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My M1038 has the glow plugs on a push button instead of coming on with the key. I am trying to figure out how long I need to hold the button for them to warm up? Also wondering if all models of HMMWV glow plugs are the same? Mine has the flat connector where the wire plugs onto them but I see...

Did you get it figured out? If not I can go take my handle off and look for you.

I am looking to replace my windshield glass and was wondering if there is any size difference between the military HMMWV glass and the civilian H1 glass? I know the ballistic and bulletproof glass will be thicker but I am curious about the standard glass. My M1038 has the original windshield...

Looking forward to following your build. I am getting ready to do a 700r4 with a 241C. Everyone keeps saying it won’t hold up but I have personally seen them handle 750hp rock crawlers and 1000hp drag cars. Most of them were only mildly built.

Built 700r4 and a 241c transfer case is the way to go. Fully mechanical with no need to change drive shafts, crossmembers or anything. People say the 700r4 is junk but there are a million drag racers putting 1000hp to them with a mid level build. Way cheaper and easier than the 4l80 and no...

Drove my Humvee from Hyannis to Denver and back yesterday to go get a H2 for the wife. Started at a field elevation of 3,700 ft and went up to 5,500 ft, 300 miles each direction at 55 to 60 (58 is its favorite place to run). I filled up three times and used a total of 52 gallons of fuel. I...

In my experience it doesn’t matter if you drive flat to the floor or baby it around, loaded or empty, pulling or not it gets 10 to 11 mpg. I have a 6.2 with the 3 speed and that’s what I get no matter what I do. If you don’t want to read the TM’s (BORING!!!!!) just use google. Any questions you...

I think the adhesive should hold in summer heat. I had the shop heater a little to close to the door and it was a little to hot to touch on the outside so just out of curiosity I pulled on the foam on the inside and it was stuck hard! I think as long as you start with a good clean warm surface...

There is a detailed step by step on steel soldiers with pics. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=698713&d=1505014747

When I get my plugs for the flasher box and signal lever I will post some pics of how all wiring runs and how it ties into everything. Having trouble finding the plug for the flasher box. Also going to tear apart a 3 lever Light Switch and try to fix it.

Also need to add that you need to have your body panels warm. I had a Val6 blasting from the outside and space heaters inside and blankets on the roof to hold the heat. First night I didn’t get the roof warm enough and it didn’t stick in a few spots.

Last night I got my insulation installed on the ceiling and doors. The aluminum doors and top sucked up a ton of heat. I used 1/4 closed cell foam with Mylar on both sides. It was $70 for 100sq ft (25x4) way cheaper than dynomat and does the exact same thing. I was amazed how much it reduced...

Finally won the battle. Don’t have turns hooked up yet but I have EVERYTHING else including all BO lights.

Anyone know of any places in western Nebraska with surplus or scrap HMMWV parts? Pretty close to NE Colorado and SE Wyoming and western South Dakota so any info on stuff in those areas would be great.

Thanks. It was in ford when I got it. Hopefully hasn’t been run in that position much. Now time to start tracking them all down and seeing if they are hooked up. I did notice the cap on the power steering is just a standard cap so that will need replaced. I think everything else is still hooked up.

Hey everyone first question I have is about the lever by my right knee. Does the long part of the handle indicate what position it’s in or does the little point on the opposite side point to what position you are in and the long part just a handle? Also where do the lines all go? I know they go...

My 1038 had airlift rear bumpers on the front and back. It made it look like it sat low till I chopped the front down to 44” long. The back looks a little low but still looks good I think.

In the last couple weeks I have done quite a bit to my M1038. The hardest part was wiring. I had to completely build and replace the main wiring harness coming into the cab. After lot of wire chasing I have lights and everything else in the cab works again. Got all my heater controls unstuck...

I am positive it’s the switch. I tested it coming out of the 3 lever switch before the turn signal switch. I also tested it with a multimeter. Checked for Ohms and there is no connection. Also took a jumper wire and plugged into terminal C on the connector with 24v and the brake lights come on...

Finally have it all wired back together right and everything working. Well...almost everything. I need to get a new light switch because terminal C that sends power from the light switch when you hit the brake to the turn signal is dead. Doesn’t matter what position you have the levers in. I...