deuce winch rating

[Wild Horse Hans]

Just finished searching as I think I have something strange on my deuce. Everything I am seeing says the winch is a 10,000 lb Garwood. The winch on my deuce says 20,000 lb Garwood. The winch is an add on as the truck was not originally equipped with a winch.
Was there a 20,000 lb Garwood for the deuce?
Thanks

 

[doghead]

Gonna need a picture! Deuce winches are 10000#.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I think Massm35a2 grafted a 20,000# winch to his deuce. It could also be a data plate swapped on too. Pics will tell the story. The other exception and no body asked, is this a front or rear winch? M756A2 trucks have a 20,000# rear winch.

 

[Wild Horse Hans]

Here are some photos of the winch.

 

[doghead]

Well, thats a deuce winch(same as all mine).... Not sure about the ord #. Maybe wrong tag?

 

[avengeusa]

looks like a 10k to me also

 

[doghead]

That rating is at "bare drum"(maximum), I wonder if our tags are for full or half drum?

 

[Wild Horse Hans]

It has me a bit baffled as there is a painted stencil on the top passenger side of the winch that says CARC 11-90, same date as the rebuild tag.

 

[LanceRobson]

That's not the original data plate. The original would have been put on with the spiral rivets.

It's a 10K winch.

The rating of 10K specifies a bare drum, with at least 4 turns of cable to relieve stress on the set screw that locks the cable to the drum.

The rating drops as more layers are wound on due to the increased effective diameter of the winch drum lowering the torque available to pull each foot of cable.

It drops to only around 3.4K(?) with a full drum. The ratings by number of wraps are likely in the truck -10 TM. If not, I've got a copy of the winch TM in the shop and could look it up.

Lance

 

[mudguppy]

let me ask this (without hijacking the thread too horribly): what's the real rating of the winch? the reason i say "real rating" is because i was reading in one of the TM's (or maybe even PS mag) that the shear pin is there to limit the max pull to 10k because of the possibility of breaking the cable.

so, is the cable really the limiting factor? i spoke w/ one guy that indeed put a bolt in place of the pin and he did break the cable before the winch even grunted.

soooooooo - if one were to use heavier rated cable, then ...........

 

[Recovry4x4]

I would never run anything other that the correct shear pin no matter what Bubba's brother n law's neighbor does. I works fine as designed. Need more power? Stock up on snatch blocks.

 

[Jakelc15]

If the shear pin cannot shear because it has been replaced by a bolt, It WILL break the winch. This winch shouldn't be able to break the cable even with a snatch block. This of coarse being that everything is in new condition and who knows what was done to them before we got them.

 

[Earth]

we use the same cable on a log skidder and they have 20,000 pound winches. And in good condition they won't break. What these deuce winches need is a fairlead.

 

[LanceRobson]

I don't think you are hijacking the thread. The original question has been answered.

Unlike some unrealistic civilian non-industrial winch ratings, the GI winch ratings are pretty accurate. Take a look at a civilian "jeep" winch rated at 10K (without any industry or government safety standards, I might add) next to a 10K GI winch and you'll agree.

I wouldn't be surprised to find out that the limiting factor in the winch rating is the friction brake. It's got to hold the rated load if the shear pin breaks. It's a friction brake that wears and heats up when ever the winch is under power. As such, it seems to me to be the "weak link". You've got to keep it adjusted tight enough to hold the rated load but loose enough to not overheat. Kind of a damned if you do, damned if you don't kind of thing.

Your ultimate safety issue isn't in what you can pull, it's what you can control when the shear pin breaks and gravity is calling Murphey's name.

You could put a heavier cable on or replace the shear pin with a bolt but remember GI field equipment is designed so that an easy to replace expendable part, like a cable or shear pin, breaks before the hard to replace parts (like frame castings or soldiers) break.

Winch cables and shear pins will break under shock load easier than under constant tension. Being rough with the clutch pedal or hand throttle will break far more shear pins and cables than the load ever will.

Remembering that not much is worth dying for, I'd never modify a winch for anything less than a "life, limb or eyesight" emergency, which is the same standard used to launch a MEDEVAC flight and put it's crew at risk.

Lance

 

[mudguppy]

Recovery, it's just a question for conversation.

thanks for the useful info. in the future i'll be sure to not ask questions that you don't want to answer.

 

[mudguppy]

Lance', thanks for your thoughts and opinions.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Recovery, it's just a question for conversation.

thanks for the useful info. in the future i'll be sure to not ask questions that you don't want to answer.

Just trying to help. Hate to see anyone hurt trying what you asked, even if you had no intention to try it. No worries about asking questions, Didn't answer it because I couldn't but thanks for thinking that I could.

 

[pevrs114]

Wasn't there a picture on here of a winch that had the sheer pin replaced by a grade 8 bolt, that sheered the winch case housing instead?

 

[LanceRobson]

I seem to remember a thread with "two idiots" in the title, try a search?

Lance

 

[mudguppy]

... I wouldn't be surprised to find out that the limiting factor in the winch rating is the friction brake. It's got to hold the rated load if the shear pin breaks. It's a friction brake that wears and heats up when ever the winch is under power. As such, it seems to me to be the "weak link". You've got to keep it adjusted tight enough to hold the rated load but loose enough to not overheat. Kind of a damned if you do, damned if you don't kind of thing....

correct me if i'm wrong (which i probably am since i don't have my deuce yet and i haven't played w/ the winch in some time), but isn't the winch worm-gear driven? and as such, isn't the only bake in the winch a drag brake? a drag brake only slows the drum during free-spool so that the drum doesn't continue to unwind and "bird's nest"?

no?