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Not yet. With the help of another guy near me that knows the transmissions pretty well we were able to troubleshoot it being a mechanical issue likely a stuck valve in the valve body. I'm waiting to get into a heavy diesel guy near me because messing with the valve body is a bit above my pay...
I'm pretty sure I've narrowed my issue down to a valve body issue, not overheating. The gauge wasn't giving me the right temp. Adjusting the modulator didn't help and removing the solinoid connections didn't do anything either.
Hey, what was your transmission doing that caused you to want to tear down the valve body? I think I've narrowed down an issue upshifting way too early to the valve body.
Good thing to check out. Do you happen to have the TM chapter of the adjustment off the top of your head?
The power fade 100% feels like just because of it being in way too high of a gear.
Ok, so I measured the temps of everything now that I know the IR gun works.
At start up the gauge reads 150 and the pan, tranny cooler, engine block and radiator reads 100.
After driving around a bit I got the gauge to read 270 before the loss of power. I pulled over integrally and the...
Awesome, thanks man! I'll verify my IR gun today. If the gun is reading right and the gauge is showing 275 but the gun is showing 170 at the pan and transmission case, could the temp sending unit being bad cause the transmission to shift early like it seems to be doing?
Gotcha, I'll see if I can put a test port on there. What do I put on that test port to measure the pressure? I know if I crack the sample valve on the oil cooler it sprays oil like 10 feet, but I can see what you're saying about pressure being different at idle and driving.
When I pull off, I usually let it idle for 5-10 minutes until the temp is 225 and then I'll shut it off and wait for it to cool down. Usually 35-45 minutes will get me back down to 150 ish and I can get going for a few more miles.
Are you referring to the water pump pressure to circulate the...
I might have it, I'll check and see if it's in the trash still. What would I be looking for?
When I let things cool down everything works as it should until the temp goes up over 250. I'm not losing gears, I can feel it shifting through them, but when it gets hot it shifts through them way...
I'm at my wits end chasing this down. Any help or suggestions would be welcomed.
I drove my M925A2 home back in May. 330 miles went off without a hitch, but with 30 left the transmission was getting up around 275 on the gauge and it was shifting way early, bogging the engine and doing the...
The coolant hoses are silicone and the coolant sure seems to be able to flow both to the overflow tank and from the radiator. That makes me think it's a flow issue in the oil line from the tranny to the cooler or back from the cooler to the tranny. I saw that valve and hoped it might lead me...
I stop and let it cool down if it gets over 250. The one time I let it get much higher than that I had no speed even on flat ground. That was on my ride home after picking it up. I changed the oil, filter, and pan filter since then and haven't let it get that hot again. It had 15w40 in it and...
I had some transmission cooling issues and I thought the transmission oil cooler might be plugged so I removed the coolant lines from the radiator side and it seems to flow coolant from the surge tank out no issues. The radiator seems to be flowing out to it no issues either and the engine...
Thanks, I've read a bunch of the threads on tranny oil and I saw a ton of different options. Looks like everyone mainly keeps whatever is currently in there. I didn't see anyone try 40w though. I'm going to be doing a full fluids/filters change on my new truck. My plan is to use 15w40 but my...
So I was looking at the Allison manual for the MT654 and unless I'm missing something it looks like SAE 40w oil is approved for the tranny if the ambient temp is 50° F or higher. Has anyone done this?
As I'm down in FL I'd think it would be a good heat sink and not get too thin too fast, but...
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