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Deuce Loading Ramps?

Darwin T

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Those are great ramps. I have seen a guy use an aluminum extension ladder (20 foot = 2 10 footers) with plywood on them, to load atv's. P.S. it wasn't me.:beer:
That's what I do, with all my trucks lol, normally that gets ya pretty close then 2 short sections of 2x6 will help take care of any gaps if your at weird angles lol
Or back into a ditch (that you can get out of)

Hold my beer and watch this!!! :beer:
 

John S-B

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Those are great ramps. I have seen a guy use an aluminum extension ladder (20 foot = 2 10 footers) with plywood on them, to load atv's. P.S. it wasn't me.:beer:
I was going to suggest something else, but thinking about it. using two 10 or 12' ladders with a 2x12 attached to all the rungs would probably be quite strong. I'd use conduit clamps, two per rung the entire lenth to attach the 2x12 (I'd use carriage bolts not screws). You could throw some paint on the wood and sprinkle sand on while the paint was still wet for traction. You could probably find a ladder on Epay or Craigslist fairly cheap. (I don't think I'd use fiberglass though) If you could find an old fire dept. ladder, that would be great as they are rated for more weight. You could easily rig up a hook or chains on the end to keep them from slipping off the bed or tailgate. That would probably be the cheapest solution.
 
980
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Dover, New Hampshire
Lund makes a set of 9' bi-fold ramps, That's what I use. The angle is not bad at all and they have a 1500 lb distributed load capacity. Also they are lightweight and fairly portable when loaded, very stable as well.
 

sierra117

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Location
Isanti, MN
I am making a set 14' ramps out 1"X1"X1/4" angle iron the 10' ramps I made out doubled up 2X10s did not work well while I was unloading my 800 pound 6X6 atv it slide off one side and rolled on it's side thank goodness it did not roll over completely the thing the size of a small car and they are kind of steep
I have to use the winch just to get it in the duece
 

treeguy

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Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Would it be safer to have the tailgate all the way down when ramping into a deuce? My concern is that all the weight is being held by the tailgate chains. And if the ramps are slid closer together, could someone fold the tailgate up like a taco?

BTW, G. those ramps are A++, very nice. Do you thru bolt the sections with the three holes after unfolding them, or is the 1/2" pin and hinge teeth enough for loading heavier toys?
 

blue302stang

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Flower Mound, Texas
We are planning to build a set of rolling ramps in the bed of the deuce, and than build a floor on the top of that. Ours will hold a jeep at the heaviest, so it will be nice to just drop the tailgate and have the ramps there and ready to go.
 

gringeltaube

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Would it be safer to have the tailgate all the way down when ramping into a deuce?
I would say so, and in most cases the 12' bed is enough to accomodate something like a Jeep or compact SUV and be able to remove the ramps after loading.
Otherwise I would not rely on the tailgate chains/ hooks to support anything over 1000 lbs.
First pic gives an idea of what was done for a heavier, longer-wheelbase vehicle. Also, the tailgate itself had been reinforced by replacing the original upper (brake-bent) edge with a 3x3x.125 inch square tube, similar to the one shown below. Much higher structural resistance and not really that much heavier.
BTW, G. those ramps are A++, very nice. Do you thru bolt the sections with the three holes after unfolding them, or is the 1/2" pin and hinge teeth enough for loading heavier toys?
Thanks. Good eye! Yes, those holes were made to hold both halves together and handle/ transport as one (by two persons). From where they are placed you can tell they were not intended for additional strenght.

G.
 

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treeguy

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I should have known better than to think you wouldn't reinforcing things! Those are great improvements, thanks for the pictures!




P.S. It may be wise to the next fabber to take note of such reinforcing prior to hitching ramps to their tailgate.
 
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plym49

Well-known member
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Location
TX USA
I want to build my own 12' footers, so advice on size of metal would be helpful
If you take a look at the 'ramp' link in the above post, you'll see that their heavy-duty ramps have one or more removable/adjustable supports in between. If you can include this in the design, your ramps see a lot less stress. It takes a stronger structure to handle a 12 foot span than a 6 or 4 foot span. An 800 lb ATV is not much of a load, so you should be able to come up with something that 1 person can easily handle.
 

Blackmagic94

Member
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Oro Valley/AZ
I was thinking a door hinge to a leg that is in the middle that should give enough support. 1.5x1.5" angle iron that is 3/16 thick at either 10 or 12' long with 12.375" width
 

tatra813

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Location
Washougal Wa
I used to load my full size utility style atv on the back of my duece with a couple 2x12x12foot long boards with those ramp ends you can bolt on to them, works just fine. I just stood next to my quad and powered it up , cheap and easy!
 

800summit

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Location
Soldotna, Alaska U.S.A.
I will give you the easy way that works for me.
get 4 4X4X10s and 2 2X12X10 at you lumber store. Place 2 of the 4X4s on both sides with the 2X12s on top. I do it all the time with ATVs and side by sides. with the boards being 10' long you can store then under the ATV and shut the tail gate. Remember to do this in dry weather, otherwise you will slide off the 2X12s.
 

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DUG

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I use 2 x 8s that are cut just an inch shorter than the bed. Then I beefed them up at Rat4Spd's suggestion with a 8 foot 2 x 4 centered underneath. I used some skinny stakes place across every 8 inches to make treads for traction. I drive the bigger ones up or winch them up with an ATV winch mounted on the forward bed wall. The ramps slide under the ATVs for storage to and from where ever we are going. Very cheap and strong. Had both of them made in 1/2 hour.

When I winch up I don't bother strapping the ramps into place, but when I ride up or down I use a couple ratchet straps to hold the ramps firm.
 
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