To get my HMMWV (M1097A2) in good running order... need help.

[DEA AK]

Hi all,

I need to test my transmission light to see if its burned out/ruined/etc but it is stuck on pretty good. Is there a special way to remove it? Twist and pull, just pull, etc.

I don't want to just yank on it and end up breaking it. Been there, done that before.

Thanks,
David

 

[Mogman]

Can't you push it down from the top after removing the screws?
It is a sealed unit so you cannot take it apart.
You should have 12V all the time to one side.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Hi all,

I need to test my transmission light to see if its burned out/ruined/etc but it is stuck on pretty good. Is there a special way to remove it? Twist and pull, just pull, etc.

I don't want to just yank on it and end up breaking it. Been there, done that before.

Thanks,
David

Close up shot of the lamp assembly. NO USER serviceable part to yank on, twist or pull ???


This is more or less just the light > https://hummer-hmmwv.tpub.com/TM-9-2320-387-24-1/css/TM-9-2320-387-24-1_458.htm

Reading all of this will burn your eyes out > https://hummer-hmmwv.tpub.com/TM-9-2320-280-20-1/css/TM-9-2320-280-20-1_507.htm

And this should make the guys feel good > https://www.psmagazine.army.mil/News/Article/2429344/hmmwv-transmission-failure-fix/

Sealed light module to keep the light in, CAMO

 

[DEA AK]

Can't you push it down from the top after removing the screws?
It is a sealed unit so you cannot take it apart.
You should have 12V all the time to one side.

I apologize, I should have been more clear. I was referring to the connector. it doesn't appear to be a regular barrel type connector. It has two wires mated to one connector. I pulled on it but it did not come apart so I was afraid of breaking it.

 

[DEA AK]

Close up shot of the lamp assembly. NO USER serviceable part to yank on, twist or pull ???

View attachment 914930
This is more or less just the light > https://hummer-hmmwv.tpub.com/TM-9-2320-387-24-1/css/TM-9-2320-387-24-1_458.htm

Reading all of this will burn your eyes out > https://hummer-hmmwv.tpub.com/TM-9-2320-280-20-1/css/TM-9-2320-280-20-1_507.htm

And this should make the guys feel good > https://www.psmagazine.army.mil/News/Article/2429344/hmmwv-transmission-failure-fix/

Sealed light module to keep the light in, CAMO

I should have been more clear, I was referring to the connector. Appears to be two wires to one connector and it didn't come apart after I pulled on it. With my luck it might be the only twist and pull connector on the entire truck that I yank apart then have to buy an entire new wiring harness for a burnt out led...

 

[Milcommoguy]

Take a look here to see what YA got. Just like the fuel pressure sender and tachometer sender.

Easy stuff....... don't let the simple plug win LOL

Going to require some of that wiggle, jiggle, pull and careful twist and shout, CAMO

 

[DEA AK]

Take a look here to see what YA got. Just like the fuel pressure sender and tachometer sender.

View attachment 914935 View attachment 914936 Easy stuff....... don't let the simple plug win LOL

Going to require some of that wiggle, jiggle, pull and careful twist and shout, CAMO

Good copy, thank you very much.

 

[DEA AK]

Just a quick newbie question. Can't say anything positive, in case I jinx myself but I moved the cars around in the garage and although I didn't see any oil of fluid leaks / drips on the floor initially, after putting water on the floor I did notice it appeared as if there were some oil slick areas (if you know what I mean... only noticed there was something there at some point after putting down water).

So, today after driving it around town, I let it sit for 30 mins or so I went under and saw small drips hanging from the truck. One at the end of the transfer case and one between the oil pan and transmission.

Are these small drips normal? How serious are they? Do I just need to sell this thing and live without stress for the rest of my life

Thanks,
David

 

[Mogman]

The one on the back of the TC is the rear transfer case seal, usually not a big problem to replace.
The one on the rear of the engine could be a rear engine seal as it does not look red, but it could be simply oily water or even diesel from the engine valley.
pull the dog house and inspect the valley and the rear and sides of the back of the engine, if all that looks dry then pull the dust cover between the engine and trans, then you can see if it is the rear seal or trans front seal, a good bright light and if the rear seal is leaking it should be obvious.

 

[DEA AK]

The one on the back of the TC is the rear transfer case seal, usually not a big problem to replace.
The one on the rear of the engine could be a rear engine seal as it does not look red, but it could be simply oily water or even diesel from the engine valley.
pull the dog house and inspect the valley and the rear and sides of the back of the engine, if all that looks dry then pull the dust cover between the engine and trans, then you can see if it is the rear seal or trans front seal, a good bright light and if the rear seal is leaking it should be obvious.

The engine looks good except for the oil sending unit (?), looks like it's leaking / dripping / whatever from it... That could be where its coming from???

Did a super scientific test (AKA paper towel under the unit... ) drove it for 6 miles, no drips or sprays or anything.

Must be a very small leak or maybe the military fixed it before they got rid of it... and this oil spot is the left over mess they didn't clean up...

 

[Hummer Guy]

Just a quick newbie question. Can't say anything positive, in case I jinx myself but I moved the cars around in the garage and although I didn't see any oil of fluid leaks / drips on the floor initially, after putting water on the floor I did notice it appeared as if there were some oil slick areas (if you know what I mean... only noticed there was something there at some point after putting down water).

So, today after driving it around town, I let it sit for 30 mins or so I went under and saw small drips hanging from the truck. One at the end of the transfer case and one between the oil pan and transmission.

Are these small drips normal? How serious are they? Do I just need to sell this thing and live without stress for the rest of my life

Thanks,
David

RIP, living the humvee life of replacing all of the random parts that's breaking from almost 2 decades of neglect. Don't worry, it's going to grow on you till you be done replaced every boot, gasket, and seal then you'll have a 100% reliable vehicle

 

[DEA AK]

RIP, living the humvee life of replacing all of the random parts that's breaking from almost 2 decades of neglect. Don't worry, it's going to grow on you till you be done replaced every boot, gasket, and seal then you'll have a 100% reliable vehicle

Ha ha very true... and if I can survive the journey, I'll probably be bald from all the stress

 

[Hummer Guy]

Ha ha very true... and if I can survive the journey, I'll probably be bald from all the stress

Don't worry, becoming bald is all part of it, hence why I'm about to apply my rogaine hair growth in the next 2 minutes...

 

[DEA AK]

Question...

Not to jinx myself but my truck runs, seems to shift into all gears fine and the generator gauge works, dips down when I crank and shortly after starting it gets into the green zone, normally right on the mark in that green zone.

BUT... I saw a video that the guy stated that a wiring short / fire could happen if a ground wire wasn't connected to my alternator.

In the picture, I have two wires where B is indicated, however, I do not have a wire where A is indicated.

Is this wrong? I don't see any wires any place in the engine bay that were cut or broken.

The TM that I see is less than helpful as it doesn't show anything connected to the yellow stud.

The final pic is of my truck (with no arrows)

Thank you

 

[Coug]

Question...

Not to jinx myself but my truck runs, seems to shift into all gears fine and the generator gauge works, dips down when I crank and shortly after starting it gets into the green zone, normally right on the mark in that green zone.

BUT... I saw a video that the guy stated that a wiring short / fire could happen if a ground wire wasn't connected to my alternator.

In the picture, I have two wires where B is indicated, however, I do not have a wire where A is indicated.

Is this wrong? I don't see any wires any place in the engine bay that were cut or broken.

The TM that I see is less than helpful as it doesn't show anything connected to the yellow stud.

The final pic is of my truck (with no arrows)

Thank you

Wire A is the 14V tap that would go the the rear battery.
It's typically only installed for trucks with 4 speed transmissions.
It does help keep the batteries balanced, so installing a wire there is helpful, but is not required for operation in 3 speed trucks.

Seeing as you should have a 4 speed transmission, you really do need to run an appropriate sized wire from post A to the positive post of the rear battery, or you will end up with potentially catastrophic battery failure in your future.

 

[DEA AK]

Wire A is the 14V tap that would go the the rear battery.
It's typically only installed for trucks with 4 speed transmissions.
It does help keep the batteries balanced, so installing a wire there is helpful, but is not required for operation in 3 speed trucks.

Hi,
Thanks for the reply.

I have a 4 speed truck.

I don't see a wire in the engine bay, do I just throw a wire on that yellow stud and run it to the rear battery ( to the positive terminal )?

Thank you,
David

 

[Coug]

I

Hi,
Thanks for the reply.

I have a 4 speed truck.

I don't see a wire in the engine bay, do I just throw a wire on that yellow stud and run it to the rear battery???

Thank you,
David

yes. It's rated for 50 amps so use the appropriate wire size.
I was still editing my previous answer when you replied

 

[Coug]

rear battery should have a smaller wire for the TCM, and a larger wire going up to the alternator. I'd check there first and see if you have the larger wire and if so where it's going, before trying to start at the alternator only to find the wire dangling somewhere it shouldn't be after trying to install a new one.

 

[DEA AK]

I

yes. It's rated for 50 amps so use the appropriate wire size.
I was still editing my previous answer when you replied

Thank you very much, I appreciate your quick reply!

 

[Coug]

Thank you very much, I appreciate your quick reply!

You caught me at the right time. Normally I don't even crawl out of bed for at least another 15 minutes.