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Good catch & good point. Got to get the correct connector end - socket or pin.

I’m a purist but what someone does with their vehicle is their business. That said; WOW! What a fantastic job! You both should be very proud!!!!

Also, before you get too far in to this; will the seller come to you to check it out? They said “it worked when we had it”. Will they warranty anything?

TM’s can be a real snooze fest! Plus, I forgot to check to see if those TM’s actually covered the power generation components.

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/MEP04A/TM9-6115-464-24P.pdf

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/MEP04A/TM9-6115-464-34.pdf

Do you have this manual? http://www.jatonkam35s.com/MEP04A/TM9-6115-464-12.pdf

Can you post pictures of the panels? Have you checked circuit breakers?

That curtain is a hard curtain - not a synthetic piece be that can be rolled up?

The rod for the foot pedal or the cable for the idle adjustment / idle set?

Are you going to make the jumper? First I’ve seen this - but I didn’t have to play around with that much. I haven’t thought about why the rag joint needs a jumper - but off the cuff it seems a bit odd to me since the steering column should be bolted to the chassis and the chassis is connected...

This might not be the only seller.

I never saw anyone run a “multi fuel” on straight MOGAS. Because the diesel would turn to gel in Germany we would add alcohol to keep it thinned out. Sometimes we might dump 5 to 10 gallons of MOGAS in the M60A1 (A2 & A3) tanks or other tracked vehicles.

The fuel pumps are electric and shut off when the master power is turned off.

There is a guy in Texas, Bret Fox. Don’t know where he is in relation to you though. He has a “Motor Pool” and is very knowledgeable; but, I don’t know if he works on anyone else’s stuff. Let’s start with the basics: 1) Does it have plenty of cranking power? 2) Fuel level? 3) Tried priming...

I believe many interior aircraft lights came with red, green, or blue filters or you could “blackout” the white light. Those could be aircraft interior lights but not used where any light would be seen from a door or window.

Go to page 139; Section 10-70. https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/uploadedFiles/FRP/New_-_Local_Capacity_Building/TM-9-2320-280-20-3%20Maintenance%20Manual%20M998%20Series%20HMMWV%20Vol%203.pdf

Look at the base of the blade arm where it attaches to the motor or linkage at the windshield. There’s more likely a little catch that you need to rotate away or push down / pull up.

I started by bleeding the master cylinder then the hydrovac then moved to the furthest wheel cylinder away to bleed to each wheel. You don’t necessarily need air pressure built up. Whoever you get to pump the brakes make sure they are patient and go slow & steady. Pumping up the brakes only...