MEP-1040 runs but no output

[pontiacgearhead]

Newbie here. MEP-1040 starts but has no output with a tool plugged in. "Battle short" light stays on and won't go off if flip switch.
The generator isn't grounded - found rods in storage compartment, but didn't see a ground cable to attach to rods.
Please let me know if unit needs to be grounded to produce voltage or what else to do/check.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Have you closed the circuit? unlike the 802/803 units the convenience plugs will not produce power unless you close the circuit. no reason to be using the battle short button. Also any alerts have to be cleared using the buttons. Lots of reading for you to do the Technical Manuals are at the top of the page for this generator. but here is the link to the TM and Common parts thread

AMMPS MEP-1040 10KW Generator List of Part Numbers

AMMPS MEP-1040 10KW Generator Parts MEP-1040 10kw AMMPS Generator 6115-01-561-7455 YANMAR 3TNV84T-BMCU engine (3 cylinder turbo, 1.5L) Air filter Fleetguard AF26168, Napa 9168, Wix 49168, Baldwin RS5325, Donaldson P616641 Fuel/Water Separator Racor R15S, Napa 3433, Baldwin BF46019-O Oil...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Mep-1040/1041 ammps 10kw 6115-01-561-7455

MEP-1040/1041 AMMPS 10KW 6115-01-561-7455 (3rd generation generator) TM 9-6115-750-10 (operation) TM 9-6115-750-24&P (parts)

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Chainbreaker]

Welcome! I just had to log in to comment on your ID Photo. Is that an early 70's Grand Prix 455? Nice, VERY Nice!!! My parents had an all white 1963 Bonneville with white leather that I'll never forget. Once I earned enough money as a teenager to buy a car I bought a '68 GTO 400. Those were the days!

Anyway... not meant to derail your quest for info/answers on your MEP-1040 as you came to the right place to get them!

 

[DD58]

Yes you should always ground the set before start up. You can go as simple and using a piece or romex. Ungrounded sets running things and having a short or gfci trip can cause a lot of damage.


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[pontiacgearhead]

THANKS for quick replies, and links to the manual. This TM is better for setup/operation than the 1196 pg manual I found

https://radionerds.com/images/2/27/086805_750-24P.pdf

The generator is at a friend's house 20 miles away and I'll go there today.
First will ground the unit, then look for the display screen to check for alerts.
What is meant by "closing the circuit"?

 

[pontiacgearhead]

Welcome! I just had to log in to comment on your ID Photo. Is that an early 70's Grand Prix 455? Nice, VERY Nice!!! My parents had an all white 1963 Bonneville with white leather that I'll never forget. Once I earned enough money as a teenager to buy a car I bought a '68 GTO 400. Those were the days!

Anyway... not meant to derail your quest for info/answers on your MEP-1040 as you came to the right place to get them!

Glad I found this site. My friend got the MEP-1040 for a farm. Have to tie it into main breaker box (400A main splits to three 100A panels), but that's later.
Need to have power for well pump, heater in pool/winter dog house, horse barn (water), and house heat/etc, spread over 3 acres.

That's a '67 Grand Prix. The early 70s (started in '69) had the longest hoods at the time - I can remember like yesterday seeing one popped open in the showroom when they came out. Looked a mile long to a 13-year old kid. I have one of those too, along with the '69 GTO. (don't want to go off topic about cars here, but will reply).
That would have been a nice '63 Bonneville. I didn't know they had leather interior back then.. I think Bonneville was top of the line.

 

[DD58]

THANKS for quick replies, and links to the manual. This TM is better for setup/operation than the 1196 pg manual I found

https://radionerds.com/images/2/27/086805_750-24P.pdf

The generator is at a friend's house 20 miles away and I'll go there today.
First will ground the unit, then look for the display screen to check for alerts.
What is meant by "closing the circuit"?

So closing the circuit is a switch that sends power from the generator to the output lugs.

Make sure you go over the Tms ready everything. Especially in the trouble shooting section. It’s very easy to fry electronics in a 1040 unit.

Spend time on the forum ready as much as you can.
There’s a lot of great people in here that can help. The biggest thing you will find is them referring to the tm and ways to test. Get really familiar with a multi meter and how to use it.

And at the top of the list post pictures. Any thing you have questions on post a picture with it. Makes life a lot easier.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

The answer to your question is, NO, the set doesn't need to be grounded to produce voltage.

BUT, big BUT here, its a good thing to do, in case you want to see your next birthday. Should there be a fault in the AC output of the set, or should you put your knob dickers in the wrong place, having a ground could save your life.

The gen set REQUIRES you to read the books, if you want to use it, or fix it.

 

[Mayo1700]

I'm at the farm/other user name.
Unit is grounded - used a ground rod/clamp for nearby 400A main circuit breaker panel.
Got output after running for 5 min, and pressed a button as said in TM. Got power to all main lugs, but still not to convenience plugs. I saw a (looks like) GFCI switch inside door/behind convenience plug... pressed TEST and got no "feeling" (usually I hear a click and feel some resistance"). pressed RESET and ditto.. like it's dead.
Good news is finding a ground cable, ground rod couplers,clamp and diagnostic cables in the 'storage compartment' inside engine compartment door.
I assume diag cables plug into round connectors then to RS232 serial computer port.. need to read up on this.

Gut feeling is the GFCI test/reset switch is bad. But still wonder if there's something else needed to 'close the circuit'.
I'll read the TM about generator setup. We took photos of display panel, the GFCI switch, and what looks like a stripped/cockeyed connected fluid line (3/4 or 1") that isn't leaking in the engine compartment,... but Windows won't allow USB xfer from phones now (update?) so will have photos texted and post after I get home.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Convenience outlets are live when the machine is running, regardless of phase selection or output lug settings. If yours is dead it could be the outlet, or a fuse, or a loose wire.

 

[nextalcupfan]

Welcome! I just had to log in to comment on your ID Photo. Is that an early 70's Grand Prix 455? Nice, VERY Nice!!! My parents had an all white 1963 Bonneville with white leather that I'll never forget. Once I earned enough money as a teenager to buy a car I bought a '68 GTO 400. Those were the days!

Anyway... not meant to derail your quest for info/answers on your MEP-1040 as you came to the right place to get them!

Did someone say Bonneville?
1963 Pontiac Bonneville (I highly suspect it was built in Nov or Dec of 1962), 389 4-barrel, 4-speed auto, 3.08 Rear Gears.
Factory A/C
(Sorry for adding to the Derail)

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Convenience outlets are live when the machine is running, regardless of phase selection or output lug settings. If yours is dead it could be the outlet, or a fuse, or a loose wire.

not on the AMMPS units
TM 9-6115-750-10 Page d
x Power is available to the GFCI convenience receptacle only when the main contactor is closed. Avoid accidental contact. Electrocution is possible. Failure to comply may cause injury or death to personnel.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

I'm at the farm/other user name.
Unit is grounded - used a ground rod/clamp for nearby 400A main circuit breaker panel.
Got output after running for 5 min, and pressed a button as said in TM. Got power to all main lugs, but still not to convenience plugs. I saw a (looks like) GFCI switch inside door/behind convenience plug... pressed TEST and got no "feeling" (usually I hear a click and feel some resistance"). pressed RESET and ditto.. like it's dead.
Good news is finding a ground cable, ground rod couplers,clamp and diagnostic cables in the 'storage compartment' inside engine compartment door.
I assume diag cables plug into round connectors then to RS232 serial computer port.. need to read up on this.

Gut feeling is the GFCI test/reset switch is bad. But still wonder if there's something else needed to 'close the circuit'.
I'll read the TM about generator setup. We took photos of display panel, the GFCI switch, and what looks like a stripped/cockeyed connected fluid line (3/4 or 1") that isn't leaking in the engine compartment,... but Windows won't allow USB xfer from phones now (update?) so will have photos texted and post after I get home.

SYMPTOM Power not available at GFCI CONVENIENCE RECEPTACLE. MALFUNCTION GFCI CONVENIENCE RECEPTACLE has been subjected to a ground fault condition. CORRECTIVE ACTION STEP 1. If generator is operating and the [CONTACTOR] is [CLOSED], push RESET switches located on the face of the receptacle. STEP 2. If symptom continues, notify field maintenance. END OF WORK PACKAGE

 

[kloppk]

Does your set display 120 volts on the DCS display as circled below?
The example below is for 3 phase.

 

[Light in the Dark]

not on the AMMPS units
TM 9-6115-750-10 Page d
x Power is available to the GFCI convenience receptacle only when the main contactor is closed. Avoid accidental contact. Electrocution is possible. Failure to comply may cause injury or death to personnel.

I stand corrected. A step backwards to me... But in step with my view on the AMMPS anyways haha.

 

[Guyfang]

Below is a diagram of the GFI. If you want to test it, I would remove the AC input wires. Hook up 120 VAC from your wall plug, to the GFI AC input wires. Press the reset. Then measure to see if you have 120 VAC on the 120 volt outlet. If so, press the test button to see if the GFI cuts off the AC voltage to the 120 Volt outs.

 

[pontiacgearhead]

I stand corrected. A step backwards to me... But in step with my view on the AMMPS anyways haha.

I was going to question that (per Kubota's first reply), but you're right that it's either the receptacle, wiring, or "fuse" (white circuit breaker reset button is above the convenience receptacle). I'll check this out tomorrow.

 

[pontiacgearhead]

Does your set display 120 volts on the DCS display as circled below?
The example below is for 3 phase.
View attachment 909925

The "Power Mode Switch" (inside engine compartment) is set to 3Phase 120/208 (or something like that) - there were two other settings (maybe Single phase 120/240 and Single Phase 120).
This is what the screen showed - before (top) and after (bottom) pressing the "Contactor" open/closed button. Only difference is Bus Voltage - which I confirmed with a DVM.

 

[pontiacgearhead]

SYMPTOM Power not available at GFCI CONVENIENCE RECEPTACLE. MALFUNCTION GFCI CONVENIENCE RECEPTACLE has been subjected to a ground fault condition. CORRECTIVE ACTION STEP 1. If generator is operating and the [CONTACTOR] is [CLOSED], push RESET switches located on the face of the receptacle. STEP 2. If symptom continues, notify field maintenance. END OF WORK PACKAGE

THANKS - this is what I plan to chase tomorrow. I pressed the RESET and TEST buttons on GFI and the small white circuit breaker reset button above the receptacle - there was no 'resistance to touch' or sound with CONTACTOR CLOSED as I've noticed when pressing buttons on other such devices.
Interesting frm manual:
MEP 1040 [50/60Hz] contains a GFCI receptacle as the convenience receptacle. MEP 1041 [400 Hz] contains a duplex receptacle as the convenience receptacle and a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) located inside the rear access door.
This is a 1040, but has a duplex receptacle and separate GFI (as Guyfang shows), but it's marked 50/60 Hz. There is wear around the RESET button like it's been pressed a lot.

 

[pontiacgearhead]

Below is a diagram of the GFI. If you want to test it, I would remove the AC input wires. Hook up 120 VAC from your wall plug, to the GFI AC input wires. Press the reset. Then measure to see if you have 120 VAC on the 120 volt outlet. If so, press the test button to see if the GFI cuts off the AC voltage to the 120 Volt outs.


View attachment 909938

Thank you for a good test.
There are five pages of convenience outlet related diagrams in the 1196 pg manual including this one. Great detail shows wiring from lugs to GFI to push button circuit breaker to receptacle. I'll pull it all apart, check wiring, and test each component. If the GFI is bad, I plan to replace the receptable with a GFCI since that's what manual says a 1040 has anyway (if you all say is okay). I'll have to replace the push button circuit breaker with an 'official part' if it's bad.