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I just used plain old Gilliespie paint on my block and the only part of it that got any type of heat fade was the stat housing, I know your not using Gilliespie but my point is you really don't need to use high heat paint on the block and running gear..just saying to save you some extra $ and work.
Or instead of buying a generic VR you could buy a custom made one from Triple Jim :o
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?141621-AC-and-DC-Regulators-for-the-MEP-002A-and-MEP-003A
Yes as mentioned in my thread I ran it for 48hrs during a power outage from a ice storm that came through in Feb, 2014. Since than I hooked up a 50amp RV box to the barn breaker box ( which has 100amp service from house ) to which I will back feed through during next outage. Funny this thread...
My son looked at this pic of your R-140 and now thinks I should sell my deuce ( something I'd never thought I'd hear him say ) and go look for one of those LOL
Try setting your float lower, the ETW1 is rated for 4 1/4psi fuel pressure, I've run it as high as 6.5psi with no difference. When you had the float out did you shake it to see/hear if gas might have leaked past the soldered seams and into it ( as mentioned earlier ).
Just a FYI
Everyone seems to be quoting HP from the civilian 230 manuals.
As per TM 9-1840A the rated Brake horsepower for the 230ci in the M-37/T-245 is 94hp @ 3200rpm, compression ratio is 6.7 to 1.
Also T-245 is the factory sales symbol for the whole truck not just the engine.
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