a new idea for a 12 volt system

[JmanX]

hey every one, FNG here just thought id say hi and throw an idea out there. iv been wanting a deuce for a while now but im still reading all the old threads first.
im a mechanic with an oil field service company who has a navy back ground. on a lot of our units we run 24 and 12 volt systems using an inverter. im not much of an electrican but while trouble shooting a problem on a frac pump the vioces in my head an i were wondering if anyone has tryed leaving the truck wired in "series" for 24 volt and also runing a sepreate fuse block wired in "parallel" for 12 volt. in theroy that should drain the batterys evenly. anyway just a thought. if you have tryed it or know if it would work, hit me back.

thanks jessie

ps sorry for the spelling the navy never tought us that

 

[Kohburn]

can't do it without isolating grounds at the very least so i don't think it's possible at all

my plan is to switch to 12v as my main power and use a charge controller to charge the 24v batteries for the stock system.

 

[mudguppy]

i'm drawing it out and staring at it trying to figure out where you'd need diodes...

i'm not sure how to do it and the batteries be charged equally. i keep coming up w/ diodes that will block the back feed but not allow both to charge under a 24V circuit.

i'm looking at this wrong...

 

[supermechanic]

I have a 12volt tap at the battery jumper, runs defrost fan.
I switch the batteries one for the other occasionally, this helps to keep things even.
Not an elegant fix, but it works.

 

[mudguppy]

i was planning on running a second alternator and running a 12 volt sub-system - it would be fairly easy and add a 3rd battery.

but then i found a 100amp equalizer on ebay for $200 - this is cheaper and easier than an alternator, battery, and new serpentine belt. plus it will out-perform a 100 amp 12 volt alternator at low rpms.

 

[juddspaintballs]

My most ideal setup would be a dual voltage alternator. I want to add AC eventually, so I don't think I want to add a 2nd alternator to save space.

 

[Westech]

why dont you just nstall a 24/12 volt alterator like used in the hummers. it has a 24V post and a 12V post. you just have to run a seprate battery for the 12V and your all set. no need for all that crap.

 

[Stalwart]

why dont you just nstall a 24/12 volt alterator like used in the hummers. it has a 24V post and a 12V post. you just have to run a seprate battery for the 12V and your all set. no need for all that crap.

Sure the HMMWV ones are only $2400 and $600 for the regulator.

 

[JmanX]

i might see if i can set up a test rig out of some extra batteries and what ever i can find here at the shop to use as a load. i would try it on a duece but im short a deuce for now. if i get anything to work with out blowing up, or leting all the smoke out of the wires ill put it out there to see what you guys think. with any luck it would be cheaper than buying equilisers and it would free up space under the hood by not needing a second alt.

PS were the heck is the spell check my msg window is bigger than my screen!

 

[mudguppy]

dude, if you're not using appropriately sized diodes you are going to short something out if you just start hooking up wires.

sketch it out first and i think you'll see what we're talking about.

 

[RAYZER]

it makes sence that if you tapped the batt thats not grounded to the frame for your 12v feed and run a ground from that batt to the appliances, you have to keep the appliances themselves from touching the frame (isolated ground ), for if they did they would have an instant 24v, if the 12v tap came off the batt that was grounded to the frame ,then the appliance could be grounded/touch to the frame and remain 12v, i have allways thought that if two batt were hooked up in series or parallel that if one disscharged from a load the other would follow/equalize ,like two containers of liquid joined together at the bottom by a hose, if you pull out of one the other comes down to the same level.

 

[Stalwart]

In parallel yes, series NO!

 

[johnsr]

u could alwas wire it up like my m1028 cucv. it has a 24/12 volt system. just a thought.

 

[JmanX]

im doing a few sketches first. but id rather test it in a test rig brfore i try it on a truck or any thing else, this way i can have safetys in place

 

[p3amea6]

Welcome to Steel Soldiers shipmate , and thier is no spell check so us exnavy guys just have to wing it.

 

[Westech]

Sure the HMMWV ones are only $2400 and $600 for the regulator.

I would like to sell you 100 of them at 1000 each if you think they cost 2400+ that shoudl be a good deal for you.

Dude.. a brand new one at a retail price is 500. I have even found them on ebay... Time to do some searching before placing foot in mouth.

Really if anyone wants one I can them cheaper then $500.

 

[wikallen]

seriously, these things work great. I have 3. One powers a coleman cooler even.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320553657301#ht_1721wt_1137

 

[gimpyrobb]

Those small ones are handy, but not as useful as a dedicated 12v system. I got a 24-12v converter that is rated at 30 amps AND can maintain a battery. Under $200.

 

[Stalwart]

I would like to sell you 100 of them at 1000 each if you think they cost 2400+ that shoudl be a good deal for you.

Dude.. a brand new one at a retail price is 500. I have even found them on ebay... Time to do some searching before placing foot in mouth.

Really if anyone wants one I can them cheaper then $500.

Show me, where is the link? I was quoting Kascar's price. No foot in mouth here, wise@$$.

 

[Stalwart]

I went with a new 100A battery equalizer for $200.