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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

rcamacho

Well-known member
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Location
Bainbridge Island Wa
Took the 1151 out for a spin to the local coffee shop this afternoon. Still makes me grin 😁 to drive it.

NATO plug adapter for the battery tender works great. Very convenient to top off the HMMWV and MEP batteries.

Replaced several injector return lines this evening. For some reason the German made line from Badger Diesel is not holding up on this truck. They have only lasted a few months to date despite being diesel rated.
 

Milcommoguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Rosamond, CA
Took the 1151 out for a spin to the local coffee shop this afternoon. Still makes me grin 😁 to drive it.

NATO plug adapter for the battery tender works great. Very convenient to top off the HMMWV and MEP batteries.

Replaced several injector return lines this evening. For some reason the German made line from Badger Diesel is not holding up on this truck. They have only lasted a few months to date despite being diesel rated.
RETURN of the RETURN LINES

Return lines headaches.

Here's the POOP from my experience on the fancy, green or black, no clips, slip on, with a woven outer jacket, general web sites kits or bulk lengths. At first this magic hose seemed to work... but I had my doubts, old school guy here, time will tell, give it a try ???

A couple of years and the leaks will show up as been my experience. The ends fray, hose splits at the injector barbs, seems to rot and the cabin fills with diesel fumes while it drips on the exhaust. This played out on a return trip camping. It is not the first time seeing this on rigs the boy's and I run. CUCV's and HMMWV.

I carefully cut the braid back to get a good look. It does fray and detaches near the ends. I never had an issues with the OEM and clips... even on 30 years old engines. Do it right or keep the fire extinguisher handy. YMMV... but I'am DONE with easy magic hose.

A little note: Make the loops a bit longer so when they do go to hell... cut off an inch and go another year or two.

Funny this came up, cuz just received 12 feet of viton and changed out all of the crap hoses on three rigs. YEA, the clips are a bit fussy to wrestle with, but not bad with the right tool.
IMG_0499.jpg


Close up of the ends. The weave is not well bonded to the hose and will separate. Here I peeled it back to expose cracking.
IMG_0496.jpg


AC Delco GM 14066305 hose and clips 1238007 for factory or DIY... McMaster-Carr, Viton hose 5119K41 $5 a ft and matching clips 25 pack 7329K31 $3 bucks. Double check those numbers. And you paid how much for a HMMWV ??

That's been my experience with easy ass hose.
Good stuff and Good for another 30 years. CAMO at Camoteksystems.

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Thunderbirds

Well-known member
286
415
63
Location
Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Found my right rear tie rod to be worn out while doing semiannual inspection. Ordered the both tie rod ends and started to take them apart this morning. Should have learned from the front that this type of maintenance is better done in a shop rather than in my home garage... However, the tie rod ends are universal for all HMMWVs, according to the TM, but the sleeve is not. I am thinking to replace the entire assembly instead of trying to get the ends out, which seems near impossible. Already slipped and planted the 24" breaker bar right above my left eye. Sure that will leave a mark. o_O

Now, doing more research in the Parts Manuals, the M1123 is not listed on the UOC listing of the radius rod sleeve (part#3), which is normally NNN. Is there anyone that can shed light on this for me? The current sleeve is 11" long...

Thanks in advance.

UOC.pngRadius Rod.png
 

Thunderbirds

Well-known member
286
415
63
Location
Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Found my right rear tie rod to be worn out while doing semiannual inspection. Ordered the both tie rod ends and started to take them apart this morning. Should have learned from the front that this type of maintenance is better done in a shop rather than in my home garage... However, the tie rod ends are universal for all HMMWVs, according to the TM, but the sleeve is not. I am thinking to replace the entire assembly instead of trying to get the ends out, which seems near impossible. Already slipped and planted the 24" breaker bar right above my left eye. Sure that will leave a mark. o_O

Now, doing more research in the Parts Manuals, the M1123 is not listed on the UOC listing of the radius rod sleeve (part#3), which is normally NNN. Is there anyone that can shed light on this for me? The current sleeve is 11" long...

Thanks in advance.
.

Further research showed that the models listed on the 2nd part are all the A2 models. IIRC the M1123 is considered a version of an A2. Can anyone confirm or am I on the wrong track?
 

Jinx

Buy me a Coke
Steel Soldiers Supporter
753
201
43
Location
Gainesville, FL
I took my M1114 out for it's first real drive, around 22 miles round trip. I started smelling unburned diesel fuel and the economy was terrible. Unfortunately it was late at night and I wasn't about to crawl under it in the dark, so it sat overnight. Today I've got to get under it and check for a diesel leak.

Also my M1114 is a truck now. I'm almost done Frankensteining parts from a M1123 on it.
 

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Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Olympia/WA
.

Further research showed that the models listed on the 2nd part are all the A2 models. IIRC the M1123 is considered a version of an A2. Can anyone confirm or am I on the wrong track?
Yes, M1123 is an A2 variant.
Closest A2 variant is the M1097A2, (BVY) which is the same truck with a rear bumper on it (both are the heavy variant A2 truck)

Taking a look at HummerPartsGuy's website, there's only one part number of radius rod assembly available, and no stock on it. The sleeve is available separately, but also has no stock.
 

Gcelevator

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA
Started removing all the wiring and accesories from the 1114 donor to transfer to the 1151 including the engine. It has been sitting long.wnough, today decided i had to get going on thos project. Chicken are also helping.
 

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Jinx

Buy me a Coke
Steel Soldiers Supporter
753
201
43
Location
Gainesville, FL
I took my M1114 out for it's first real drive, around 22 miles round trip. I started smelling unburned diesel fuel and the economy was terrible. Unfortunately it was late at night and I wasn't about to crawl under it in the dark, so it sat overnight. Today I've got to get under it and check for a diesel leak.

Also my M1114 is a truck now. I'm almost done Frankensteining parts from a M1123 on it.
A followup to this post, I've discovered it wasn't a diesel leak, but it was copious amounts of power steering fluid from the quick disconnect hose located at the radiator fan clutch. The fan conveniently sprayed the fluid all over the engine. :(
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Quantico VA
A followup to this post, I've discovered it wasn't a diesel leak, but it was copious amounts of power steering fluid from the quick disconnect hose located at the radiator fan clutch. The fan conveniently sprayed the fluid all over the engine. :(
Well, according to those 1980's G.I. Joe Public Service Announcements "Knowing is half the battle", so you've got that going for you.
BDGR
 

FlameRed

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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571
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Location
Florida
Today I tried fiberglass repair for the first time. The front driver's signal light was flopping around. Pass was fine. Took it off and the fiberglass hood was cracked all around the two mounting blots and the hole the wires go through.

What a miserable job! I must have gone through 6 pairs of gloves. Thankfully, MiracleWipes gets the resin off the tools and my hands without much fuss. Had to use longer 3/8 bolts to go through the reinforcement.

I admit, I did a crappy job, but it is a spot inside that light cover that no one sees!

I hope no more shaking lights! (y)
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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20,231
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Location
Charlotte NC
Today I tried fiberglass repair for the first time. The front driver's signal light was flopping around. Pass was fine. Took it off and the fiberglass hood was cracked all around the two mounting blots and the hole the wires go through.

What a miserable job! I must have gone through 6 pairs of gloves. Thankfully, MiracleWipes gets the resin off the tools and my hands without much fuss. Had to use longer 3/8 bolts to go through the reinforcement.

I admit, I did a crappy job, but it is a spot inside that light cover that no one sees!

I hope no more shaking lights! (y)
.
Yessir. Laying up fiberglass can be a real mess - and keep your tools away from it!
Good deal that you no longer have shaky lights...
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,335
614
113
Location
Quantico VA
I’m in process removing the IP for inspection and seal replacement. Valve covers as well..

Took a break from the less pleasant work to add adjustable waste gate controller. Well engineered piece. Looking 👀 forward to turning up the boost a tad when it’s all back together.

View attachment 940445
Folks seem to be experiencing varied results. Please let us know how your efforts turn out. I am still waiting to attempt it myself.
BDGR
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Brentwood, Calif
I’m in process removing the IP for inspection and seal replacement. Valve covers as well..

Took a break from the less pleasant work to add adjustable waste gate controller. Well engineered piece. Looking 👀 forward to turning up the boost a tad when it’s all back together.

View attachment 940445
If you pull a pump out…replace it, there is nothing gain by reinstalling an old injection pump, working or not, Murphy lives in all trucks, the seals you can’t get to like the front shaft seal also fail and will leak from the weep hole, the advance plunger is easy but the plungers rust.
 
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