RFID Keyless Ignition

[M1123 HMMWV]

2000 M1123 with a 6.5L/4L80E

Looking to put an RFID system in. Does anyone recommend either of these? Or have experience with them.

https://midwestmilitaryequipment.co...RNE3sj866PK0AFVS2FgG9EExagfWS2-mSYbyf2ubBEPMF

or

https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/ke...gryFob93oXlVKmjMBjg4xGcAG1OU7SZIBkFYtw5FfamCv

I am wondering if there are any issues or problems caused by them, why the $200 price difference, and what the difference between them is.
I see the GD seems to be installed inline with the ignition wire going to the switch while the MME is put inline with all the wires to the switch.

 

[FlameRed]

Why the $200 price difference?

That easy! HMMWV tax!

Seriously, I cannot really opine about either system, except to say that a lot of folks have reported fires because the start switch replacement could not handle the load. You can search for the threads about the switch to key replacements and the ones that come out of industrial equipment or trucks seem to be able to accommodate the HMMWV while the other camp reports that the Chinesium ones burn up.

 

[Coug]

That easy! HMMWV tax!

Seriously, I cannot really opine about either system, except to say that a lot of folks have reported fires because the start switch replacement could not handle the load. You can search for the threads about the switch to key replacements and the ones that come out of industrial equipment or trucks seem to be able to accommodate the HMMWV while the other camp reports that the Chinesium ones burn up.

I think you're confusing these with the keyed ignitions.
The links above are just RFID enabled circuits that get installed to kill power to the start box if the RFID chip isn't present. You still keep the OEM paddle ignition switch

 

[M1123 HMMWV]

I think you're confusing these with the keyed ignitions.
The links above are just RFID enabled circuits that get installed to kill power to the start box if the RFID chip isn't present. You still keep the OEM paddle ignition switch

This is what I was understanding as well. FlameRed mentioned industrial ignitions which triggered a thought. I may just hide a CAT battery cut off switch wired in series with the power going to the OEM ignition switch. I already carry a CAT battery key everyday for work. So that would eliminate having to carry the FOB and still maintain the OEM ignition switch and having a form of security.

I would still like to see some input from people that have experience with the RFID systems since that may be on the table for me still and others would benefit from that info.

 

[sue]

If it doesn’t have a self driving mode what’s
the point?

 

[Mainsail]

As you leave proximity of your Humvee, the MME 24 automatically arms and your Humvee is completely secured.

The issue I see with these is the "proximity" is poorly explained. The key-rack where I hang my keys is roughly 40' from the HMMWV parked in the driveway; so will it disarm? That would be a nice kick in the pants to look out the window and see the truck is gone because the key fob is still close enough to allow it to start. Not much satisfaction knowing the thief won't be able to restart it once they shut it off....

 

[Jon knox]

I've got the digital guard dog 2005 1123 love it does exactly what it advertises no issues what so ever when you first get it the range will be quite far but battery goes down slightly range reduces to about 3 feet I'm very happy with it

 

[spankybear]

LOL at "HMMWV Tax" If you are handy you could use something like this... Cut the neutral safety switch power or a high power relay and cut all power to the start switch. It's cheap...

https://www.amazon.com/RVBOATPAT-Wireless-Control-Anti-Theft-Security/dp/B0CBBPHWJN?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9._rNGJkJv-9l0H4pCgel6rGPv2nfl-Q037o40pgr_EE6KVnK6vTCPvCnbPGNvq3H1ZSrGGe7Kfbk_VN8ZKlK3ShVo-Dok62xM4KooSnmfI5x3hQA9eiUPkKDQoU9Cz0ufGyvhXJAFu586ps-fmHTTV3PZmUdm4yKK-D-957eI59vuJFQvzOI1myGi6WanREH2P6qLwi7jx2qTjfGCabNpB64gcFX0yfIbjnUtZJ60w6h2_fVXqlGR688o459KJ6ftnT2b547hN5kz2rIDbHvN055OL3aAYU3EmVGqGtq1boc.Ullp5kzwsSjK8H__aR_Bak74CXDimv87_zE5DWnN_gQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=rfid+switch&qid=1731989523&sr=8-43

 

[HUNvee]

The MME version appears to be an earlier version of GuardDawg.

 

[mgFray]

I have the GuardDawg, I've had it for about 2 1/2 years now. No regrets. (easy to disable as well if something goes wrong, but not easy enough that a novice would just bypass it.)

 

[TOBASH]

2000 M1123 with a 6.5L/4L80E

Looking to put an RFID system in. Does anyone recommend either of these? Or have experience with them.

https://midwestmilitaryequipment.co...RNE3sj866PK0AFVS2FgG9EExagfWS2-mSYbyf2ubBEPMF

or

https://www.digitalguarddawg.com/ke...gryFob93oXlVKmjMBjg4xGcAG1OU7SZIBkFYtw5FfamCv

I am wondering if there are any issues or problems caused by them, why the $200 price difference, and what the difference between them is.
I see the GD seems to be installed inline with the ignition wire going to the switch while the MME is put inline with all the wires to the switch.

Doesn’t RWH sell these?

 

[Humpty]

I'd be willing to bet you could achieve just as good, if not better results buying a sub $100 system off Amazon and adding the little HMMWV rubber shell connectors. All these are really doing is interrupting the ignition. If I had to pick one or the other of the two you referenced the Digital Guard Dog product looks like a nice beefy relay. I'd go with that one.. but honestly I think far better options exist for way less money.

You pay a premium for HMMWV "plug & play".

 

[spankybear]

Yeah the premium plug and play tax...

Anyway I ordered the kit from my above link and have an ideal how to install it. And dang I see it's on black Friday sale. for 13 bucks. I have the Packard connectors and prestolight wire and will have it so I can go back to stock easily. I don't like cutting into stock wire bundles. I think all i'll need is to make a ground and 2 other connections.

 

[Gcelevator]

Yeah the premium plug and play tax...

Anyway I ordered the kit from my above link and have an ideal how to install it. And dang I see it's on black Friday sale. for 13 bucks. I have the Packard connectors and prestolight wire and will have it so I can go back to stock easily. I don't like cutting into stock wire bundles. I think all i'll need is to make a ground and 2 other connections.

Looking at the one you posted, it has + & - inputs and + & - load. How are you planning to install this on the neutral switch? Curios.

 

[spankybear]

Looking at the one you posted, it has + & - inputs and + & - load. How are you planning to install this on the neutral switch? Curios.

It's a work in progress and I am testing it, but use that to control a relay. I don't trust any cheap Chinese thing to carry a load. I am looking for something like this relay here https://temcoindustrial.com/24v-40a-4-pin-bosch-style-automotive-relay-spst/ If you have an LMTV you should have a few of these type as spares. (24 volt relay that is)

I am not planning on putting in line with the neutral safety switch. I plan on putting in line with run circuit wire 29. I want to measure the run circuit to see the load to size the relay. The run circuit breaker on the HMMWV is 15 amps. The relay about should be fine.

I tested it to see if it had non-volatile memory. You need to program the remote/xmitter to the unit. The unit keeps it's memory when power down. There are a couple of reason this is good. I also wanted to test the quiescent/standby current. It tested at 7mA and this is good.

Another thing l like is it is small. One issue is it's not waterproof. But that is not too big of a deal as I can install it into a small encl user.

The unit has 5 modes. It's kind of cool in a way. But an issue is it seem you can only program one remote to one mode. Saying having 2 remotes will do not do the same thing. This may not me an issue for me as how I plan on wiring it up. Don't know yet.

If you want a relay to control that handles more current there is a large section and this is just one site.

https://www.newark.com/c/switches-relays/relays/automotive-relays?coil-voltage=24vdc

Edit to fix wrong link.

 

[spankybear]

I went a little different way and now going to use a different remote control with a relay. I have been bench testing and it looks good. Next I need to install it on the truck. Should be easyish (fitting myself under the dash will be the only hard thing. Every try to adjust the brake light switch?)

The remote I am going to use. I like these fob things better and the unit is very small

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CC93L4WR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I will use that remote to turn on this relay here.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DF6D3X9M?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

This relay has a waterproof connector and nice heavy gauge wire. It's a "5" wire but I I have removed one wire are I will not be using it. It's a boach style relay so "87A" isn't going to be used.

Cheap so far and under 20 bucks. Will look stock with no cutting of wires.

I'll get some picture as soon as I take them... and stop procrastinating and getting my butt out in the cold garage...

 

[spankybear]

Well, I done installed the unit. It was not too hard and seems to work. I still want to test the amperage through the relay but I am sure it's fine. I also need to tidy up the wiring to make it look stock.

I wanted to install the relay without drilling any holes. I wanted to be able to get the receiver it I need to program another fob. I also wanted it not to be easily seen.

I found an hole on the top of the steering wheel mount that would take a 1/4 20 bolt. There was room for the relay to mount there. I faced the relay so the wires came out behind the investment cluster. This is so I can have the receiver there and it can be reached but out of site.

I spliced the wires from the relay contacts with milspec prestolite wire. This looks stock and I also used the packard connectors. This just plugs into the system with no cutting wires. I needed a ground so I picked that up from the back of the instrument cluster.

The way I have it wired is you first switch the master switch to "ON" and then you push the remote button to close the relay. this will power everything up. When you move the switch to off this cuts power to everything including the receiver and relay. Just like turning off your truck. No extra steps.

There is one thing that maybe a problem. The way I wired this if you push the remote while it's running it will turn off everything. I am not to sure this will be an issue or not. If it is an issue it would be easy to have a workaround where this would never happen. But only if this is an issue.

The relay had 5 wires and I an only using 4. I took one out as it wasn't needed and would be just in the way. It the yellow wire in the picture.

Here are a couple of picture

This isn't a how to... this is how I did it. If you have any questions let me know.

I will try to get picture of in installed. But this isn't going to be easy. I wanted to not make it visible.

It took me a couple of hours to install and I have under 40 bucks including everything use (wire, connectors, splices, heat shrink) No HMMWV tax.

 

[spankybear]

More testing reviles that the starter will crank that way I have it wired, but will not start. I interrupted the run circuit but not the start circuit. I put the relay in line with wire 29A. This will prevent the truck from staring and running but it will allow the engine/starter to crank.

I could put this relay inline with wire 11A and cut the power that way. I thought of this but the receiver will be powered all of the time. I mention the quiescent/standby current is only 7mA and this is noting. But I wanted to have everything powered down. The best part is I can still do this as all I wold have to do is switch the wires around and it would still look stock.

What do you people think. Would you rather have the unit completely powered down but the starter would crank truck will not start or would you want that ability for the starter not crank but the unit powered up drawing a very small amount of power. All cars made in the last 20 or so year all have a small about of current that is being used.

 

[Mainsail]

What do you people think. Would you rather have the unit completely powered down but the starter would crank truck will not start or would you want that ability for the starter not crank but the unit powered up drawing a very small amount of power. All cars made in the last 20 or so year all have a small about of current that is being used.

My key-switch, hidden up under the panel below the HVAC switches, interrupts the neutral safety switch only. So mine will crank but not start (assuming I remember to turn the key before I get out).

Right now using two non-mil batteries (I forget the size but not huge) and my constant drains are the 24v clock and the 12v 70amp transformer. I can shut off the transformer but usually don't, so it's powered all the time even if it isn't powering anything itself. Even if I don't start it for a week (so far) it fires up without difficulty. So yes, it has a draw but that draw hasn't yet been problematic.

 

[spankybear]

My key-switch, hidden up under the panel below the HVAC switches, interrupts the neutral safety switch only. So mine will crank but not start (assuming I remember to turn the key before I get out).

Right now using two non-mil batteries (I forget the size but not huge) and my constant drains are the 24v clock and the 12v 70amp transformer. I can shut off the transformer but usually don't, so it's powered all the time even if it isn't powering anything itself. Even if I don't start it for a week (so far) it fires up without difficulty. So yes, it has a draw but that draw hasn't yet been problematic.

I took that into consideration about forgetting to switch the relay (in y our case the key) When I flip the master switch to off it also switched the relay off. There is no way I will forget.

Oh a picture of my HMMWV with some stuff on the hood...