Recent content by Rekabnivek

My electrician (my dad with 40 yrs electrical experience) told me I need at minimum 22 KW, but 28 KW would be better. That is why I chose a 30KW.

If you are talking about the amount of fuel. That isn't a problem. I have access to off road diesel and a discounted price. I also have a 275 gal tank that goes on a trailer for procuring said fuel.

10kw peak, but the load would nearly kill the gen. That was just heat and well, not including the water heater. Our house is solely electric, no NG or propane for heat, cooking, or hot water. We regularly use 2 vintage ranges ( both electric) both pulling about 38-45 amps each. And that is just...

We were running a 10KW during an outage and had to shut off the heat for the well pump to run for showers. So I figured 30kw would be more than enough. I would be interested in what you have. PM me and we can talk.

Yes.

Yes runs great and output is 120v from L0 to and of the others and 208v between L1 L2, L2 L3, and L1 L3

I stand corrected, my apologies. Very much a newbie to the mil gens.

Just went out and had a look at the reconnecting board. Actually unbolted all 12 nuts tontrmove the board and there is no neutral buss between locations 10, 11, 12, and the far left nut which has a wire running to L0. What if anything does that tell anyone? Could this have been done when the...

Ok thanks. From what I gather the 002, 003, 004, and 005 are basically the same configuration just different in size. I may be wrong on this???

Ok I get moving to wires and not doing permanent damage to the neutral buss. Smart thinking If you find your notes please post the moves for me. Where should the AVR be connected in the zig zag? L1 and L3 since that is where I would connect the leads for the output to the transfer switch?

Yes I could use a boost transformer but that would be one more piece in the puzzle that I would have to keep up with. Triple Jim: I see you are from NC, small world I am in south central VA. I would love to contact you and pick you brain about these gens.

Yes I meant the reconnecting board. Intrigued in another way, but once I get this set on a concrete pad, I don't think I would ever really want to revert back to 3 ph. What would I need to look for the AVR source? Would the weird voltage readings be on the control vot meter or at the output...

I have downloaded the manual for the AVR, and am going to study it some. Guessing I still have to do the cut and jumper on the power board also.

Assuming this is the AVR. It is a McPherson Controls SS053. Just doing a quick spec search it shows voltage ranges from 180 to 265.

Yes looks like the 24v and one of the 120v fuses are bypassed. This is the way I got it. Not sure why they are bypassed???