jd-ford-hd
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- Manchester, TN
I searched this forum more than once for the best method to pull civilian trailers with 12 volt lights. Never came up with ideas other than dead-end links, LED bulbs, 24volt relays and voltage convertors. This is what I did to get 12 volts to my trailers. If this setup has been thought of and posted on here before, I apologize to the individual in advance. I have six trailers that will be pulled with my M818 from the fifth wheel. None of them are military trailers. I dont think anyone should utilize this just because I did, I am just showing a simple and inexpensive alternative that works. I used the original trailer slave cable as a sacrificial cable to supply the current the resistor board. A replacement can be easily plugged in if the need to pull a military trailer exists.
This is the resistor used, available at O'reilly's
Aluminum plate used for heat dissipation
Mounted to the rack
Old slave cable visible with new cable attached
For 12v pintle trailers a plug is added to rear fender mount
Check voltage with load applied
14.53 volts is close enough
Ammo can upside down to keep rain out keep air flow
Almost looks like part of the truck painted!
Three circuits plus ground are all that are needed for most trailers. Left turn, Right turn and marker/tail lights. Brake lights and turn signals are the same circuits.
This is the resistor used, available at O'reilly's
Aluminum plate used for heat dissipation
Mounted to the rack
Old slave cable visible with new cable attached
For 12v pintle trailers a plug is added to rear fender mount
Check voltage with load applied
14.53 volts is close enough
Ammo can upside down to keep rain out keep air flow
Almost looks like part of the truck painted!
Three circuits plus ground are all that are needed for most trailers. Left turn, Right turn and marker/tail lights. Brake lights and turn signals are the same circuits.
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