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I will give you $220 and swing by and grab it on my next trip to grand rapids mi. I will even include a hug if you want. Im big and hairy so its like hugging a great big smelly teddy bear.
Oh no im quick to know and understand there are welders out there who will make me look like a fool and im fully certified all position all process. But im rusty on a few positions.
Well we have to entertain ourselves while we wait on you to make a move on your projects. Its not easy loving vicariously through such a busy guy like you.
Yes sir HardOx is not much fun but durable as all get out. I have never used it for joining material before, i wouldnt think it would work with a darn with how bad it shrinks like you stated. We used HardOx pads on large 992,993,994 wheel loader hi abrasion rock buckets. A 6" circle of that...
I run almost exclusively 7018. On that cracked dumper bed i used some stuff i cant remember its name off the too of my head but it is an X series rod has a red flux and hates moisture.
I have not welded structurally on 5 ton frames just hanging accessories like extra tanks and tore chain...
That crack was a nasty girl.
I would be interested to know what the hardened rating is on these trucks. I was hoping one of you fellas would know.
That crack was on a otr dump truck that had been through ell and back. Crack was 1/4" wide and by the time i found sound metal we were over...
Weld on chassis all the time. Just remember whats done on one side must be done on the other. Thats why this crack did not get fish plated, the other side of the frame was fine still. The truck dumped on heavy side sloap and fell over cracking the frame. Also was a double frame which we all know...
All about heat control sir...
to my knowledge (which isnt much) im under the impression the 5 ton frame is not high temper, at least not to the point of over the road trucks.
Id be curious to know what its make up is though if some one knows.
If it is hugh temper it CAN be done effectively...
Wait.... thats all the further you have gotten on this project?!?!?
You dont even have the motor and trans mounted yet for driving thr trailers axles.
i would say run a shart A into a 5x5 heavy wall tube into the pintel.
Not mine but in a full turn. Wish i had a video to show how those shafts dont bind in full turns.
Worste ive had happen was a steep hill up for tractor after coming down a steep hill so mower and tractor are in a V shape. Turned to tight tire caught the shaft and draw bar. No real damage just...
booooooo!!!! Why waste your time making just another trailer? When you can make it overly complex and difficult to service but still have the most awesomeness of trailers rolling around.
Just think you blow your ring and pinnion in those wimpy 5 ton rockwells in the middle of brown bear...
If you are running a shaft off the rear axle drive flange why would you have rpm issues? Maybe im thinking wrong but the shaft speed would be on the money to run to the trailers acxles that would have the same gearing, so its no differnet than just adding a couple axles to the oroginal trucks...
Im thinkin you being a hydraulic loving fella. Why not run quick connects on the back of the truck and run hydraulic motor hooked to the shaft on the trailer. How one would find the proper rpm and get it to mesh with the trucks is beyond me. Thats fur yous smurt fellers.
or you know. Just run...
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