thanks again!

 

[Guyfang]

Gentle heat on the end piece, tap the puller screw with a hammer and tighten up the puller. Worked for me. I would have pulled the engine and main gen out as one, then you have more room to move.

 

[kayak1]

Gentle heat on the end piece, tap the puller screw with a hammer and tighten up the puller. Worked for me. I would have pulled the engine and main gen out as one, then you have more room to move.

Thanks, I have a couple of two jaw pullers that should arrive today. I don't have an engine lift or a tractor (my neighbor's tractor is currently broken at the dealer and waiting for repair). Heat sounds like a good idea.

I attempted to pull one of the IPs last night, and made things worse. It seems that the tube exiting the pump was twisting, and I didn't notice it before it was fairly twisted. I stopped while I was behind.

 

[Ray70]

Are you holding the lower nut and loosening the upper nut?
In the picture it kind of looks like the lower part has been turned, that isn't correct.

 

[kayak1]

Are you holding the lower nut and loosening the upper nut?
In the picture it kind of looks like the lower part has been turned, that isn't correct.

I was turning the upper one, the bottom one wasn't moving.

 

[Ray70]

Ugh, that means the line is frozen to the nut. Some heat and penetrating oil should help free it up.
Try rocking the nut back and forth rather than continuing to unscrew it.
If you wreck it I probably have a spare in my parts stash that I can part with.

 

[kayak1]

Ugh, that means the line is frozen to the nut. Some heat and penetrating oil should help free it up.
Try rocking the nut back and forth rather than continuing to unscrew it.
If you wreck it I probably have a spare in my parts stash that I can part with.

@Ray70 Thanks for the offer! I was giving it a last attempt to fix the green one. I am going to pull many of the parts off the green generator and get the tan one running. After that, I may just break down the green one and put it on shelfs in my basement to keep the tan one running in the future.

I spent a little time with the two-jaw puller last night. Apparently, 8" is the length and not the width.
It was much too small. Using it, angling the jaws, I was able to get it to barely hook on. With very little effort, I got the stator to move 1/2 way off the bearing before the angle was too much for it.

The new two jaw should arrive Wed. This will give me some time to pull the enclosure off the green one and get that one ready to pull its stator.

 

[2Pbfeet]

Getting it moving is great! Usually for me, I find the first part of a pull to be the worst.

Good luck with the big brother puller.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[kayak1]

I played with the little puller and now have it free of the bearing.


Do I need to worry about dragging the rotor on the stator?

Should I get an engine hoist to help lift the stator as I drag it forward?

 

[Guyfang]

View attachment 907294

Do I need to worry about dragging the rotor on the stator?

Should I get an engine hoist to help lift the stator as I drag it forward?

Yes, you need to be careful about that.
You have removed the vibration dampers on the Main gen?
You have removed or relocated everything that might hang up the main gen when you slide it out?
You have supported the engine so its going to stay level with the stator, when you pull out the main gen?
Yes, an engine hoist is a good idea. Be sure to have help with you.