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transmission relay is on the accessory panal behind the battery box…

your paranoia will destroy ya…this is a non-issue.

I always use RF’s….the rim requires it, regardless of what anyone says.

I run 40-45 PSI all the way around….

I don’t think so, the early PS brackets had a long bolt, they alway broke, and were bent to boot….irregardless, the stud on the exhaust is a piss poor design, it was redesigned and I no longer see the support arm failures.

the problem is it’s a high vibration and high stress component, add to that the grade 8 bolt is harder than the cast iron block, the biggest issue is over torquing the bolts. I’ve drilled many broken bolts in the last month, even had to helicoil a couple.

Use correct OEM bolts and locktite, also make it a PMCS check item…

you have to ground the small ground jumper on the front left screw or it won’t work…the solenoid moves the fuel cutoff armatur, you should be able to move it yourself with almost no effort and it will spring back, absolutely any resistance and your truck will not start.

That’s the correct pad…

DOT 5 is used because it does not absorb water….military has used DOT 5 BFS forever. If the 2 get mixed, which they do often….just flush it out, at that time, just figure out if you want DOT3/4 or DOT 5. this is no different than the changing over PS Fluid from ATF to a true PS fluid….is that...

94 is A1

Hydraulic winch could only be a Milemarker, it uses its own mount.

It’s pretty straightforward, it’s just a little radiator inside, I had this happen on my m1152, I looped the glycol lines and called it a day. the diff cooler is overkill

that was a “unit level produced” item, it’s in the parts TM in the back of the book.

H1’s has one piece steel wheels…they were junky and had out of round issues.

99% of the time a stuck hmmwv is due to operator error…

i do believe that SSI box is a single component box, meaning it uses no TSU or GPC in the water crossover . they are garbage…toss it in the garbag.

I prefer not to try and use the “Carnac” method of figuring out what someone bought off eBay….a simple picture of the component would help, the OEM unit has the part number on it.

sure, go for it…..the 20mins you save not removing the hood will add an additional couple hours I suspect.

check all bolts on all pulleys, ive seen the fan blade lightly strike the tensioner mouning bolt, I’ve also just had a fan blade hitting the fan clutch hose because the quick disconnect wasn’t plugged into the fan clutch, each time it hit it, it moved out of the way…till it struck it again.