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I'm sticking with the factory duals on the front of mine...............?

INDIANA! Permanent registration. One time $12 payment. No plate required.

Okay, I understand the need to eliminate the water. And I have no doubt that boiling the water off works well. But I still think just pumping the oil through a water separator is faster, easier & cheaper.

I still don't understand going to all the trouble of heating the WMO. I've filtered several hundred gallons without heating (or thinning) it first.

My Racor water-separator filter has a clear plastic segment on the bottom & you can see the water level in it. I open the drain as necessary. I filtered about 30 gallons of mixed WMO from various sources yesterday & found about 1 ounce of water. Obviously these containers were stored indoors or...

For me, gravity was just way too slow. I make simple adapter plugs that I can clamp the bags onto, glue a piece of pipe into them, then run a piece of cheap sump-pump hose from my barrel to the filter. I maintain just enough pressure to keep the filter bags "filled out, so no danger of rupturing...

Tricky the first time. No need to remove airpack.

Around here it's free, but it may not always be worth the trouble from some places. I've gotten barrels that were 1/3 mud, water, & sludge. It takes an awful lot of filtering. Guys will dump ANY liquid in there, including anti freeze. I let those sit for a year without moving, pump out the top...

I'd like to replace the cartridge-type fuel filter with a spin-on, on my M813 with Cummins. Can anyone advise a good filter head & filter setup? Thanks, Eric

And please remember 28 volts can do a lot of damage if you short a hot lead to something. Disconnect the battery first!

I don't believe there is any difference other than the extra "patch" that the winch lever rubs against. If it's really that tight, I wonder if you have an odd radiator guard?

I did a fair amount of research before I started filtering WMO. Steel & plastic barrels are SUPPOSED to be able to withstand up to 10 psi internal pressure. I never exceed 2 psi when filtering through filter bags & run about 5 psi when pushing through a final water separator filter & into the...

Well, I originally learned that from my buddy Rod who worked in a Marine Corps parts room for a while in the '60s. Learned more about it when we got parts from Russ Jones (RIP). The quote came from the "Jeeps Unlimited" website.

Okay, to clarify: The engine was BUILT by Wisconsin. "Possibly one of the most hi-tech Jeeps ever built, the Mighty Mite remains a little known enigma. The story of the M-422 is one that tends to be full of typical governmental red tape, over spending and poor planning on the part of many of...

RodUSMC1962 drove Mighty Mites in the Marine Corps & currently has two that he brings to parades in our area. Mite is mostly aluminum, has a V-4 Wisconsin engine. Very cool machines, but tricky to work on.

I use 100, 20, & 1 micron when I have time. If in a hurry I might use just the 1 micron & replace it after 100 gallons. That's less than a dollar a gallon. If I use all three filters, average cost per gallon is about 20 cents.

If I had to choose just one, I'd keep a Deuce. But I sure love driving the M813A1!

My M813 came with 4-10 bolt & 2- 20 bolt wheels. I got the "O" rings from Memphis Equipment.

I've never heated the oil (or diluted it) before filtering. Of course I do my filtering in the summer. No problems using "bag" filters.

Does anyone know who CURRENTLY sells the GI pins? Or PM me if you have a set to sell. Thanks, Eric