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5kw or 10 kw- is one better than the other?

maddog

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Hello
I am looking at some MEP generators. Just wondering, aside from the size, is one any better than the other?
Are there specific problems with either?

Thanks and I enjoy all your steel stuff shown here:-D
 

BKubu

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This depends upon your need. Are you trying to power a house? How much power do you need? All things being equal, I'd rather have too much power than too little.
 

atankersdad

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Mike, here is a site that I use for researching, troubleshooting and just reading about the MEP generator family. It is kinda like this site with threads out there on every topic related to generators and antique engines. I have several of the 10KW models. 3 running and 3 yet to try, but all fired up with minor work. Like BKubu, I want power. The 10kw will peak at close to 20KW for short increments but will maintain 10kw of power till it dies. That is plenty for powering my house and well pump.

Antique Engines Antique Tractors Steam Engines and Old Iron
 

cranetruck

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Tickled by this thread, I decided to run the 10KW for a while.
It started and ran at a lower rpm in the beginning as if straining and then took off to governed speed. Judging from small pieces of paper towel flying around, there must have been a blockage somewhere (=mouse nest).
Need to clean all passages and air filter plus plug all openings after use in the future....

Mike, I think your question has been answered above, but you'll need a small crane for the 10KW unit at 950 lb or so.
 

Speddmon

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cranetruck the MEP-003a (the 10KW unit) weighs in at about 1200 dry.

maddog, I have two of the 10KW units and both run great. I have to agree with BKubu, more power is better. As long as it's one of these air cooled generators you're fine. If it was a liquid cooled set I would highly advise to get one closer to the requirements of your load. But air cooled you don't need to worry about wet stacking, so you can lightly load these without any ill effects. But with the 10KW you have more surge power to start heavier motor loads like house A/C units and such. My 10 will run the whole house, well pump and heat pump just fine, so I'm never without my air conditioning. Just my 2cents
 

washingtonmountains

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"Wet Stacking" I have heard the term, but what does it mean???

If it's going to be used for your house, when you start adding up kw's from the well pump, fridge, freezer, furnace, lights and don't forget the BOOB TUBE!!! I think the 10 K would be better, when a motor first starts it draws almost twice what it requires to run normal, even though it's just for a second it could raise havoc with a smaller unit.
 

maddog

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Thanks all for the help.
No more need to wonder if I should get a 5kw or a 10kw, I just bought 2 of them at the CA, San Bernardino, Barstow auction.

I am glad I scored a pair of them. I figure at least 1 should run.
Now I just have to wait 45 days.

:-D

Sorry, They are MEP 003a's.
 

Speddmon

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washingtonmountains said:
"Wet Stacking" I have heard the term, but what does it mean???
Wet Stacking is basically unburned diesel fuel gathering in your exhaust from a liquid cooled diesel not being run up to temperature and burning the fuel completely. If you have a large KW diesel generator and only lightly load it the engine doesn't really get up to the proper temp to burn the fuel properly. Google it, I think Wiki had a more in depth explanation of what it is and the effects of the condition.

washingtonmountains said:
If it's going to be used for your house, when you start adding up kw's from the well pump, fridge, freezer, furnace, lights and don't forget the BOOB TUBE!!! I think the 10 K would be better, when a motor first starts it draws almost twice what it requires to run normal, even though it's just for a second it could raise havoc with a smaller unit.
I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, but the general rule of thumb for motor starting loads is 6 times the FLA (Full Load Amps). I'm an industrial electrician, so I deal with this a lot. I just like for people to have the proper information.

maddog, you'll be happy with your purchases. Make sure you post pics for us when you finally get them home. And if you have any questions feel free to ask. The TM's are in the resources section about 5 pages into it. While you're waiting for the EUC to clear, read at least the -10 operators manual it will clear up a lot of operational things for you. Again, ask questions if you need to, it's better than massing something up.

If you do a search on the site, I know there is a few posts (some of them are mine) that have the civilian filter numbers and gasket numbers you'll need for servicing them.
 

Wrench Wench

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I didn't formerly realize that wet stacking was a problem particular only to liquid cooled diesel gensets. Why is that, and is there a way to operate the liquid cooling, and water pump, different radiator, radiator fan, etc., etc., that can ameliorate the wet stacking problem?
 

Speddmon

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AAAHHH, I thought we were talking about the 003a'a. That's what maddog bought anyway...sorry.
 

Speddmon

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Wrench Wench said:
I didn't formerly realize that wet stacking was a problem particular only to liquid cooled diesel gensets. Why is that, and is there a way to operate the liquid cooling, and water pump, different radiator, radiator fan, etc., etc., that can ameliorate the wet stacking problem?
You would have to talk to someone with way more experience than me, but the easiest way to fix the problem is to load it up about every hour or so for a little bit to make the engine heat up.

Check out the smokstak forum for some more information. Those guys specialize in engines particularly antiques.
 

Wrench Wench

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If the water pump is electric, then just use a coolant thermostat to insure that it has to get suitably heated up before the coolant will start flowing, and will only circulate fast/long enough to keep the thing from melting down. That should be enough to prevent wet stacking.

Of course, if it's a mechanical water pump, it'd require the addition of butt loads of additional plumbing (and I hate plumbing) to add a by-pass valve along with the thermostat.
 

Chief_919

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You would have to talk to someone with way more experience than me, but the easiest way to fix the problem is to load it up about every hour or so for a little bit to make the engine heat up.

Check out the smokstak forum for some more information. Those guys specialize in engines particularly antiques.

A few cheap electric space heaters make a great load bank for just that. 1500w space heaters are $20, 3 will load a 10k up enough to prevent wet stacking.
 

Speddmon

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Chief_919,

The 10KW units, at least the MEP series, are air cooled so they don't need the loading, but that is a good idea for the bigger units.
 

Chief_919

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Chief_919,

The 10KW units, at least the MEP series, are air cooled so they don't need the loading, but that is a good idea for the bigger units.
I have actually seen air cooled units wet stack when the outside temp is very low. It is a function of the cooling system being to efficient for the load presented, and that can happen with air cooled engines when it is cold enough outside.
 

Speddmon

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Chief,
That's good to know if I have to run the set in the dead of winter. Just how cold does it have to be though. For the most part in Ohio, we really don't see below 20 too often. It happens sometimes but not a lot in my area.
 
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