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This is one of the few times I would say this but you need to pass on this one. I might give 500 for it just for the spare parts. Its a undesirable truck. Sprag transfer case, no heat, busted bed, rusty cab, questionable mechanical condition. Been sitting 10 years so your looking at a couple...
i think jesusgatos ( i think thats right) was talking about someone using a Half-spring setup. He said it was fairly common for four-wheeling back in the day but isnt done so much anymore. It looked to me like the stock spring was setup but was cut down the middle for a half-stock hybrid system?
i bought one last week that im getting delivered here once the euc clears. Maybe yours can piggy back with mine. im about halfway between you and ive used this guy before hauling military equipment. He might cut you a deal picking two up at the same place. Hes charging me about 75 cents a mile.
ahh the ever elusive m101 trailer and generator trailer sans generator. A very hot commodity on GL they must only sell 5 to 10 thousand of these things every year.
I have never seen the military using pinzgauers but who knows the way things are all mixed up now. Maybe the the Brits are doing...
:grd: would like to see how much a difference bring the fuel back to something manageable makes. If full blown is great what is something more reliable. It cant be that much less.
I did something similar with a m101 i had. I was using it so much with my civilian vehicles i went ahead and mounted a set on. I saw walmart had a set of LED trailer lights and I was thinking about wiring them into the bullet connectors as a replacement and wiring a 4 pin connector to the stock...
From what i remember the main issue was keeping the engine from overheating. The last guy who i read about doing it put in airducts (think home heating airducts)along the vents on the hood to increase airflow. he had electric fans and oversized radiator also. your going to have problems...
wow a couple of turns?
you know we call these motors "come aparts" and "self disassembling" for a reason.
military vehicles arent known for having tons of power on the high end and you have one that pulls hills in overdrive?..... at 55 mph no less. This probably isnt a good idea but its...
good purchases on both i think i was bidding on one of them earlier and am glad to see it went to a list member. I have extra keys here i would bring an extra starter relay and a bosch relay for the altenator with you just in case. I think you can get both for less than 20 dollars at any parts...
yeah i guess you could mount the keyed ignition above the push button where the circuit is broken until the key is in the on position when you are then able to push the ignition button. You would be just adding a keyed circuit breaker into the stock ignition circuit
okay it appears that the red wire from the front battery is going directly to the starter. In that configuaration the starter has been changed to 12v which in itself isnt a problem. The same modification is mentioned in the FAQ thread in the CUCV forum. Im familiar with about half what is done...
if you go to harbor freight and get the 2" ball/pintel combo mount (35 dollars)it will mount in the same holes used to mount the military pintel hitch perfectly. No drilling required.
did you check the connections? the CUCV'c have tons of wiring and just the moving of everything around changing the battery could have loosened a connection to the point its loosing contact somewhere.
you need to read the TM and troubleshoot. Check the output on the back of the altenator and see if your getting 12v or 24v? Methinks something is fishy in your wiring. I would start chasing down where the hotwire for the starter is going also and check it with a 24v capable testlight also. This...
does turning at speed have any effect. If it is an alignment issue or possible bearing the change in load may change things enough to give you an idea where things are coming from. Im sorry but ive never had anything happen that was similar, what i posted above is what i would check in any other...
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