Recent content by cstumpf750

Wow! That’s a lot worse than I thought it would be. Somehow the crankcase is getting pressurized. I’d do a cylinder compression and leak down test as a first step.

I stand corrected. I read the TM for this model and it does state the Dipstick is labeled for both off and running levels. ive just never seen a wet sump engine with a dipstick labeled for reading running oil levels, especially one this short. That’s what I get for assuming.

Oil is to be checked when the engine is nor running for obvious reasons, which you seem to have discovered.

Full load test successful. At least a short one. I warmed it up and progressively added load, letting it sit for a minute or so each time. 124% load. Only a tiny bit Smokey above 100%. I plan to do a long load test when it is hot out, but at this point I have good confidence in the reliability...

Another bit of information, this generator came from a batch that were reset and sold out of Chambersburg, PA. It’s a 1994 Libby MEP-803A with two hours on it. They seem to sell a lot of units like this at that location. According to the paper work the reset was done in 2013 and included a new...

I just did the math on the ammeter reading and the heaters are under rated. So I had an 8,280 watt load instead of 10,000 watts. I’ll report back after I get the third one.

I did a 1 hour load test with two 5kw 240v heaters I got from Amazon for $65 each. The thermostat is still working after it stuck closed on the first run. At the end of the hour, my oil pressure was 55psi on the gauge. With both heaters, I showed 76% load. An ammeter showed 34.5 amps per leg...

There are different temp thermostats. Mine currently seems to have the 190 degree version. I think 165 is a bit cool, especially for a diesel. Thanks for the cross reference.

So I got a couple of 5000 watt heaters off Amazon to load test my generator. I put one of it just to see how things went with a partial load. Well, it overheated in short order. I shut it down before it did it via the sensor. seemed like the thermostat never opened. I found a forum post where...

I would test the windings in the generator head. Sounds like you have a short in it that is blowing the rectifier diodes.

Here it is with the extended line and the pump attached with the strap clamp using the existing threaded inserts from the original pump.

So I had new piece of hard line made to reach the new pump After mounting it vertically like the original. measured the length with a piece of solid copper wire and went to a place that make hydraulic hoses and line and had them make me a new one. Cost $10. I’m gonna have to trim the perforated...

So the generator is operating 100%. Charging system works. 60psi oil pressure. Correct output at the lugs. I just need to sort out a mounting bracket for the new fuel pump. Thanks for everyone’s input to get me to this point.

Yeah, I wanted it that yesterday. I have the same strap mount, which will not work as the photo I posted shows. I might just make some new fittings to get closer to the original length. I have a lathe and a mill.

Forgot to mention, the pump I thought was available is discontinued. Ended up getting one at NAPA. Had them look up a 24 volt diesel electric fuel pump. Cost about $90 plus another $20 for fittings. Could have got a different unit for $70 if I was willing to wait a few days. Now I need to make a...