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I went ahead and replaced the Park Conn III connector and added a segment of heat shrink, I than reassembled the fuse box and tightened everything back down. Inserted the fuses in their new locations and connected the batteries. Everything is functioning as it should, I am going to order the LMC...
Here is a pic of the backside of the fuse box, on the left hand side you can see the metal bridge that connects the Main light circuit 30a to Stop & tail lights circuit 10a. I was able to use a straight dental pic to straighten the wings on the PAC Conn III connectors. This allowed me to than...
The batteries are disconnected, one side of the main fuse has a broken contact and the plastic grove where the fuse sits is melted and prevents the fuse from sitting properly, my original plan was just to move the circuit to another location till I read Warthogs write up on the circuit that it...
Took some time today to try and mess with the fuse block, my original Hope was to relocate the main lights fuse to a empty socket, but after reading Warthogs thread on the lighting circuit it looks like one side of the main light fuse is a metal jumper going to the tail light fuse, not sure my...
I inspected the damaged area and saw that the metal retainer on the top left is also cracked, leading me to believe it will eventually fail applying pressure to the fuse. Can a new fuse box be spliced in? Do they make repair parts or would I have to find a donor box to repair the damaged metal
Discovered that the “Main light” 30 amp fuse slot had melted/ distorted in the past. The fuse will not fully go into the slot, I discovered the problem when I was driving and suddenly lost my driving lights . Is there a way to repair the slot? Carefully cut the plastic to allow the fuse to be...
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