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I want to say that the pickup is a hall effects type which requires power and ground (not sure if 5v or 12v) which then pulses a signal line on and off. You will need a matching tach that accepts it or get a Dakota box to convert it. I'm pretty sure that is how it works off the top of my head as...

I'm not sure if this is in English???

I always find the "6.2 is a converted gas engine" conversation amusing. My brain immediately goes, "you suck at math, can't recognize that 5.7 and 6.2 don't match, and I'm stabbing you in the head inside of my head right now".

I would limp it to the nearest WalMart or similar parking lot or a back road. This is an easy fix. The only thing I could see going wrong is your batteries if they are weak won't survive bleeding.

All of those 80's diesel engines are pretty close in power and reliability. I would probably lean towards the 7.3 (I guess it would have been Navistar branding at the time) in terms of best light duty diesels. Keep in mind that the Cummins is not in the same class at all. The 7.3 is still a...

Thats actually a really nice Stanadyne Fuel Manager (FM100) series filter. Could also be the knock off Napa version...same stuff. I would reseal it, bleed it, and run it. May as well change the filter as well.

Watch the movie Gung Ho...classic flick from the 80's. You'll like it, Japanese car company manufacturing in old Detroit plant. Ribbons of Shame! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ykk5Zoll46Y

OEM all the way...yeah maybe if it was made in Japan where if it fails, they cut the engineers hand off for designing it that way...

Yikes Let's not start a holy war over glow plug preferences. There are advantages to different setups, each person has their reasons to run it a certain way. I think the OP should be informed, perform his own due diligence, and take it from there. I'm not sure this subject matter is something...

I would bet you have a faulty blower resistor block which is pretty common. The blower switch would be my next guess.

You really don't have to. Dial it into to about 18" of vacuum at closed throttle then road test it. You can tweak it from there. It isn't rocket science and the gas engines don't even have that adjustment because it is manifold vacuum.

Ruling out any internal issues, you are going to boil it down to a problem with the vacuum signal (pump, throttle valve, lines, modulator) or your governor valve sticking/malfunctioning. You should get a nice steady source from that vacuum pump so I think you found the problem. Just to be sure...

Agreed Only the lucky MV owners have the luxury of having a spare 24v vehicle to jumpstart a dead one! Worst case is just install 24v HMMWV glow plugs, bypass the card, and install a manual pushbutton if you are so worried about it. I would rather modify the system that way than risk running...

I agree, a 12v GP being fed 24v will probably not like that too much. This is just another case where any new CUCV owner should either be checking for a resistor bypass or doing the mod themselves. Unless you are trying to stay 100% original and actually plan on jumpstarting your dead Cuck with...

The linkage should only rotate from P to 1 and back again, at no time should it ever actually move the shaft it is attached to back and forth in the transmission casing. That would be technically axial play. Now if you installed the shift arm backwards (not sure if that is even possible) maybe...

Being that the GMD60 is a complete bolt in minus brake lines, I would wait for it. Only advantage of using a non-GM axle would be a 79 Ford F350 hi pinion king pin axle.

I remember installing mine the procedure called for a very small amount of torque in inch pounds. I would recommend following that as I'm sure some engineer spent some time figuring out that number. I put mine on a nice industrial timer that I purchased from a big box hardware store. Three...

I think realistically if the linkage is not the issue, expect at minimum a replacement valvebody or the manual valve. You can drop the pan and see how it works, pretty straightforward stuff. Not sure why it would fail, not exactly a heavy wear prone piece nor does it have much going on to it for...

Does your parking brake work? If so, you could always just set it, climb under the truck and manually move the trans lever on the side of the case. Be aware your truck has no Soldier A behind the wheel and Soldier B is laying under a potentially moving vehicle...FYI. Another way would be to...