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Recovering an M101a2 from GL - what to take

wilfreeman

Active member
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Location
Richburg, SC
Alright, I will be going to recover an M101a2 from GL next week. What tools/equipment do I need to take? So far I've got:

Tie wire/zip ties
3/4" lug wrench (is this the right size?)
3/8" socket set
4 wire trailer wiring harness & towing light set (unopened) just in case
tire guage
brake fluid
 

Recovry4x4

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For recovering an empty trailer I would use the 3/8 bolt and lock out the brakes. Lug nut size is 7/8 not 3/4. Might be better off with a half inch socket set. Bring stuff to repack the bearings just in case. Bearings, tires and couplings are the critical stuff on a recovery. This might be the easiest recovery you can get.
 

swbradley1

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Or do like I do and just grab the lights, throw them in the truck and go get it. But, I'm only 13 miles from the place where I recover most of mine.

Take your paperwork just in case.
 

wilfreeman

Active member
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Location
Richburg, SC
Good stuff guys! I need more on locking out the brake b/c that sounds like what I need to do since it is empty and don't know it's condition. I downloaded a manual and read through alot of it but don't remember seeing that. I'll look again. I've got an air tank, but not a reliable small air compressor. Maybe a can of fix a flat. The tires were up on the pics, but I guess that doesn't mean anything. I've got my paperwork in the truck ready to go, I'll have to ask my wife where she puts her registration (it's her Expedition). The place I'm picking this one up used (15 yrs ago) to be wide open - the gates never closed and there were no guard houses. It is mainly a N/G training site on the back side of Ft. Jackson. Might have changed after 9/11 though. When I went to pick up something at Shaw AFB a few years back they did a very thourough inspection of the truck and my background. We'll see!
 

rosie

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Good luck, take a floor jack, and remember that some of those tires are rated to run at fairly low pressures
 

rosie

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Pittsboro, NC
Also another caveat: download pictures and make notes of identifying markings, serial numbers, etc. so you get the unit that you actually bid on. We've had the experience of going to pick one up and have the person at the site try to substitute another that didn't have the bows and cover like the one we won. We did, however, successfully locate and leave with the right one after a good talking-to and visual proof...don't let 'em bait and switch. It happens.
 

mistaken1

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Kansas City, KS
Those non-contact infrared thermometers are great for checking for hot bearings and sticking brake shoes.

Test your towing light set. Many people have reported them being wired backwards (bright filament on with taillights, brake/turn on the dimmer filament).

Some people cut and rewire the plug but I did not want to screw up the wire colors or expose the splices to the elements so I opened up the lights themselves and rewired there.
 
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rosie

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All important points. These units have been stored for who-knows-how-long under who-knows-what conditions, even before being relegated to auction. Buyer beware of course (but what a reward for the patient and prepared!!)
 

koolex11

New member
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Location
Topton PA
Don't forget chain extensions! Those chains aren't long enough for civy trucks, and sometimes the hooks don't slide into civy hitches. A lot of guys just hook them to the pintle plate (dumb) but why not just bring a some good hooks, some extra chains and a couple of 3/8" links? This is the #1 safety issue.

I wouldn't worry about brake fluid. An empty trailer isn't heavy enough to worry about stopping. 1300 lbs doesn't require brakes in any state I know.

Here goes. This will probably get you home safe:

Air compressor
Spare 8-lug tire
Jack with 15+" lift (or some boards to put under your truck's jack)
7/8" lug wrench
3/8x5" bolt with nut or farm hitch pin for locking out surge brake
Pintle hook
Chain extensions (12" on each side should do it)
Tool kit in case wheels don't spin
Small and large socket and wrench set
Pliers (if you want to take off the racks, they might have cotters)
Tow lights (test them)
Some rope
Grease
GL Invoice
Proof of Insurance
Vehicle Registration
Driver's License
Pictures of Lot from GL website
Food
Water
Advil
 
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wilfreeman

Active member
1,082
7
38
Location
Richburg, SC
Man, getting in depth here. I didn't know about the chains not reaching. I knew my M416 chains wouldn't reach, but figured a bigger trailer would have longer chains for some reason. How do I lock out the surge brake? I imagine some PB Blaster would be in order too - in case something's sticky. Maybe I'll take the back roads through a few small towns instead of the interstate to keep the speeds (and wheel bearing temps) down. And if something goes wrong I should be close to a Walmart or something.
 

koolex11

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Location
Topton PA
On the side of the actuator unit, behind the lunette is a hole that goes all the way through. It looks like it serves no purpose, and you are right, it is not mentioned in the manual as far as I can tell. That was a whole other fight on SS! Anyway, stick a pin in the hole and the actuator no longer moves back and forth.

Yes, in depth, but I wish I knew some of this stuff on my first recovery. Learning the hard way turned a 4 hour trip into an 8 hour trip!

Thanks again KsM715
 

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koolex11

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Topton PA
Terra, I didn't give that link because it turned into a bunch of ridiculous bickering. I just thought I would be helpful the way I wish others were. I've learned a lot since then.
 

AMMO 23

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Location
Boise Idaho
The last M101A2 trailer I recovered the brakes were locked up had to bleed the presure off then worked great. I would suggest bring wrench so you could bleed off and presure if brakes are locked.
 
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